B3 


ROSES 


The  Rambler  hybrids  are  unsurpassed  for  house  or  pillar  decoration. 
This  is  the  Dawson,  with  bright  pink  flowers,  produced  in  June 


\  \ 


ROSES 

AND  HOW  TO  GROW  THEM 

A  Manual  for  Growing  Roses  in  the 
Garden  and  Under  Glass 


ILLUSTRATED 


NEW  YORK 

Doubleday,  Page  &  Company 
1910 


Copyright,  1901,  1902,  1903,  1904,  1905,  by 

Doubleday,  Page  &  Company 

Published,  June,  1905 


All  rights  reserved, 

including  that  of  translation  Into  foreign  languages , 
including  the  Scandinavian. 


PREFACE 

ALL  that  is  really  necessary  for  the  amateur 
rose  grower  to  know  in  order  that  he  may 
intelligently  make  a  rose  garden,  select  his 
varieties  and  grow  the  harvest  of  bloom,  is 
told  in  this  volume.  Many  books  on  the 
rose  are  more  bulky,  but  the  additional  matter 
is  not  of  an  essential  character.  In  this 
volume  everything  not  directly  to  the  point 
of  practical  rose  growing  for  the  American 
amateur  is  omitted. 

The  writings  of  several  expert  amateur 
rosarians  which  have  appeared  in  The  Garden 
Magazine  and  Country  Life  in  America,  have 
been  drawn  upon  freely  in  the  preparation  of 
the  text;  notably  articles  by  Dr.  Robert  Huey 
and  Mr.  Aaron  Ward  for  the  outdoor  culti- 
vation. Mr.  Leonard  Barron  provides  the 
chapters  on  " Roses  for  Special  Purposes"  and 
"  Roses  Under  Glass  "  — excepting  the  section 
dealing  with  American  Beauties,  which  is  by 
Mr.  Henry  Hentz,  Jr. 
v 

268964 


VI  PREFACE 

Acknowledgments  are  due  to  Prof.  B.  M. 
Watson  for  information  on  propagation;  and 
to  Professor  Slingerland  for  information  on 
insect  pests;  Prof.  Byron  D.  Halsted  is 
quoted  on  fungous  diseases.  Suggestions 
have  also  been  received  from  Mr.  L.  B.  Craw 
and  from  Mr.  J.  A.  Payne,  in  regard  to 
greenhouse  construction,  and  from  Mr. 
George  H.  Peterson  in  regard  to  the  applica- 
tion of  natural  and  artificial  fertilizers. 


CONTENTS 

CHAPTER  PAGE 

I.  When,  Where,  and  How  to  Plant  3 

II.  The  Routine  of  Work    .  22 

III.  Pruning 35 

IV.  Insects,  Diseases,  and  Spraying     .         .  47 
V.  The  Rosarian's  Calendar       ...  69 

VI.    Roses  for  Cut  Flowers  Under  Glass      .       72 

VII.     Types  and  Races no 

VIII.     Roses  for  Special  Purposes    .         .         .124 

IX.     Roses  of  American  Origin     .         .         -165 

Index     .        .        .        .        .        .        -179 


vii 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS 

A  Rambler  Rose  for  House  Decoration      Frontispiece 

FACING  PAGE 

How  To  Make  a  Rose  Bed       .        .        .        .  4 
Four  First-class  Garden  Roses          .        .        .11 

Two  of  the  Best  Hybrid  Tea  Roses                     .  18 

Killed   by  a   Sucker 27 

A  Low-budded  Plant 29 

A  High-budded  Plant 32 

How  to  Plant  and  Prune         ....  34 

Spring  Pruning  for  Quantity  of  Bloom       .        .  43 

Pruning  Rosa  Rugosa 45 

Beating  the  Commoner  Insect  Pests         .        .  48 

Portraits  of  Favourite  Roses       ....  50 

Reine  Marie  Antoinette  as  a  Trellis  Rose        .  59 

Standard  Roses  in  a  Famous  Garden       .        .  61 

Lord  Penzance  Hybrid  Sweetbriers      ...  64 

A  Close  View  of  the  Altai  Rose     ....  66 
How   Tender   Roses   Flourish   in   the   Warmer 

States 71 

A  Hybrid  Tea  Rose  as  Grown  Under  Glass      .  86 

A  Modern  Even-span  Rose  House      ...  93 

A  Modern  Three-quarter-span  Rose  House        .  96 


X  LIST    OF    ILLUSTRATIONS 

Spraying  Roses  Under  Glass  for  Red  Spider  .  107 
The  Best  Rose  for  Hedges  and  Seaside  .  .114 
A  Nearly  Single  Form  of  the  Provence  Rose  .  121 
Rosa  Blanda  in  Shrubbery  Foreground  .  .132 
An  Ideal  Rose  Bed  for  Flowers,  and  One  of  the 

Best  H.  P.'s        .- 135 

The  Altai  Rose  in  Shrubbery  Plantings  .  .  141 
The  Only  Type  of  Rose  Fit  for  a  Lawn  .  .  144 

Two  Most  Popular  Roses 150 

The  Prairie  Roses  for  Covering  Tree  Trunks      .     155 

Roses  Grown  as  Vines 162 

A  Garden  of  Roses  and  Herbaceous  Plants  .  173 
Rosa  Setigera  in  the  Wild  Garden  .  .  .176 
Pruning  Diagrams  .  .  .  Pages  36,  37,  40,  41 


ROSES 


ROSES 

CHAPTER    I 
WHEN,   WHERE   AND   How  TO   PLANT 

The  site — Best  exposure — Making  the  best  of  other  con- 
ditions— Why  low  ground  is  to  be  avoided — The  soil 
— Must  be  well  drained — Preparation  of  the  soil — 
Manure — Laying  out  the  beds — Preparing  to  plant 
on  a  lawn — Soils  for  different  groups — Treatment  of 
newly  arrived  plants — Spring  planting  best — How  to 
plant  —  Budded  or  own-root  plants  —  Planting  from 
pots. 

THE  ideal  site  for  a  rose  garden  is  airy  but 
sheltered  (especially  from  the  biting  winds  of 
winter),  open  to  the  sun  some  part  of  the  day, 
quite  free  from  the  influence  of  large  or 
growing  trees,  and  preferably  a  little  above 
the  general  level  of  the  rest  of  the  garden.  It 
must  not  be  the  lowest  spot.  A  southern 
exposure  is  desirable,  and,  if  it  is  necessary  to 
make  a  choice,  the  morning  sun  is  best. 
Partial  shade  will  do  less  harm  to  dark-red 
roses  than  to  roses  of  other  colours.  Some 


ROSES 


protection  from  high  winds  is  good,  but  not 
at  the  cost  of  having  a  close,  stuffy  location. 

The  beginner  in  rose  growing  will  do  well 
to  weigh  carefully  the  advantages  and  disad- 
vantages of  available  sites.  The  soil  may  be 
poor  and  unsuitable.  We  can  change  that 
by  taking  away  the  present  soil  and  filling  in 
with  soil  from  the  meadow.  Drainage  and 
shelter  can  be  provided,  but  if  an  error  has 
been  made  in  the  site,  all  these  accessories 
will  avail  little. 

Low  grounds  are  more  subject  to  late  spring 
frosts  than  adjacent  places  only  a  few  feet 
higher,  and  late  spring  frosts  are  much  to  be 
dreaded  after  the  tender  shoots  of  the  rose 
bushes  have  put  forth.  While  shelter  from 
high  winds  is  very  desirable,  it  must  not  be 
secured  by  trees  whose  roots  can  reach  the 
beds.  The  roots  of  growing  trees  may  be 
regarded  as  spreading  from  the  trunk  for  at 
least  a  distance  equal  to  the  height  of  the  tree. 
Thus  if  a  tree  is  sixty  feet  high  the  rose  bed 
should  be  at  least  that  distance  away;  if 
nearer,  the  tree  roots  will  revel  in  the  enriched 
soil  of  the  bed  and  appropriate  the  food 
needed  for  the  roses.  If  the  bed  must  be 
made  nearer  than  this  it  may  be  protected 


TO   MAKE  A  ROSE   BED 

Dig  three  feet  deep;  throw  away  the  bad  soil;  put  in  broken  bricks  or 
stones  for  drainage;  then  some  inverted  sods;  then  alternate  layers  of  well- 
rotted  manure  and  loam;  finally  a  foot  of  loam.  When  planting  spread  the 
roots  and  work  the  soil  thoroughly 


WHEN,  WHERE  AND   HOW  TO  PLANT         5 

from  encroachment  of  the  tree  root  by  sinking 
a  four-and-one-half-inch  brick  wall  below  the 
bottom  of  the  bed  and  building  up  to  near  the 
surface.  But  this  is  troublesome  and  expen- 
sive. A  fence  of  hemlock  plank  will  do  well 
for  some  years,  but  the  roots  will  eventually 
find  their  way  through. 

It  is  not  to  be  inferred  that  roses  will  grow 
only  under  these  ideal  conditions.  Reason- 
ably good  plants  and  blooms  can  be  attained 
in  much  less  favorable  situations.  Many 
village  gardens  containing  only  a  few  feet  of 
ground,  and  shaded  for  at  least  half  of  the 
day,  yield  flowers  that  are  a  delight  to  the 
growers  and  their  friends;  but  happy  is  he 
who  has  the  opportunity  of  selecting  the  best 
place  for  a  rose  garden  and  does  it. 

THE    SOIL   AND    WHEN   TO    PREPARE    IT 

The  best  soil  is  a  deep  loam.  Well-drained 
ground  is  essential  and  the  site  should  never 
before  have  been  used  for  roses,  unless  fresh 
earth  is  substituted  for  the  old. 

Roses  abhor  wet  feet,  and  if  the  soiLis^wet 
it  must  be  thoroughly  drained.  This  can 
usually  be  accomplished  by  digging  out  the 
bed  to  a  depth  of  three  feet  and  filling  in  one 


O  ROSES 

foot  with  broken  stone,  bricks,  cinders,  gravel, 
or  anything  that  will  permit  a  free  passage 
of  water. 

If  this  is  not  sufficient  and  the  water  is  not 
carried  away  quickly,  provision  must  be  made 
for  this  by  tile  draining,  but  except  in  very 
extreme  cases,  the  drainage  before  mentioned 
will  be  sufficient. 

At  least  three  months  before  planting— to 
allow  time  for  settling — the  soil  for  the  beds 
should  be  dug  to  the  depth  of  two  feet  and 
liberally  enriched  with  well-rotted  manure; 
preferably  with  cow  manure,  though  horse 
manure  is  good. 

MAKING    BEDS 

The  size  which  the  beds  shall  be  made  is 
governed  by  the  certain  considerations  of 
convenience  in  after  years.  All  the  bushes 
must  be  readily  reached  without  leaving  the 
walks;  the  surface  of  the  beds  must  be  access- 
ible in  every  part  for  frequent  cultivation,  and 
the  expense  and  labour  of  cultivating  unneces- 
sary space  should  be  avoided. 

With  the  exception  of  the  climbers  and  the 
Rugosas  (which  ought  not  to  be  planted  in 
the  beds  at  all),  a  space  of  twenty-one  inches 


WHEN,  WHERE   AND   HOW  TO   PLANT         J 

from  plant  to  plant  is  sufficient  to  meet  the 
above  requirements.  Accordingly  rose  gar- 
dens are  usually  laid  out  in  parallelograms  of 
any  length,  but  with  the  width  limited  to  five 
feet.  Such  a  bed  should  contain  three  paral- 
lel rows,  twenty-one  inches  apart,  the  outer 
rows  twelve  inches  from  the  edge.  The  paths 
between  beds  should  be  not  less  than  five  feet 
in  width,  to  admit  of  the  passage  of  the  water 
barrel.  If  more  space  is  available,  this  width 
of  path,  as  well  as  the  space  between  the 
individual  plants,  could  be  increased  to 
advantage.  The  paths  look  best  if  in  grass, 
but  well-rolled  cinder  paths  are  good  and 
save  troublesome  weeding.  They  are  the 
best  for  wet  weather. 

Beds  for  Hybrid  Perpetuals  made  with  a 
width  of  four  feet  will  usually  be  found  most 
satisfactory,  as  a  double  row  can  be  planted 
at  intervals  of  two  and  a  half  feet,  which  will 
be  sufficient  space  for  the  strongest-growing 
varieties,  and  the  beds  can  be  worked  and 
the  blooms  gathered  without  the  necessity  of 
trampling  the  soil. 

Space  may  be  economised  by  setting  the 
plants  not  directly  but  diagonally  opposite 
each  other.  They  will  then  be  one  foot  from 


8  ROSES 

the  edge  and  thirty  inches  apart,  and  each 
plant  will  be  fully  exposed  to  the  light  and 
air  and  will  not  interfere  with  its  neighbours. 
For  Teas  and  Hybrid  Teas  the  width  of 
the  bed  may  profitably  be  reduced  to  even 
three  feet.  The  plants  can  be  set  eight 
inches  from  the  edge  and  two  feet  apart, 
which  will  be  ample  space. 

MAKING   A   BED   ON   THE    LAWN 

In  preparing  a  bed  on  a  lawn  the  sod  and 
soil  should  first  be  entirely  removed  and 
placed  apart.  The  best  of  the  subsoil  should 
then  be  taken  out  and  placed  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  trench,  and  finally  the  portion  to 
be  discarded,  making  in  all  a  depth  of  at  least 
two  feet.  The  floor  should  be  loosened  up 
to  the  full  depth  of  a  pick-head,  the  good  sub- 
soil replaced  and  mixed  with  a  generous 
dressing  of  well-decomposed  manure  (prefer- 
ably that  from  a  cow  stable).  Lastly  the  sod 
should  be  well  broken  up  and  the  top  soil  also 
thoroughly  enriched  with  manure,  and  the 
bed  filled  with  good  unmanured  top  soil  to 
about  two  or  three  inches  above  the  adjoining 
surface,  enough  good  soil  being  added  to 


WHEN,   WHERE   AND    HOW  TO   PLANT         9 

replace  the  discarded  earth.  When  the  bed 
has  settled,  the  surface  should  be  one  inch 
below  that  of  the  adjoining  sod,  in  order  that 
all  rainfall  be  retained.  It  is  a  grave  error  to 
make  a  rose  bed  higher  than  the  adjacent  sur- 
face, as  in  hot  weather  the  soil  dries  out  and 
the  plants  suffer  for  want  of  moisture.  If 
possible,  the  bed  should  be  made  several 
weeks  in  advance  of  planting,  to  allow  time 
for  settling. 

SPECIAL    SOILS    TO    BE    PROVIDED 

The  different  classes  of  roses  have  different 
soil  requirements,  and  wherever  the  best 
flowers  are  sought  the  beds  should  be  prepared 
each  for  one  class  rather  than  mixing  all 
classes  indiscriminately.  The  Hybrid  Per- 
petuals  require  a  heavy  soil  containing  some 
clay — what  is  known  as  a  heavy  loam  answers 
admirably — and  if  this  can  be  obtained  from 
an  old  pasture  where  the  growth  has  been 
luxuriant,  nothing  could  be  better.  The  top 
spit  should  be  taken  with  the  grass  roots  and 
chopped  into  very  small  pieces,  care  being 
taken  to  bury  the  grass  roots  several  inches 
deep  to  prevent  the  possibility  of  growth.  We 
want  the  humus  they  contain  for  the  roses. 


IO  ROSES 

For  Teas,  Hybrid  Teas,  Noisettes  and 
Bourbons  a  lighter,  warmer  soil  is  desirable. 
Three-fourths  of  the  compost  already  de- 
scribed, into  which  about  one-fourth  of  sand 
and  leaf-mould  has  been  thoroughly  mixed, 
will  be  found  entirely  satisfactory.  It  is 
important  to  remember  that  all  the  manure 
should  be  incorporated  with  the  lower  two- 
thirds  of  the  soil.  The  upper  third  should 
not  contain  any  recently  added  manure,  as 
this  will  rot  the  roots  of  the  new  plants,  which 
should  be  covered  with  fine,  friable  soil. 
When  growth  begins  the  roots  attract  the  rich 
moisture  from  beneath  and  appropriate  it  as 
it  reaches  them,  without  any  danger  of  the 
roots  being  burned  by  fermenting  manure 

The  beds  or  borders  may  be  edged  with 
either  stone,  terra-cotta,  cement  coping,  or 
planted  with  a  border  of  some  close-growing 
herbaceous  plants,  such  as  funkia  or  some 
varieties  of  lychnis  or  dianthus.  But  still  bet- 
ter, for  edging  rose  borders  and  other  flower 
beds  in  permanent  flower  gardens,  is  the  old- 
fashioned  boxwood.  The  stone  edge,  or 
anything  related  to  it,  will  be  avoided  by  the 
artistic  gardener.  The  beds  being  prepared, 
we  are  ready  for  the  planting. 


KILLARNEY 


SUZANNE  MARIE  DE  RHODO- 
CANACHI 

The  best  Hybrid  Tea  rose.     Blooms  large,         Qne  of  ^  b^  HybHd  Tga  roses>     Deep 

pale  pink,  shaded  deeper  French  pink>  a  unique  colour 


ETIENNE   LEVET  ULRICH  BRUNNER 

H.  P.     Fine  carmine  red,  large  and  of  good        The  most  satisfactory  H.  P.  Cherry  crimson, 
form,  but  a  shy  bloomer  large  size,  develops  all  blooms  well 

FOUR  FIRST-CLASS   GARDEN  ROSES 


WHEN,  WHERE   AND   HOW  TO   PLANT       II 
WHEN   TO    PLANT 

Hybrid  Perpetuals  and  Rugosas  may  be 
planted  in  early  November,  and  one  need  not 
hesitate  to  plant  most  of  the  Hybrid  Teas  and 
the  hardier  Teas  at  the  same  time  if  prepared 
to  protect  them  properly  after  the  first  frost. 
But,  as  a  rule,  spring  planting  of  roses  gives 
the  most  satisfactory  results  in  the  end.  The 
Hybrid  Perpetuals  and  Rugosas  should  be 
planted  just  as  soon  as  the  soil  is  in  suitable 
condition  and  the  frost  out  of  the  ground, 
usually  about  March  25th  in  the  vicinity  of 
New  York.  All  others  are  best  planted  after 
April  2Oth,  when  the  danger  of  sharp  frosts 
is  past. 

HANDLING    NEWLY   ARRIVED    PLANTS 

If  the  plants  arrive  in  a  shrivelled  con- 
dition, soak  them  thoroughly  in  water  and 
bury  them  completely  in  a  trench,  again 
soaking  them  with  water.  Uncover  after 
three  days  and  they  will  usually  be  found 
revived.  If  the  plants  arrive  in  wet  weather, 
or  when  the  ground  is  frozen,  do  not  open  the 
box,  but  place  it  in  a  barn  or  other  dry  place 
where  there  is  no  artificial  heat.  Cover  it 
with  matting  or  blankets  if  the  weather  is  cold. 


12  ROSES 

When  the  weather  is  dry  and  conditions  fit  for 
planting,  unpack  the  roses  in  a  place  sheltered 
from  the  wind  and  sun.  From  this  time  on 
it  is  absolutely  necessary  to  avoid  undue 
exposure  of  the  roots.  In  sorting  out  the 
varieties  while  still  under  cover,  use  old  mats 
or  straw  to  keep  the  roots  covered. 

With  the  tender  varieties,  dormant  planting 
out  of  doors  is  attended  with  much  risk 
because  of  the  inability  of  these  plants  to 
endure  our  rigorous  winters  before  becoming 
established.  Consequently,  they  need  much 
more  protection  than  the  hardy  sorts.  Where 
the  thermometer  reaches  15°  below  zero  it  is 
better  to  defer  planting  until  the  early  spring, 
provided  the  plants  can  be  safely  housed 
during  the  winter.  This  can  be  done  by 
digging  a  P^  about  fifteen  inches  in  depth 
in  a  dry,  cold  cellar  or  outhouse  and  packing 
the  dormant  plants  in  it,  covering  roots  and 
tops  with  fine  earth.  After  one  good  soaking 
with  water  they  may  be  safely  left  until  early 
spring  unless  they  become  very  dry,  in  which 
case  they  may  be  watered  again.  After  the 
plants  become  firmly  established,  which  will 
be  in  one  season,  there  is  much  less  likelihood 
of  their  being  injured  by  the  cold. 


WHEN,  WHERE   AND   HOW  TO   PLANT       13 

Tender  roses,  planted  on  or  about  April 
2Oth,  may  have  thrown  over  them  a  few  loose 
handfuls  of  old  hay,  or  other  light  covering, 
to  protect  from  possible  late  frosts  and 
from  the  glare  of  the  sun.  After  about  ten 
days  this  shelter  may  be  removed.  The  hardy 
roses  do  not  need  even  this. 


HOW   TO    PLANT 

It  is  best  to  unpack  the  plants  under  the 
cover  of  some  convenient  shed,  and  to  take 
to  the  beds,  at  one  time,  no  more  than  can 
be  properly  protected  nearby  or  promptly 
planted.  During  this  move  some  people 
protect  the  roots  by  dipping  them  in  mud; 
others  carry  the  plants  about  in  pails  with  the 
roots  immersed  in  water.  All  these  precau- 
tions are  taken  to  avoid  the  immediate  and 
very  harmful  drying  action  of  the  sun,  and 
especially  of  the  wind,  upon  the  fibrous  roots 
of  the  plants.  Hence  the  first  rule  for  plant- 
ing is  to  wait  for  dry  soil  and  to  select,  if  pos- 
sible, a  calm,  cloudy  day. 

Too  deep  and  too  shallow  planting  are 
equally  damaging;  the  first  is  certain  to  kill 
the  plant  by  rotting  the  stem,  and  the  second 


14  ROSES 

leads  to  spindly,  unsatisfactory  growth,  be- 
sides exposing  the  roots  to  serious  strain  in 
high  winds,  which  dry  out  the  soil  to  a  remark- 
able degree.  The  success  of  Mr.  Prince  in 
England  with  shallow  planting  should  not 
govern  us  in  the  climate  of  America,  where 
the  trials  of  the  winter  are  more  rigorous. 
Moreover,  in  the  case  of  budded  stock, 
deep  planting  has  this  added  advantage,  that 
the  upper  part  will  develop  roots  of  its  own 
and  in  time  become  independent  of  the  stock 
which  carried  it. 

The  planting  can  be  done  by  one  person, 
but  two  working  together  will  accomplish 
relatively  much  more  and  do  better  work; 
one  holding  the  plant  and  the  other  filling  in. 
In  planting  a  long  row,  it  will  save  time  to 
trench  out  the  site  with  a  wheel  hoe  to  a 
depth  slightly  greater  than  is  required. 
Measure  off  and  stake  out  the  rose  places, 
plant,  and  fill  in. 

BUDDED    VS.    OWN-ROOT    PLANTS 

Garden  roses  can  be  obtained  from  the  deal- 
ers grown  in  two  ways,  either  on  their  own 
roots  or  budded  on  the  Manetti  or  brier  stock. 


WHEN,  WHERE  AND   HOW  TO   PLANT      15 

There  is  some  difference  of  opinion  as  to  the 
relative  values  of  "budded"  and  "own-root" 
roses.  The  advocates  of  the  latter  declare 
that  the  wild  wood  will  sooner  or  later  choke 
and  kill  the  budded  growth.  This  point  is 
well  taken  if  we  admit  the  necessity  of  per- 
mitting the  wild  growth  to  develop,  but  if 
planting  has  been  correctly  done  wild  wood 
rarely  breaks  out.  If  it  does,  as  it  happens 
in  exceptional  cases,  it  can  be  easily  dis- 
tinguished and  readily  removed.  The  Man- 
etti  suckers  nearly  always  push  up  outside 
of  the  plant  and  are  covered  with  minute 
prickly  spines.  Suckers  of  the  brier  stock 
bear  seven  serrated  leaves  instead  of  the  usual 
number  of  five,  and  so  are  easily  identified. 
If  a  shoot  is  suspected  of  being  wild,  positive 
proof  is  easy  to  get.  Remove  the  earth  care- 
fully, and  follow  the  shoot  down  to  the  point 
of  union  with  the  rest  of  the  plant;  if  this  is 
below  the  bud,  the  shoot  is  a  sucker  and  must 
be  removed.  Cut  it  off  close  and  rub  the 
wound  with  a  little  moist  earth.  Perhaps 
i  per  cent,  of  the  roses  in  a  well-cared-for 
garden  will  push  out  wild  wood  in  a  year, 
but  in  a  badly  tended  garden  a  much  greater 
proportion  will  appear — the  result  of  too 


l6  ROSES 

shallow  planting.  This  is  probably  the  only 
valid  objection  that  can  be  urged  against 
budded  roses. 

The  most  experienced  amateurs,  as  exem- 
plified by  Dr.  Huey,  put  their  faith  in  budded 
roses,  in  whose  favour  much  can  be  said. 
They  are  much  more  vigorous,  produce  finer 
blooms,  come  into  bearing  sooner,  and  last 
just  as  long,  if  not  longer.  Budded  roses 
give  a  fair  amount  of  bloom  the  first  season 
after  planting,  and  each  subsequent  year 
adds  to  their  vigour  and  beauty.  Dr.  Huey 
in  1887  made  a  bed  of  budded  roses,  and 
eighteen  years  after  he  reported  in  Country 
Life  in  America  (March,  1905)  that  four  had 
died,  the  others  being  still  vigorous  and 
healthy,  although  the  soil  had  not  been 
changed.  Adjoining  this  bed,  twenty-four 
strong  own-root  plants  of  Ulrich  Brunner 
were  planted  ten  years  later,  and  at  the  time 
of  the  report,  nine  of  them  had  died,  while  of 
the  twelve  budded  Brunners  immediately 
adjacent  all  were  still  flourishing.  From 
this  it  is  reasonable  to  infer  that  budded  roses 
are  at  least  as  hardy  as  those  grown  on  their 
own  roots. 

It  must  be  admitted,  however,  that  some 


WHEN,  WHERE  AND  HOW  TO  PLANT      IJ 

of  the  stronger-growing  varieties  do  very 
well  on  their  own  roots,  notably  Ulrich  Brun- 
ner,  Magna  Charta  and  Caroline  Testout, 
but  many  fine  varieties  are  utterly  worthless 
unless  budded,  such  as  Viscountess  Folkes- 
stone  and  Reine  Marie  Henriette. 

There  is  a  question  as  to  which  stock  is 
most  suited  to  our  hot,  dry  climate.  So  far 
the  Manetti  has  proven  the  best  for  most 
varieties,  and  the  Messrs.  Dickson  bud  most 
of  their  plants  for  export  to  America  on  this 
stock. 

The  English  growers  favour  the  brier,  and 
the  great  majority  of  roses  budded  in  England 
are  grown  on  this  stock.  This  is  quite  right 
and  proper  for  the  moist,  temperate  English 
climate,  but  not  so  suitable  for  ours.  It  is 
very  probable  that  the  best  stock  for  our  use 
has  not  yet  been  introduced,  and  equally 
probable  that  when  found  it  will  be  a  seedling 
of  Crimson  Rambler.  The  hardiness  and 
great  vigour  of  this  variety,  which  does  well 
almost  everywhere,  commend  it  highly. 

The  budded  plants  grown  in  Europe  are 
taken  up  as  soon  as  the  wood  is  ripened  in  the 
autumn  and  shipped  to  us  in  the  dormant 
state  in  time  for  planting  before  the  ground 


l8  ROSES 

is  frozen.  They  are  usually  received  in  such 
excellent  condition  that  rarely  one  in  a  hun- 
dred of  the  hardy  sorts  fails  to  make  good 
growth  and  a  fair  bloom  in  the  following 
season. 

PLANTING    BUDDED    ROSES 

Before  planting,  each  plant  should  be 
examined,  all  broken  roots  cut  off  cleanly 
with  a  sharp  knife,  and  all  eyes  that  can  be 
detected  on  the  stock — i.  e.,  the  portion  below 
the  bud — should  be  removed.  If  this  is  not 
done,  the  eyes  will  push  out  and  suckers  will 
develop  from  them.  One  difference  in  ap- 
pearance between  a  sucker  and  a  root  is  this: 
the  sucker  swells  the  farther  it  is  from  the 
stem,  and  the  root  tapers  the  farther  it  is  from 
the  stem. 

A  hole  large  enough  to  accommodate  all 
its  roots  without  crowding  should  be  made 
for  each  plant.  The  collar  or  point  where 
the  bud  was  inserted  and  from  which  the  new 
growth  starts  should  be  placed  not  less  than 
two  inches  nor  more  than  three  inches  below 
the  surface  of  the  soil,  the  roots  spread  out 
carefully,  nearly  horizontally,  but  inclining 
downward,  taking  care  that  no  two  roots 


WHEN,  WHERE   AND   HOW  TO   PLANT       IQ 

cross  each  other  on  the  same  level.  If  two 
have  grown  so  that  one  must  lie  above  the 
other,  the  earth  must  be  carefully  packed 
between;  all  the  roots  having  been  covered 
with  fine  soil  free  from  fresh  manure,  the  hole 
should  be  almost  filled  up  and  the  soil  firmly 
packed.  This  is  very  important,  and  the 
foot  of  a  man  of  ordinary  weight  is  not  too 
heavy  to  accomplish  the  work  well.  Water 
the  roots  freely,  and  when  the  water  is  ab- 
sorbed fill  up  to  the  bed  level,  and  see  that 
the  union  of  the  stock  is  where  it  belongs, 
two  inches  below  the  surface. 

When  all  the  plants  have  been  placed,  level 
the  surface  with  a  rake,  cover  with  a  top- 
dressing  of  about  three  inches  of  rough 
manure,  and  if  planting  is  done  in  autumn, 
cut  the  long  wood  back  to  about  one  foot  to 
prevent  the  plant  being  whipped  and  loosened 
by  high  winds.  This  extra  wood  is  left  to 
encourage  root  action,  and  should  be  cut 
back  to  two  or  three  eyes  as  soon  as  the 
dormant  eyes  begin  to  show  in  the  spring. 

PLANTING  ROSES  FROM  POTS 

Several  American  dealers  start  a  large 
number  of  imported  budded  plants  in  pots 


2O  ROSES 

for  sale  in  the  spring,  thus  obviating  with  the 
tender  varieties  the  damage  of  winter  killing. 

An  objection  to  this  is  the  crowding  of  the 
large  roots  that  cannot  be  spread  out  in  plant- 
ing without  endangering  the  life  of  the  plant, 
but  good  plants  may  be  obtained  in  this  way, 
although  the  bloom  is  not  so  fine  nor  the 
growth  so  strong  during  the  first  year.  In 
setting  out  pot-grown  plants,  either  budded 
or  on  their  own  roots,  it  is  important  to  get 
them  into  the  beds  as  soon  as  all  danger  of 
seyere  frost  is  over,  in  order  that  the  plants 
may  be  firmly  established  before  the  heat  of 
summer.  Roses  planted  late  in  the  season 
never  do  well,  as  they  cannot  attain  sufficient 
vigour  to  withstand  the  burning  heat  of  our 
summer  sun. 

The  holes  need  only  be  made  a  little  larger 
than  the  pot  in  which  the  plant  is  grow- 
ing. Choose  a  cloudy  day,  in  the  afternoon, 
and  after  making  the  hole,  knock  the  pot 
off  by  inverting  the  plant  and  striking  the 
edge  sharply  on  a  firm  substance.  The 
handle  of  a  spade,  which  has  been  fixed  in 
the  ground  in  an  upright  position,  will  answer 
the  purpose.  Fill  the  hole  with  water,  press 
the  ball  of  earth  between  the  hands  to  loosen 


WHEN,  WHERE   AND   HOW  TO   PLANT      21 

the  particles,  and  insert  to  the  required 
depth,  budded  plants  as  previously  directed, 
and  own-root  plants  about  half  an  inch  deeper 
than  when  in  the  pot.  Fill  in  with  soil  and 
pack  the  earth  around  firmly.  Pot-grown 
plants  will  require  staking  if  the  varieties  are 
of  upright  growth. 


CHAPTER  II 
THE  ROUTINE  OF  WORK 

Cultivation  in  spring — Suckers  and  how  to  know  them — 
Feeding — How  to  cut — Advantages  of  disbudding — 
The  summer  mulch — Making  snug  for  winter — Fer- 
tilisers and  manure — Propagation. 

THE  beds  once  properly  made  and  planted, 
constant  and  regular  cultivation  is  the  se- 
cret of  successful  rose  culture.  Just  before 
growth  begins  in  the  spring  (about  April  I5th 
in  New  York),  the  surplus  rough  manure 
should  be  removed  from  the  beds,  and  all  the 
remaining  fine  particles  forked  in.  Deep 
cultivation  is  not  desirable,  as  the  roots  are 
likely  to  be  injured  or  broken.  Three  inches 
in  depth  is  quite  sufficient  to  cultivate  a  bed 
that  has  not  been  trampled  upon.  Use  a 
four-tine  digging  fork,  as  it  is  less  apt  to  cause 
injury  than  a  spade.  The  beds  should  then 
be  edged  and  raked. 

Throughout  the  entire  season  until  the 
middle  of  July  frequent  stirring  of  the  sur- 
22 


THE    ROUTINE    OF    WORK  23 

face  with  a  hoe  and  a  sharp  steel  rake  is  abso- 
lutely necessary  for  all  the  rose  beds.  The 
soil  should  never  be  permitted  to  become 
baked.  After  a  hard  rain,  when  the  surface 
has  been  beaten  down,  it  should  be  loosened 
as  soon  as  it  is  dry  enough  to  work,  and  should 
be  kept  loosened.  This  is  one  of  the  most 
important  points  in  the  cultivation  of  the  rose. 

SUCKERS 

During  this  cultivation,  and  at  all  con- 
venient times,  keep  a  sharp  lookout  for 
suckers,  which  are  growths  shooting  up  from 
the  roots  from  below  the  graft.  Where  the 
rose  is  budded  on  the  brier,  as  is  usually  the 
case,  the  difference  of  foliage  is  so  marked 
as  to  attract  attention  at  once,  the  brier  having 
very  light  green  and  small  leaves  as  compared 
to  the  rose  leaf,  and  also  a  gross  reddish-white 
stem  when  young.  The  brier  leaf  has  seven 
leaflets  instead  of  only  five  as  the  garden  roses 
have.  The  suckers  should  be  carefully  broken 
off  at  their  point  of  junction  with  the  root,  if 
this  can  be  done  without  disturbing  the  plant. 
Otherwise  they  should  be  cut  off  as  low  in  the 
ground  as  the  shears  will  reach.  If  this  detail 


24  ROSES 

is  neglected,  the  result  may  be  a  choice  crop 
of  briers  with  corresponding  shyness  of  rose 
bloom.  Manetti  stock  is  more  difficult  to 
detect,  as  it  resembles  the  rose  in  leaf.  It 
should  not  be  used  as  a  stock  for  out-of-door 
plants. 

LIQUID    MANURE 

As  soon  as  the  flower  buds  begin  to  form, 
about  half  a  gallon  of  weak  liquid  manure 
should  be  poured  around  each  plant  weekly 
as  long  as  the  plant  continues  to  bloom.  A 
good  time  to  apply  this  is  just  before  a  rain, 
as  it  will  thus  be  washed  down  to  the  tender, 
feeding  roots  and  eagerly  appropriated.  The 
liquid  manure  should  not  be  too  strong. 
"Weak  and  often"  is  the  gardener's  motto. 
Half  a  bushel  of  cow  manure  to  a  barrel  of 
water  is  about  the  proper  strength.  The 
liquids  collected  from  the  barn  and  stable, 
diluted  to  the  colour  of  ale,  may  be  used  in 
the  same  quantities. 

Frequent  syringing  with  clean  water,  or 
spraying  with  a  hose,  when  that  is  accessible, 
will  do  much  to  keep  the  leaves  in  a  healthy 
condition.  This  is  especially  necessary  near 
a  large  city,  a  factory,  or  a  railway  where  soft 


THE    ROUTINE    OF    WORK  25 

coal  is  burned.  The  floating  particles  lodging 
on  the  leaves  fill  up  the  pores,  which  are  the 
lungs  of  the  plant,  and  unless  the  foliage  is 
kept  clean  the  plant  will  speedily  sicken  and 
the  leaves  drop  prematurely.  In  extreme 
cases  in  towns  it  is  necessary  to  sponge  the 
leaves  in  order  to  open  the  pores,  but  frequent 
syringing  under  ordinary  circumstances  will 
be  sufficient.  The  frequent  showering  with 
water  will  also  keep  insect  pests  in  check, 
especially  aphis  and  red  spider. 

CUT   THE    FLOWERS    FOR    MORE    BLOOM 

When  the  roses  are  in  bloom,  be  generous 
to  your  friends.  Cut  as  many  as  possible 
each  day.  On  the  plant  they  soon  attain  their 
full  development  and  fall  away.  They  en- 
dure longer  when  cut  and  put  into  water 
indoors.  Cut  in  the  early  morning  before  the 
flowers  are  fully  open.  It  is  better  for  the 
plant  to  have  the  flowers  picked  as  freely  as 
possible,  and  with  as  long  stems  as  the  growth 
will  permit,  merely  observing  the  precaution 
of  leaving  an  outward-growing  eye,  or  per- 
haps two  for  safety,  on  the  stem  below  the  cut. 

Where  it  has  been  found  impossible  to  pick 


26  ROSES 

all  the  roses  for  use,  then  the  plants  should  be 
gone  over  daily  and  all  faded  flowers  removed 
to  a  point  at  least  two  eyes  below  the  flowers. 
A  regular  practice  of  this  precaution  is  the 
only  means  of  insuring  some  autumnal  bloom 
from  the  Hybrid  Perpetuals. 

DISBUDDING 

For  large  flowers  disbud  freely  on  all  free 
bloomers  and  a  very  much  finer  effect  will  be 
obtained  than  in  the  effort  to  mature  all  that 
are  formed. 

Some  varieties  form  large  clusters  of  buds 
at  the  terminal  point  of  the  leading  shoots,  and 
if  all  these  buds  are  allowed  to  remain  the 
vigour  of  the  plant  is  distributed  among  the 
group,  so  that  the  best  results  cannot  be 
obtained  unless  one  is  striving  for  general 
effect.  If  fine  single  specimens  are  desired, 
the  best  bud  only  should  be  retained  and  all 
the  others  removed  as  soon  as  they  can  be 
pinched  off.  The  centre  bud  is  usually  the 
strongest,  but  as  it  may  possibly  be  mal- 
formed, the  most  promising  bud  should  be 
selected.  Rodocanachi,  Prince  Camille,  La 
France,  Magna  Charta,  Rosslyn,  Clio,  Jubilee, 


KILLED  BY  A 

Beginners  either  do  not  know 
almost  all  their  roses  are  budded, 
overgrown  or  killed  like  this 


SUCKER 

or   neglect   the   fact   that 
Their  choice  varieties  are 


THE    ROUTINE    OF    WORK  2J 

and   Madame   Isaac   Pereire   have  this  ten- 
dency markedly  developed. 

In  the  case  of  the  multiflora  and  polyantha 
roses — all  the  cluster  roses,  indeed,  including 
the  Noisettes — the  object  to  be  attained  is 
quantity  of  bloom  rather  than  the  large 
development  of  individuals,  so  disbudding  is 
not  advocated  in  those  cases.  Everything 
depends  upon  the  desire  of  the  gardener. 

WHY   AND    HOW   TO    MULCH 

When  the  great  heats  are  on  and  after  the 
last  cultivation  has  been  given,  apply  a  liberal 
mulch  of  cow  manure,  or  well-spent  stable 
manure.  The  object  is  not  to  enrich  the  soil, 
but  to  retain  the  moisture.  Generally  this 
will  suffice  until  autumn,  but  in  some  situa- 
tions it  may  be  necessary  to  water  in  spite 
of  this  assistance.  Remove  the  surplus  mulch 
in  autumn  before  putting  on  the  winter  pro- 
tection, so  that  the  level  of  the  beds  may  not 
be  raised  too  high. 

WINTER    PROTECTION 

With  the  exception  of  the  Hybrid  Per- 
petuals,  Rugosas,  Hybrid  Polyanthas  (Ram- 


28  ROSES 

biers)  and  Wichuraianas,  roses  are  benefited 
by  protection  in  the  East,  and  most  of  them 
require  it. 

The  amount  of  protection  being  varied 
according  to  the  severity  of  the  climate. 
Dr.  Huey,  at  Philadelphia,  advocates  a  three- 
inch  covering  of  rough  manure  over  the  entire 
bed  as  sufficient  for  all  except  the  tender 
Teas,  but  farther  west  and  north  warmer 
bed-clothing  must  be  provided.  A  neat  and 
effective  way  for  the  latter  is  to  surround  the 
beds  with  a  temporary  fence  of  twelve-inch 
chicken  wire  filled  with  leaves.  These  are 
easily  obtainable  and  are  often  troublesome 
to  dispose  of  otherwise.  Evergreen  boughs 
make  a  fair  covering,  but  they  are  difficult  to 
obtain  in  quantity.  Corn  stalks  are  fre- 
quently used.  Leaves,  however,  answer  the 
purpose  admirably,  and  a  better  or  more 
natural  covering  it  is  difficult  to  get.  They 
can  go  into  the  compost  heap  in  the  spring 
and  become  a  valuable  addition  to  any  new 
beds  later. 

Commander  Ward,  on  Long  Island,  pre- 
pares his  roses  for  winter  thus :  By  November 
1 5th  all  roses,  including  the  hardy  ones,  are 
to  be  given  a  liberal  coating  of  well-rotted 


BUDDED   LOW 

Naturally  the  strong-growing  stock  sends  up  many  suckers 
which  must  be  removed  at  once.     Watch  for  this  daily 


THE    ROUTINE    OF    WORK  2Q 

manure  around  the  base  of  the  plant,  forming 
a  cone  about  ten  inches  high.  All  shoots  of 
tender  climbers  relied  upon  for  next  year's 
bearing  are  carefully  bent  down  and  buried, 
with  or  without  a  salt-hay  protection  over  the 
earth,  according  to  the  degree  of  hardiness. 
All  beds  except  those  of  hardy  roses  are  then 
covered  after  the  first  hard  frost  with  a  coating 
of  dried  leaves,  at  least  twenty  inches  in  thick- 
ness, held  in  place  by  wisps  of  salt  hay  or 
straw,  the  holding-down  material  not  to  be 
too  heavy.  The  covering  should  be  com- 
pleted usually  by  Thanksgiving  Day,  but  of 
course  the  final  application  of  leaves  will 
depend  upon  the  actual  date  of  the  first  good 
frost.  Do  not  cover  too  soon,  nor  with 
leaves  which  are  wet  and  soggy  or  half 
rotted.  In  the  spring  remove  the  covering 
gradually,  none  of  it  as  a  rule  before  April 
1st,  and  some  should  remain  until  at  least 
April  2Oth,  to  guard  against  late  frosts. 
What  remains  of  the  manure  may  be  forked 
in,  being  careful,  however,  not  to  get  the  rose 
stems  buried  beyond  the  proper  depth. 

In  still  colder  regions  it  becomes  necessary 
to  protect  even  the  Hybrid  Perpetuals.  When 
this  is  necessary  there  is  no  real  pleasure  to 


30  ROSES 

be  had  from  planting  the  Teas.  One  success- 
ful amateur  in  the  southern  part  of  Ontario 
adopts  this  method  for  the  Hybrids: 

Four  or  five  layers  of  leaves  are  placed  on 
the  rose  bed  and  close  around  the  bushes  after 
severe  frost  in  the  autumn,  rather  to  prevent 
too  rapid  thawing  in  the  spring  than  as  pro- 
tection against  the  winter's  cold. 

Standards,  which  are  not  often  grown,  need 
much  more  tender  care  than  the  ordinary 
low-budded  plants  of  the  same  varieties.  In 
Elizabeth  Park,  Hartford,  Conn.,  where  is 
the  finest  public  rose  garden  of  the  East,  they 
are  dug  up  bodily  each  fall  and  buried  in  a 
straw-  or  hay-lined  trench  and  covered  with 
a  foot  or  so  of  soil.  In  this  way  complete 
success  has  been  achieved  under  very  trying 
climatic  conditions.  Pillar  roses  can  be  win- 
tered by  being  mulched  and  the  whole  top, 
support  and  all,  wrapped  in  mats,  hay,  burlap 
or  other  convenient  material. 


FERTILISERS 

The  rose  is  a  strong  feeder  and  must  not 
be  neglected.  Each  year  the  beds  should 
receive  a  dressing  of  manure.  Indeed  ani- 


THE    ROUTINE    OF    WORK  3! 

mal  manure,  from  one  to  two  years  old,  is, 
where  it  can  be  obtained,  the  most  desirable 
of  foods  for  the  rose  beds.  Cow  manure  is 
generally  preferred,  as  it  can  be  used  most 
liberally  without  any  danger  from  burning. 
Horse  manure,  when  new,  is  very  heating  and 
should  not  be  used  while  in  this  condition 
except  as  a  winter  mulch.  Hog,  sheep  and 
chicken  manures  are  also  very  useful.  The 
last  two  should,  however,  be  used  sparingly. 

Of  the  commercial  fertilisers,  ground  bone 
is  the  most  useful.  This  may  be  obtained 
in  several  degrees  of  fineness  and  is  often 
given  in  a  mixture  of  grades — fine  bone  meal, 
medium  ground  bone  and  coarse  crushed 
bone  in  equal  parts.  This  may  be  used 
separately  or  to  supplement  animal  manures. 
After  the  beds  are  well  dug,  scatter  the  bone 
on  the  surface  until  the  ground  is  nearly 
covered;  then,  with  the  use  of  a  fork,  it  can 
be  quickly  and  thoroughly  mixed  into  the 
already  fined  soil. 

Nitrate  of  soda  is  one  of  the  very  best  fer- 
tilising agents  we  can  employ  if  it  is  given 
early  in  the  season,  and  supplemented  by 
bone  later.  It  should  be  scattered  thinly 
(say,  about  a  tablespoonful  to  a  plant)  on  the 


32  ROSES 

surface  of  the  beds  about  every  five  or  six 
weeks  during  the  growing  season. 

Dr.  A.  B.  Griffiths  recommended,  in  his 
"Special  Manures  for  Garden  Crops,"  a 
chemical  manure  composed  of  one-half  ounce 
of  superphosphate  of  lime,  and  one-quarter 
ounce  each  of  iron  sulphate  and  sulphate  of 
ammonia.  These  quantities  were  to  be  put 
into  two  gallons  of  water,  and  the  liquid 
applied  to  the  roots  without  wetting  the 
foliage.  In  "The  Book  of  the  Rose"  (third 
edition),  the  Rev.  A.  Foster-Melliar  states  that 
sulphate  of  iron  is  said  to  give  a  better  colour 
to  the  foliage,  and  in  some  sorts,  such  as  Anna 
Olivier,  to  the  blooms  as  well,  but  he  does 
not  place  much  reliance  upon  this.  He  recom- 
mends the  following  mixture,  as  prescribed 
by  Mr.  Tonks  upon  the  result  of  analysis  of 
the  ash  left  from  the  burning  of  rose  plants: 

Superphosphate    of   lime 12  parts 

Nitrate   of  potash 10 

Sulphate    of   magnesia 2 

Sulphate  of  iron I 

Sulphate    of    lime 8     " 

33     " 

This  mixture  should  be  applied  in  March 
and  scattered  over  the  previously  hoed  surface 


BUDDED  HIGH 

Most  desirable   garden   roses   are   weak    growers,   and    are 
therefore  usually  budded  on  a  strong-growing  stock 


THE    ROUTINE    OF    WORK  33 

of  the  bed  at  the  rate  of  one-quarter  pound 
to  the  square  yard.  A  second  and  lighter 
dressing  may  be  applied  at  the  end  of  May  if 
heavy  rains  have  occurred. 


PROPAGATION 

Many  methods  are  employed  in  propagat- 
ing roses,  but  the  practice  here  described 
commends  itself  to  the  amateur  because  it  is 
simple  and  effective.  Cuttings  can  be  rooted 
in  the  garden  or  in  the  greenhouse.  For  out- 
of-door  work  they  should  be  made  in  Novem- 
ber, before  severe  frost,  of  wood  of  the  current 
year's  growth.  They  should  be  cut  into 
lengths  of  six  inches,  tied  into  bundles  with 
tarred  rope  and  buried  in  sandy  soil,  eighteen 
inches  deep,  and  furthermore  protected  from 
freezing  by  a  covering  of  leaves.  In  spring, 
when  the  ground  is  thawed  and  settled,  they 
should  be  planted  in  V-shaped  trenches  in 
well-prepared  beds,  using  a  little  rotted  barn- 
yard manure.  The  cuttings  should  stand 
nearly  erect  and  be  so  deeply  planted  that 
only  one  bud  shows  above  the  surface  of  the 
ground,  two  inches  apart  in  the  row,  with  the 
rows  twelve  inches  apart.  In  this  way  many 


34  ROSES 

desirable  hardy  roses  can  be  multiplied,  e.  g., 
Crimson  and  Yellow  Ramblers,  the  Dawson 
Rose,  Rosa  multiflora,  R.  Wichuraiana  and 
all  their  other  progeny,  R.  setigera,  Prairie 
Queen  and  Baltimore  Belle,  etc.,  also  the 
Manetti  Rose  for  stocks  upon  which  the 
Hybrid  Perpetuals  can  be  budded;  but  for 
the  amateur  it  is  best  to  buy  the  plants. 

When  they  are  grown  under  glass  these 
same  varieties  will  give  a  larger  percentage  of 
rooted  plants,  if  the  cuttings  are  made  two  or 
three  inches  long,  planted  in  pure  sand,  in 
pots  or  boxes,  and  kept  in  a  greenhouse,  in  a 
temperature  of  45°  F.  These  cuttings,  also, 
should  be  made  in  autumn,  before  severe 
weather,  of  wood  just  completing  its  growth. 
They  should  be  planted  thickly,  about  one- 
half  their  length  deep,  and  well  shaded  for 
three  weeks.  Keep  the  temperature  so  low 
that  the  buds  will  not  start  into  growth  before 
a  callus  is  formed  or  the  cutting  is  rooted. 
The  young  plants  can  be  set  out  in  May  or 
early  June,  either  directly  from  the  cutting  bed 
or  after  having  been  established  in  pots. 


HOW  TO  PLANT  AND   PRUNE 

A  dormant  budded  Caroline  Testout  on  Manetti  stock.  A — 
Point  where  bud  was  inserted.  B — Surface  of  ground,  showing 
how  deep  to  plant.  C — About  where  plant  should  be  cut 
back  in  spring.  Always  cut  above  a  bud  pointing  outwards 


CHAPTER  III 
PRUNING 

Treatment  of  newly  planted  stock — Spring  the  best  time 
for  the  work — How  to  prune — The  ideal  in  view — 
Quantity  or  quality — Where  to  cut — The  winter  as  an 
ally — What  not  to  prune — Autumn  pruning — Pruning 
rules  for  all  classes. 

WHEN  roses  are  planted  in  the  autumn, 
prune  them  as  little  as  possible.  All  pruning 
is  best  postponed  until  after  February. 
Sometimes,  however,  non-climbing  roses  will 
shoot  up  at  the  end  of  the  season  in  pithy, 
worthless  stalks  or  weak  streamers,  whose 
swaying  in  the  high  winds  is  likely  to  be 
injurious  to  the  plants  by  disturbing  the  roots. 
Such  pithy  shoots  should  be  cut  out  altogether 
and  the  streamers  topped  off. 

The  pruning  of  the  hardy  roses,  climbers 
and  non-climbing,  should  be  completed  by 
the  middle  of  March.  Tender  roses  may  be 
pruned  in  early  April;  the  object  is  to  keep 
the  covering  undisturbed  as  long  as  possible, 

35 


ROSES 


but  to  avoid  waiting  until  the  sap  is  running 
freely.  A  revision  of  the  pruning  will  have 
to  take  place  by  May  1st  anyhow,  but  it 
should  be  limited  to  what  is  indispensable. 


A  Crimson  Rambler  Rose  is  best  pruned  by  removing  the  old  canes 
entirely  and  shortening  others  if  necessary. 


Prune  back  recently  planted  roses  rather 
vigorously.  Protect  all  severe  cuts  with  tree 
wax. 

The  degree  of  pruning  each  grower  must 
decide  for  himself.     If  the  largest  individual 


PRUNING 


37 


flowers  are  sought  the  pruning  can  hardly 
be  too  severe;  but  for  ordinary  garden  pur- 
poses a  moderate  cutting  will  be  better. 

The  stronger  the  growth  of  the  rose,  the 
less  it  should  be  pruned;  many  such  roses, 
if  too  severely  cut  back,  will  run  to  wood 
(Margaret  Dickson)  or  die  out  altogether 
(Gloire  Lyonnaise). 

In  pruning,  cut  out  all 
the  dead  wood  and  weak- 
est shoots  first.  Where 
two  limbs  make  a  bad 
cross  and  are  liable  to 
chafe,  remove  one  of 
them,  remembering  to 
keep  the  centre  of  the 
plant  as  clear  as  possible 
to  admit  the  circulation 
of  air.  Now  consider 
what  you  have  left  and 
what  you  want:  if  but 
few  roses  of  surpassing  size,  then  prune  a 
vigorous  plant  to  three  or  four  eyes  on  the 
shoot;  if  you  want  quantity,  leave  six  eyes, 
or  even  more.  If  the  effect  of  large  masses 
is  wanted,  four  or  five  canes  may  be  retained 
three  feet  in  length,  and  all  very  old  or  weak 


The  same  plant  of  Crimson 
Rambler,  pruned,  to  be 
grown  as  a  bush. 


38  ROSES 

growth  should  be  entirely  removed.  This 
will  give  a  large  number  of  flowers  effective 
in  the  mass,  but  small,  and  with  short,  weak 
foot-stalks,  scarcely  able  to  support  the  weight 
of  the  blooms  and  not  effective  as  cut  flowers. 
This  sort  of  pruning  is  entirely  for  outside 
show.  After  the  bloom  is  over  the  canes 
should  be  shortened  back  at  least  one-half 
so  that  the  plant  may  make  strong  wood  for 
the  next  season  of  bloom.  Plants  pruned  in 
this  way  require  strong  stakes. 

If  quality  is  desired,  all  weak  growth 
should  be  removed  and  every  healthy  cane 
retained  and  cut  back  in  proportion  to  the 
development  of  each  plant.  The  weakest 
should  not  have  more  than  four  inches  of 
wood  left  on  the  root,  while  the  strongest  may 
have  eight  or  nine  inches. 

The  canes  should  be  cut  off  about  a  quarter 
of  an  inch  above  an  outside  bud,  and  care 
must  be  taken  that  the  wood  is  not  torn  nor 
the  bud  bruised.  The  shoot  growing  from 
the  uppermost  bud  will  usually  be  strong,  and 
will  grow  in  whatever  direction  the  bud 
points.  Therefore  the  highest  bud  left  should 
point  toward  the  outside  of  the  plant,  that  the 
head  may  be  open  and  light  and  air  admitted. 


PRUNING  39 

Roses  pruned  in  this  way  do  not  need 
stakes.  They  are  sufficiently  strong  and 
stocky  to  hold  erect  any  weight  they  may  be 
called  upon  to  bear.  They  will  require  very 
little  summer  pruning  if  the  blooms  have 
been  cut,  as  eight  to  twelve  inches  of  wood 
are  removed  with  each  flower.  Of  course, 
the  number  of  blooms  will  be  much  reduced, 
but  the  quality  of  the  fine  specimens  obtained 
will  amply  repay  the  lack  of  abundance. 

Pruning  of  Hybrid  Teas  and  Teas  may  be 
profitably  left  until  the  first  signs  of  life  are 
discoverable,  as  evidenced  by  the  bark  becom- 
ing greener  and  the  dormant  buds  beginning 
to  swell.  By  that  time  any  dead  or  dying 
wood  can  readily  be  detected,  thus  making  it 
easier  to  select  what  should  be  removed  and 
what  retained.  They  do  not  need  such 
severe  pruning  as  that  prescribed  for  the 
Hybrid  Perpetuals;  twice  the  amount  of 
wood  may  safely  be  left  if  it  is  promising. 

Bourbon  Roses,  as  Malmaison  and  Mrs. 
Paul,  require  very  little  pruning.  If  the 
weak  wood  is  removed  and  the  strong  shoots 
shortened  a  few  inches  the  best  results  will  be 
obtained.  This  class  will  not  bloom  on  the 
new  wood. 


4o 


ROSES 


In  pruning  the  weak-growing  varieties,  it 
will  generally  be  found  that  the  winter  has 
done  most  of  the  work  already,  leaving  but 
little  to  choose  from.  In  this  case  prune  to 

the  very  soil,  if  neces- 
sary, to  get  to  sound 
wood.  If  anything 
remains  at  all  after 
this  apparent  de- 
struction, these 
same  plants  will  be 
found  to  bear  pro- 
fusely before  the 
season  is  over. 

Rugosas,  climbers 
and  pillar  roses 
should  be  pruned 
as  little  as  possible, 
merely  removing  the 
old  wood  past  bear- 
ing, cutting  out  dead 
wood  and  trimming 
back  the  ends  of  the 

remaining  shoots  slightly,  after  training  them. 
It  may  be  stated  here  that  in  training  all 
climbers,  you  must  avoid  straight-up  training, 
or  the  sap  will  all  tend  to  the  top,  denuding 


Hybrid  Perpetual  Rose  before 
pruning.     (General  Jacqueminot) 


PRUNING  41 

the  lower  part  of  the  plant.  First  bend  the 
shoot  in  one  direction  or  another,  then  let  it 
tend  upward  if  necessary.  If  a  climber  has 
developed  more  shoots  than  it  appears  able  to 
support,  the  weakest  may  be  removed,  remem- 
bering that  in  most  cases  the  bloom  of  any 
one  year  is  best  on  the  last  year's  shoots. 

AUTUMN    PRUNING 

Before  the  high  winds  of  November  begin, 
the  bushy  tops  of  all  canes  in  the  dwarf- 
growing  varieties  should  be  removed  unless 
they  are  securely  tied  to  stakes.  This  is  to 
prevent  the  plants  from  being  whipped  by 
the  wind  and  the  tender  feeding  roots  from 
being  broken.  It  is 
better  to  leave  the 
canes  about  two  feet 
in  length.  The 
plant  should  not  be 
cut  back  to  the  point 
suggested  for  spring 
pruning,  for  a  few  The  same  bush  after  pmning. 
hot  days  will  force 

out  the  uppermost  eyes,  which  later  will  be 
destroyed  in  the  winter.  Enough  wood  should 


42  ROSES 

be  left  to  insure  the  safety  of  the  eyes  that  are 
retained  for  next  season's  flowers. 


RULES    FOR   PRUNING 

I.  Hybrid  Perpetuals,  Hybrid  Teas,  Pro- 
vence and  Moss  Roses  are  best  grown  as  bushy 
plants.  They  should  be  severely  cut  back 
while  dormant  in  spring,  but  never  in  summer 
or  early  autumn,  as  is  sometimes  done  be- 
cause they  are  straggling  and  look  unkempt 
in  an  otherwise  neat  garden.  From  two- 
thirds  to  four-fifths  of  last  year's  wood,  and 
all  weak  shoots,  are  removed.  This  results  in 
strong  growths,  producing  large  flowers,  the 
size  of  which  can  be  increased  by  disbudding. 
If  numerous  smaller  flowers  are  desired — 
i.  e.,  quantity  at  the  expense  of  quality — the 
shortening-in  need  not  be  carried  so  far.  It 
is  permissible  to  cut  back  only  one-half,  but 
this  treatment  is  objectionable,  and  does  not 
tend  to  keep  the  plants  in  good  condition. 
This  winter  pruning  should  be  supplemented 
by  a  summer  pruning,  which  consists  of 
simply  cutting  out  the  flowering  shoots  after 
the  flowers  fade.  It  is  already  done  if  all  the 
blooms  have  been  gathered.  Remove  weak 


; 


Pruned  in  spring  for  quality  of  bloom.  A  Hybrid  Perpetual 
rose.  Twelve  canes  from  six  to  eight  inches  long,  each  cut 
above  an  outside  bud,  giving  an  open  centre  to  the  bush 


The  same  bush  eight  months  later.  Showing  that  severe 
pruning  does  not  check  growth.  Also  how  bushy  tops  should 
be  cut  back  in  autumn  to  prevent  injury  by  the  wind 


PRUNING  43 

growths  and  all  sprouts  from  the  stock  as 
they  appear.  As  the  plants  age,  worn-out 
stems  must  be  taken  out  and  the  centre  left 
open  to  encourage  new  shoots.  Some  of 
these  roses  are  short-lived  and  must  eventually 
be  replaced.  Hybrid  Perpetual  Roses  of 
weak  habit — e.  g.,  Prince  Camille  de  Rohan 
—should  be  cut  back  harder  than  vigorous 
growers  like  General  Jacqueminot,  but  only 
when  in  good  health.  Hybrid  Perpetuals,  as  a 
rule,  require  the  most  severe  pruning;  Moss 
and  Provence  Roses  the  least. 

2.  Climb  ing  Roses — the  Dawson,  Baltimore 
Belle,  Prairie  Queen,  Crimson  Rambler  and 
others — need  not  be  pruned  so  hard  as  those 
above  described.  Cut  off  in  spring,  before 
the  buds  open,  from  one-fifth  to  one-third  of 
the  previous  year's  growth;  also,  in  estab- 
lished plants,  any  of  the  old,  flowering  wood 
which  is  enfeebled.  Do  not  hesitate,  even 
if  a  part  of  the  trellis  is  laid  bare.  It  is  by 
this  means  only  that  these  plants  can  be  kept 
vigorous.  In  summer  take  out  most  of  the 
old  wood  after  it  has  finished  flowering  and 
train  new  growths  as  desired,  pinching  out 
weak  and  objectionable  shoots. 

Half-Climbing  Roses,  like  the  Japanese  Rosa 


44  ROSES 

multiflora  (R.  polyantha)  and  its  varieties, 
the  Sweetbriers,  R.  setigera,  the  type,  and  the 
Dog  Rose,  are  commonly  grown  as  bushes  and 
pruned  as  above  described,  more  attention 
being  paid  to  cutting  out  worn-out  stems  and 
keeping  the  centres  open;  but  the  flowering 
wood  must  not  be  removed  after  blooming 
where  fruit  is  desired  in  winter. 

Trailing  Roses  (R.  Wichuraiana  and  its 
varieties)  require  comparatively  little  pruning, 
particularly  in  the  North,  where  unfavourable 
seasons  are  apt  to  kill  some  of  the  wood.  By 
taking  out  dead  branches  and  cutting  back 
enough  to  restore  the  balance,  opportunity  is 
given  for  new  growths  which  are  essential 
to  keep  them  in  good  condition. 

Half-climbing  hybrids  of  this  rose — e.  g., 
Sweetheart,  Debutante,  etc.,  and  the  old 
Ayrshire  Roses — R.  arvensis  (R.  repens)  and 
their  varieties — are  pruned  in  much  the  same 
way. 

The  Briers — the  Persian  Yellow  Rose,  Hari- 
son's  Yellow,  and  Austrian  Brier  are  not 
strong  growers.  One  must  be  cautious  with 
the  knife,  cutting  out  the  flowering  wood 
after  the  blooms  fade.  In  established  plants 
the  worn-out  stems  can  be  removed  at  any 


PRUNING  45 

time.  Scotch  Roses  can  be  treated  in  the 
same  way,  and  are  much  benefited  by  being 
cut  clean  to  the  ground  once  in  about  seven 
years.  Their  habit  of  spreading  by  under- 
ground stems  helps  the  recovery. 

3.  Wild  Roses,  R.  blanda,  Carolina,  lucida, 
nitida,  etc.,  are  grown  not  only  for  the  flowers, 
but  for  the  bright  twigs  and  hips,  in  winter. 
Consequently  much  depends  upon  sturdy 
growth.  They  are  frequently  planted  in 
such  quantity  that  careful  pruning  is  impos- 
sible. Take  out  the  older  wood  from  time  to 
time,  and  at  intervals  of  several  years,  deter- 
mined by  their  condition,  cut  clean  to  the 
ground,  at  the  same  time  give  manure,  and 
reset  the  plants,  discarding  the  old  and  feeble. 
Rosa  rugosa  and  its  variety  alba  do  not 
require  annual  pruning,  unless  it  be  a  little 
shortening-in  of  the  tips — an  interminable 
operation.  After  these  plants  are  well  estab- 
lished, however,  the  older  canes  should  be 
cut  out  occasionally,  thus  keeping  the  centre 
free  and  encouraging  new  growths.  If  at 
any  time  they  are  in  bad  shape  from  winter 
killing  or  disease,  they  can  be  cut  to  the 
ground.  Hybrids  of  Rosa  rugosa,  like  Mad- 
ame Bruant,  are  helped  by  spring  pruning, 


46  ROSES 

cutting  back  the  annual  growths,  and  thin- 
ning out  old  wood. 

4.  Tender  Roses,  like  the  Teas,  Chinas,  Ben- 
gals, and  Bourbons,  should  be  cut  in  at  the 
beginning  of  the  flowering  season,  and,  since 
they  are  really  perpetual  bloomers,  this 
process  must  be  continued  as  long  as  the 
season  lasts.  Weak  and  unproductive  shoots 
must  be  removed.  Cloth  of  Gold,  Lamarque, 
Marechal  Niel,  and  other  roses  of  like  habit 
are  closely  pruned  after  their  wood  is  well 
ripened,  when  they  are  most  at  rest.  Under 
glass,  this  is  usually  done  just  before  starting 
them  into  growth.  To  bloom  the  Cherokee 
Rose  in  a  cool  greenhouse  in  January  and 
February,  four-fifths  of  the  summer's  growth 
must  be  cut  away  in  October.  Worn-out  canes 
can  be  removed  at  any  time.  The  double- 
flowered  varieties  of  R.  Banksia  are  severely 
cut  back  after  the  blooms  have  faded,  in  May 
or  June  in  a  cool  house. 


CHAPTER  IV 
INSECTS,  DISEASES  AND  SPRAYING 

Only  one  really  serious  pest — Importance  of  general  good 
health — Every-day  remedies — Water  and  poisons — 
The  scales — Fungus  diseases  worse  under  glass — No 
need  for  despair — When  to  spray. 

INSECTS 

OF  all  the  ornamental  garden  plants,  the 
rose  bush  usually  suffers  the  most  from  insect 
pests,  although  well-grown,  healthy  roses  in 
the  open  air  surfer  little,  except  from  the  rose 
bug  or  beetle,  the  most  formidable  enemy 
of  all. 

Rose  beetle.  This  is  very  destructive  if 
allowed  to  increase.  Daily  inspection  is  nec- 
essary whenever  it  appears.  The  beetles  are 
oftenest  found  buried  in  the  heart  of  the 
choicest  light-coloured  flowers,  and  are  most 
numerous  on  sandy  soils.  Hand  picking  in 
the  early  morning  is  the  only  remedy,  and  a 
small  vessel  half  filled  with  kerosene  is  a  safe 
and  convenient  receptacle.  Paris  green  at 

47 


48  ROSES 

the  rate  of  one  pound  to  two  hundred  gallons 
will  kill  the  beetle,  but  it  also  injures  the 
foliage.  The  application  of  arsenate  of  lead, 
five  pounds  to  fifty  gallons  of  water,  is  recom- 
mended. 

Rose  siugs  are  usually  found  on  the  under 
side  of  the  leaves  and  may  be  detected 
by  the  skeletonised  appearance  of  the  leaf. 
These  small,  green,  slug-like  worms  are  the 
larvae  of  a  small  black  saw-fly,  which  may 
be  seen  busily  at  work  in  early  June  thrusting 
its  egg  into  the  leaves.  A  second  brood  of 
the  slugs  works  in  August.  They  are  oftenest 
found  on  plants  grown  in  frequented  places, 
such  as  a  porch,  where  the  birds  will  not 
remove  them.  A  decoction  made  of  two 
tablespoonsful  of  powdered  white  hellebore 
to  four  gallons  of  boiling  water,  applied  when 
cool  with  a  whisk-broom,  so  that  the  under 
surface  is  thoroughly  wetted,  proves  most 
effective.  One  thorough  application  will 
usually  suffice,  but  if  the  slug  has  appeared 
in  given  places  during  previous  years,  an- 
ticipate his  coming  and  apply  the  hellebore 
solution  before  the  expected  arrival,  or,  since 
it  is  a  chewing  insect,  a  Paris  green  spray  can 
be  used. 


INSECTS,    DISEASES    AND    SPRAYING        49 

Aphis,  or  green  fly,  is  the  most  common 
pest  that  the  the  rose  grower  has  to  contend 
with.  Vigilance  is  the  best  remedy.  The 
fly  should  be  attacked  just  as  soon  as  it 
appears,  as  the  increase  is  on  a  scale  of  mar- 
vellous rapidity.  The  finger  and  thumb  are 
excellent  for  the  early  attack.  At  that  time 
a  plant  may  be  cleansed  in  a  few  minutes, 
but  it  should  be  at  once  sprinkled  with 
tobacco  water  in  which  a  small  portion  of 
whale-oil  soap  has  been  dissolved. 

Leaf  hopper.  Beginning  early  in  June 
and  continuing  throughout  the  season,  the 
leaf  hoppers  appear.  These  pests  are  a  con- 
stant menace.  When  the  upper  surfaces  of 
the  green  leaves  show  minute  yellow  blotches, 
a  glance  on  the  under  sides  will  reveal  the 
culprits,  and  when  the  bush  is  jarred,  they 
jump  or  fly  off  in  large  numbers.  They  are 
minute,  active,  light-yellow  leaf  hoppers,  or 
the  misnamed  "thrips"  of  the  rose  grower. 
Most  of  their  life  is  spent  on  the  under  sides 
of  the  rose  leaves.  They  suck  their  food 
from  the  inside  of  the  leaves,  often  seriously 
weakening  the  plant. 

The  plant  lice  and  leaf  hoppers  are  sucking 
insects  and  must  be  suffocated  with  insect 


5O  ROSES 

powder  or  tobacco  dust,  or  they  must  be  hit 
with  an  oil,  a  soap,  or  a  tobacco  spray. 
Kerosene  emulsion,  a  strong  tobacco  decoc- 
tion, or  whale-oil  soap  (one  pound  in  six  to 
eight  gallons  of  water),  will  kill  all  that  are 
wet  with  the  spray,  but  it  is  practically  impos- 
sible to  hit  them  all  with  one  application,  and 
they  develop  so  rapidly  that  usually  it  is 
necessary  to  repeat  the  dose  several  times 
during  the  season.  Either  of  these  sprays 
will  doubtless  kill  any  slugs  that  may  be  at 
work  at  the  same  time. 

WATER   AND    POISONS    AS    REMEDIES 

If  a  strong  water  pressure  is  available,  one 
can  often  master  all  of  these  serious  enemies 
of  the  garden  rose  bush  with  the  hose  and 
a  coarse  spray  nozzle,  by  simply  knocking  off 
the  insects  with  a  spray  every  few  days. 

In  trying  poisons,  remember  that  rose 
foliage  is  tender  and  may  be  injured  by  strong 
mixtures. 

Very  common  is  the  bark  louse,  which  sur- 
vives the  winter  and  is  usually  found  on  old 
wood.  It  can  best  be  treated  before  growth 
begins  in  the  spring  and  can  be  removed  by 
scrubbing  with  a  tooth-brush  and  a  plentiful 


INSECTS,   DISEASES   AND    SPRAYING        51 

supply  of  soap  and  water.  Kerosene  emul- 
sion is  of  course  a  proper  remedy  for  this,  too. 

The  rose  is  just  as  likely  as  any  other  plant 
in  the  garden  to  be  attacked  by  the  San  Jose 
scale,  and  must  be  treated  similarly  to  other 
infected  plants.  The  lime-sulphur-salt  wash 
is  found  to  be  superior  to  all  other  remedies 
yet  tried.  An  objection  to  this  lies  in  the 
whitewashed  effect  given  to  the  plants,  but 
the  addition  of  lamp  black  to  the  mixture 
tones  down  the  colour  to  a  dark  greenish 
grey,  which  in  the  garden  is  worth  the  little 
extra  trouble  involved. 

Sometimes  curious  half-circular  pieces  are 
cut  out  of  rose  leaves  by  the  leaf-cutter  bee, 
which  deftly  makes  them  into  long  tubes  con- 
taining several  cells  in  which  its  young  are 
developed. 

DISEASES 

The  rose  is  subject  to  a  hundred  or  more 
fungous  diseases,  the  majority  of  which,  hap- 
pily, are  not  serious  obstacles  to  the  gardener. 
There  are  a  few,  however,  among  the  host 
which  add  to  the  troubles  of  the  grower. 

The  Black  Spot  is  the  most  wide-spread  and 
conspicuous  of  all  the  diseases.  It  was  first 


52  ROSES 

described  in  1826.  This  is  an  old  enemy,  and 
has  long  been  known  to  the  rose  growers  in 
Europe.  The  foliage,  when  attacked,  soon 
develops  the  characteristic  black  spots,  and 
the  leaves  become  elsewhere  pale,  and  shortly 
fall  to  the  ground.  As  a  result,  rose  houses 
badly  infested  with  the  black  spot  show  but 
few  leaves  and  fewer  blooms.  The  micro- 
scopic structure  of  this  fungus  has  been  fully 
considered,  with  plates,  in  the  first  annual 
report  made  by  Professor  Scribner  as  Chief 
of  the  Section  of  Vegetable  Pathology  of  the 
United  States  Department  of  Agriculture,  for 
the  year  1887.  This  trouble  may  be  held  in 
check  by  the  carbonate  of  copper  compound, 
using  five  ounces  of  the  carbonate  of  copper 
to  three  quarts  of  ammonia  and  sixty  gallons 
of  water.  The  spraying  should  be  done  once 
a  week,  using  a  hose  with  a  nozzle  that  gives 
a  fine  spray.  The  point  should  be  to  wet 
every  part  of  the  plant,  and  yet  not  drench  it. 
If  many  leaves  have  fallen  from  the  plant  they 
should  be  gathered  up  and  burned. 

Some  varieties  are  more  liable  to  the  black 
spot  than  others.  When  possible — that  is, 
when  all  other  things  remain  the  same — it  is, 
of  course,  wise  to  grow  those  least  susceptible 


INSECTS,    DISEASES    AND    SPRAYING        53 

to  the  disease.  Dr.  B.  D.  Halsted  has  seen 
the  black  spot  upon  a  species  of  wild  rose 
(Rosa  humilis),  where  it  was  causing  the 
leaves  to  become  spotted  and  yellow.  The 
wild  plant  was  growing  but  a  short  distance 
from  a  neglected  estate  where  garden  roses 
were  badly  spotted. 

The  Actinonema,  the  fungus  causing  the 
disease,  belongs  to  a  small  genus,  and  some 
of  the  species  are  parasites  upon  the  bass- 
wood,  beach,  ash,  viburnum.  The  one  upon 
the  rose  is  not  found  upon  plants  outside  of 
the  genus  Rosa,  and  there  has  its  favourite 
species  and  varieties.  This  is  shown  in  a 
remarkable  manner  with  some  of  the  cul- 
tivated sorts  grown  side  by  side  in  the  same 
house.  It  is  often  very  bad  upon  the  Amer- 
ican Beauty. 

The  Rose  Leaf  Blight  disfigures  and  injures 
the  rose  leaves  almost  as  badly  as  the  black 
spot.  A  thoroughly  diseased  leaflet  has 
large  irregular  blotches  of  grey  colour  sur- 
rounded by  a  margin  of  dark  purple.  The 
grey  dead  centre  of  the  spot  bears  a  number 
of  pimples  or  specks — more  numerous  and 
conspicuous  near  the  centre — and  in  these  the 
spores  are  produced.  It  is  closely  related  to 


54  ROSES 

the  leaf  blight  of  the  strawberry.  It  is  impor- 
tant to  know  these  relationships  between 
the  various  plant  diseases,  for  it  is  helpful  in 
the  struggle  in  overcoming  them.  The  leaf 
blight  of  the  strawberry  is  very  much  more 
common  than  that  of  the  rose,  and  any 
effective  remedy  found  for  the  former  may  be 
of  value  in  checking  the  ravages  of  the  latter. 
Fruit  growers  have  found  this  strawberry 
leaf  blight  a  hard  one  to  check,  perhaps 
because  of  its  many  forms  of  spores  and  the 
low  habit  of  the  plant  and  the  consequent 
difficulty  of  readily  spraying  the  foliage  upon 
the  under  side.  This  difficulty  does  not  obtain 
with  the  rose,  and  it  may  be  controlled  more 
easily.  There  is  no  question  but  that  the 
standard  fungicides  should  be  used  when 
this  fungus  is  at  work. 

The  Rose  Mildew. — The  most  familiar 
fungous  enemy  of  the  rose  is  the  mildew 
(Sphaerotheca  pannosa,  Wallr.).  This  dis- 
ease has  been  known  for  a  long  time  and  is 
quickly  recognised  by  the  powdery  coat  it 
develops  upon  the  affected  parts.  It  is  so 
rapid  in  its  development  that  rose  growers  are 
sometimes  inclined  to  assign  the  cause  of  the 
growth  to  that  which  is  in  reality  only  the 


INSECTS,   DISEASES   AND    SPRAYING        55 

condition  or  conditions  favouring  the  appear^ 
ance  of  the  mildew.  It  comes  from  spores, 
which  falling  upon  the  surface  of  the  plant 
will  quickly  germinate  and  produce  a  cob- 
webby coating  to  the  foliage.  This  fungus 
is  so  different  from  the  others  that  have  been 
mentioned,  that  a  word  is  needed  in  way  of 
explaining  the  habit  of  the  parasite,  as  this  lies 
at  the  foundation  of  the  rational  treatment  of 
the  pest.  In  the  first  place  the  rose  mildew 
is  a  surface  feeder  and  only  attaches  itself  to 
the  epidermis  of  the  host,  through  which  by 
means  of  small  suckers  it  derives  its  nourish- 
ment from  the  deeper-seated  substance.  Being, 
therefore,  entirely  upon  the  surface,  the  fine 
threads  of  the  fungus  may  grow  rapidly  and 
make  a  mildew  patch  in  a  very  short  time 
that  is  easily  seen.  The  exact  conditions  that 
favour  this  development  of  the  spores  are 
pretty  well  known  to  rose  growers.  Some 
of  them  claim  that  they  can  develop  the  fun- 
gus at  will,  on  plants  under  glass,  by  omitting 
some  essential  point  in  heating,  watering  or 
ventilation,  particularly  the  last.  If  a  certain 
current  of  air  is  sure  to  produce  the  mildew, 
it  follows  that  the  spores  of  the  mildew  were 
widely  scattered  through  the  house,  and  that 


56  ROSES 

they  started  into  vigorous  growth  at  those 
places  where  the  proper  conditions  were 
supplied. 

The  superficial  nature  of  the  mildew  is  of 
great  importance  when  the  matter  of  remedies 
is  considered.  It  is  a  fungus  that  is  in  the 
air,  as  it  may  be  termed,  in  contrast  with  most 
of  the  rose  diseases  that  when  active  are 
deeply  seated  in  the  plant.  The  spores  are 
produced  as  minute  delicate  cells  upon 
upright  filaments  that  arise  from  the  web 
of  horizontal  vegetative  hyphae.  They  are 
easily  reached  by  fungicides  and  apparently 
destroyed  without  difficulty.  Any  of  the 
ordinary  sprays  will  answer  for  the  mildew, 
but  even  these  need  not  be  resorted  to,  pro- 
vided spraying  is  uncalled  for  by  the  presence 
of  other  rose  fungi.  In  short,  if  the  mildew 
is  the  only  enemy  at  hand,  it  may  be  kept  in 
check  by  the  use  of  flowers  of  sulphur,  either 
dusted  upon  the  plants  or  even  the  pipes  of 
the  greenhouse,  the  point  being  to  produce  a 
gentle  fumigation  of  the  plants  and  the  whole 
house  with  the  fumes  of  the  sulphur.  Profes- 
sor Maynard,  of  the  Massachusetts  Experi- 
ment Station,  finds  that  a  small  kerosene  stove 
is  most  convenient  for  this  purpose,  and  the 


INSECT,    DISEASES    AND    SPRAYING  57 

sulphur,  by  means  of  it,  is  boiled  in  a  kettle 
for  two  or  three  hours  twice  a  week,  the  house 
being  closed  during  the  operation.  The  only 
precaution  is  to  use  no  more  heat  than  is 
sufficient  to  boil  the  sulphur,  for  should  it 
catch  fire  it  might  damage  the  plants.  Mr. 
John  N.  May  writes  that  the  best  way  to  get 
rid  of  the  mildew  on  roses  under  glass  is  to 
close  the  house  about  eight  o'clock  in  the 
morning,  run  the  temperature  up  to  75°, 
then,  with  a  bellows,  fill  the  house  full  of 
sulphur.  Let  the  house  remain  closed  till  it 
reaches  85°  or  90°,  and  afterward  let  air  in 
gradually.  A  constant  circulation  of  air  is 
likewise  recommended  for  roses  at  all  times. 
Potassium  sulphide,  one  ounce  to  two  gallons 
of  water,  sprayed  upon  the  plants  has  proved 
an  effective  remedy.  Dr.  Massee  states  that 
"flowers  of  sulphur  mixed  with  about  one- 
third  of  its  volume  of  slaked  lime  dusted  on 
the  foliage  prevents  the  spread  of  the  disease." 
Gardeners,  from  long  experience,  have  come 
to  the  belief  that  rose  mildew  is  induced  by 
a  weak  condition  of  the  plant,  resulting  from 
partial  starvation,  irregular  or  excessive  water- 
ing, and  undue  exposure  to  drafts  of  cold  air. 
The  best  success  in  rose  growing,  as  in  all 


58  ROSES 

other  things,  attends  those  who  give  constant, 
intelligent  care  to  the  many  details. 

The  mildews  of  the  phlox  and  verbena 
have  been  effectually  controlled  by  spraying 
with  kerosene  emulsion  of  the  standard 
strength  for  insects.  This  mildew  is  so 
closely  related  to  the  one  of  the  rose  that 
similar  results  may  be  expected  with  the  rose 
mildew. 

The  Downy  Mildew  of  the  Rose. — A  second 
form  of  mildew  (Peronospora  sparsa,  Berk.) 
is  sometimes  troublesome  to  rose  growers. 
This  is  a  close  relative  of  a  similar  one  upon 
the  greenhouse  lettuce,  and  another  is  often 
destructive  to  spinach,  while  a  third  is  the 
cause  of  a  soft  rot  of  potatoes.  It  produces 
downy  or  velvety  patches  upon  the  leaf,  quite 
unlike  the  form  above  described,  and  the 
threads  run  through  the  substance  of  the 
leaf.  In  this  case  the  fungus  will  have  vege- 
tated for  a  considerable  time  before  it  appears 
upon  the  surface,  which  is  entirely  for  the  pur- 
pose of  producing  its  multitude  of  spores 
borne  upon  the  tips  of  the  many  aerial 
branches. 

It  is  evident  that  the  sulphur  fumes  may 
cause  the  destruction  of  the  spores,  but  may 


REINE  MARIE  HENRIETTE  AS  A  TRELLIS  ROSE 

Three  hundred   blooms  three  years  from   planting.     An  excellent  way  of  using 
climbing  roses.     A  climbing  hybrid  tea 


INSECTS,    DISEASES    AND    SPRAYING        59 

not  reach  the  parts  that  are  within  the  sub- 
stance of  the  host.  Such  treatment,  while 
tending  to  check  the  spread  by  means  of  the 
spores,  will  not  be  sufficient  to  arrest  the 
growth  of  the  fungus  that  is  already  in  the 
tissue  of  the  host. 

There  is  also  a  second  form  of  spore  that 
is  produced  beneath  the  skin  of  the  leaf  and 
out  of  reach  of  fungicides.  As  a  precaution 
it  is  therefore  well  to  destroy  any  mildewed 
leaves,  or  else  when  they  fall  the  spores  may 
be  set  free. 

The  Rose  Rust  (Phragmidium  subcorticum, 
Schr.)  is  a  genuine  rust  similar  to  that  of  the 
wheat,  oats  and  other  grains.  It  is  not  com- 
mon upon  indoor  roses,  but  is  sometimes  and 
in  some  places  a  troublesome  pest  upon  roses 
grown  for  ornament  in  the  flower  garden  and 
lawn.  It  attacks  more  especially  hardy 
hybrid  varieties.  All  three  forms  of  the  fun- 
gus are  produced  on  the  same  host.  The 
aecidia  appear  in  late  spring  on  the  leaves 
and  young  shoots,  forming  powdery  orange 
patches,  and  often  cause  distortion  of  the 
shoots.  About  midsummer  the  patches  be- 
come deeper  in  colour,  owing  to  the  formation 
of  uredospores.  Finally  the  resting  spores 


60  ROSES 

are  produced  as  minute  black  dots  on  the 
under  surface  of  the  leaves. 

The  appearance  of  the  disease  in  spring 
depends  entirely  on  the  presence  of  winter 
spores  in  the  neighbourhood.  It  is  therefore 
necessary  to  collect  and  burn  all  fallen  leaves 
in  the  autumn.  Plants  that  have  been  at- 
tacked the  previous  season  should  be  thor- 
oughly drenched  with  a  solution  of  sulphate 
of  copper  in  water  —  two  ounces  in  three 
gallons — in  early  spring  before  the  buds 
expand.  The  soil  around  the  plants  may 
also  be  sprayed  with  the  same  solution. 
Diluted  Bordeaux  mixture,  or  ammoniated 
carbonate  of  copper  solution,  checks  the 
aecidium  and  uredo  stages. 

The  fungus  also  grows  on  wild  roses,  and 
these  may  become  a  source  of  infection  unless 
precautions  are  taken. 

When  a  shrub  is  badly  infested  there  is 
little  better  to  do  than  cut  the  whole  plant 
away  close  to  the  ground.  This  fungus  is 
closely  related  to  {he  one  upon  the  blackberry 
and  raspberry,  causing  the  destructive  rust 
of  those  plants.  It  has  been  shown  that  the 
fungous  hyphae  penetrate  all  parts  of  the 
blackberry  plant,  even  the  roots,  and  the  rose 


STANDARD  ROSES  IN  A  FAMOUS  GARDEN  AT  SARATOGA,  N.  Y. 

Standard  roses  are  popular  in  England,  but  they  do  poorly  in  America,  needing  to 
be  buried  in  a  trench  for  winter  protection.  They  are  effective  in  the  formal  rose  garden 
because  they  break  the  monotony  of  a  uniformly  low  level 


INSECTS,    DISEASES    AND    SPRAYING        6l 

grower  may  not  find  that  severe  pruning  will 
rid  a  plant  of  the  pest  when  it  is  thoroughly 
infested.  Therefore,  as  with  the  raspberry 
rust,  it  may  be  necessary  to  root  out  and 
destroy  the  rose  bush  and  start  again  with  a 
healthy  plant.  This  rose  rust  is  a  good  illus- 
tration of  the  great  depth  to  which  a  fungus 
will  penetrate  in  the  host  and  the  difficulty 
of  eradicating  the  same.  It  goes  without 
saying  that  ordinary  sprays  will  be  of  little 
curative  effect  upon  a  plant  when  the  living 
vegetative  threads  of  its  fungous  parasite 
penetrate  to  all  parts. 

In  California  the  rust  upon  roses  is  very 
much  worse  than  it  is  in  the  East — sometimes 
every  leaf  upon  a  shrub  is  badly  affected.  In 
such  a  warm  climate,  wrhen  the  plants  retain 
their  foliage  throughout  the  year,  the  dark 
winter  spores  not  being  needed,  are  omitted 
in  the  life  cycle  of  the  fungus  and  the  orange- 
coloured  form  of  summer  is  perennial. 

The  Rose  Anthracnose  is  chiefly  charac- 
terised by  the  scarcity  of  leaves.  Instead  of 
a  plant  with  foliage  upon  all  the  canes  there 
are  but  few  leaves  upon  some  stems,  while 
others  are  entirely  defoliated.  The  whole 
plant  is  infested  with  the  fungus,  and  this 


62  ROSES 

parasite  so  saps  the  vitality  and  interferes 
with  the  processes  of  growth  that  the  leaves, 
even  if  they  were  healthy  in  themselves,  are 
unable  to  perform  their  work.  The  fact  is, 
that  the  leaves  are  infested  with  the  anthrac- 
nose  filaments,  and  soon  after  falling,  if  not 
before,  they  will  show  the  spore  formation  of 
the  anthracnose  fungus,  Gloeosporium  rosae. 
In  general  appearance  and  habits  of  growth, 
this  fungus  is  quite  similar  to  the  one  causing 
the  anthracnose  of  the  raspberry;  possibly  it 
is  identical,  and  if  so  the  presence  of  the  one 
is  a  menace  to  the  host  of  the  other. 

The  rose  plant  is  most  likely  to  be  attacked 
while  young,  or  at  least  it  is  to  be  presumed 
that  the  young  portions  of  a  plant  are  most 
susceptible.  The  attack  is  from  without, 
and  the  spores  falling  upon  the  surface  of  the 
young,  tender  canes  and  leaves  as  well,  there 
germinate  and  produce,  in  a  short  time,  an 
affected  spot.  If  this  takes  place  in  a  cane,  it 
is  natural  to  suppose  that  the  portion  above 
the  infested  part  will  be  girdled,  in  so  far  as 
the  attack  is  great,  and  this  will  interfere  with 
the  direct  support  by  the  whole  plant  of  the 
part  beyond  the  diseased  place.  Besides 
this,  the  fungus  spreads,  and  more  rapidly,  in 


INSECTS,    DISEASES    AND    SPRAYING        63 

the  direction  toward  the  tip  of  the  cane.  It 
is  not  unusual  for  a  diseased  plant  to  send  up 
apparently  healthy  shoots  from  near  the  base 
of  the  stem,  but  these  become  infested  in  turn. 

Roses  whose  foliage  has  a  sickly  colour,  and 
whose  leaves  fall,  especially  from  the  tips  of 
the  canes,  prematurely,  may  be  suspected  of 
being  victims  of  the  anthracnose.  A  hand 
lens  should  be  sufficient  to  assist  in  finding 
pinkish  blotches  upon  the  leaves,  particularly 
those  that  lie  upon  the  moist  earth  beneath  the 
half-defoliated  plant.  Similar,  but  better 
defined  pimples  usually  occur  upon  some 
portion  of  the  cane. 

The  multitude  of  spores  produced  in  pim- 
ples upon  canes  and  fallen  leaves,  the  ease 
with  which  they  are  transported  by  water, 
the  rapidity  of  germination — all  these  factors 
combine  to  render  this  fungous  enemy  of  the 
rose  highly  contagious. 

A  coating  of  the  Bordeaux  mixture  upon 
the  leaves  and  stems  prevents  in  large  degree 
the  entrance  of  the  germs.  All  plants  that 
are  nearly  leafless  from  this  cause  should  be 
either  cut  down  close  to  the  soil  or  thrown 
bodily  into  the  burn-heap. 

The    Rose-Leaf    Spot. — Somewhat    similar 


64  ROSES 

to  the  leaf  blight  previously  mentioned  but 
rarely  met  with  is  the  leaf  spot,  due  to  the 
fungus  Cercospora  rosaecola.  This  produces 
spots  that  are  of  a  grey  colour  with  a  dark  pur- 
ple border,  and  the  spores  are  long  and  borne 
in  little  tufts  upon  the  surface  of  the  central 
portion  of  the  dead  areas. 

As  yet  this  leaf  spot  is  not  common,  but 
when  found  at  all  is  often  quite  destructive. 
As  the  spot  fungus  produces  its  spores  on  the 
outside  of  the  plant,  it  is  easily  controlled  by 
fungicides. 

Black  Speck  on  Roses. — Closely  associated 
with  fungous  diseases  of  the  rose,  and  generally 
regarded  as  such  is  the  black  speck.  Little 
round,  black  dots  about  the  size  of  a  pin's 
head  are  seen  scattered  irregularly  on  the 
(generally  lower)  surface  of  the  leaves  or  on 
the  stem,  label  or  stake  near  the  plant. 

This  trouble  is  due  to  the  indirect,  and  not 
the  intentional  action  of  a  fungus,  and  in  this 
respect  is  quite  unusual  and  merits  a  word 
of  consideration.  The  fungus  that  is  the 
source  of  trouble  is  one  of  the  moulds  and 
grows  upon  organic  substances  and  not  upon 
the  rose. 

It  forms  in  large  numbers  upon  the  manure 


LORD   PENZANCE   HYBRID   SWEETBRIERS 

Brenda  on  right,  taken  two  years  after  planting.     Two  seasons  later  the  plants  are  four 
times  as  large.     Very  desirable  where  there  is  plenty  of  space 


INSECTS,    DISEASES    AND    SPRAYING        65 

used  to  cover  the  bed  where  roses  are  growing. 
As  it  matures  a  dark  oval  ball  or  sac  is  pro- 
duced filled  with  spores.  This  black  sac  is 
supported  upon  a  swollen  stalk  rising  from 
the  surface  of  the  manure,  and  when  ma- 
ture the  enlarged  portion,  filled  with  liquid, 
suddenly  forces  off  the  spore  sac  and  collapses, 
throwing  the  ball  of  spores  into  the  air.  These 
dark  spore  sacs  are  covered  with  moisture 
as  they  are  discharged  and  will  adhere 
to  any  object  which  they  may  strike  in  their 
flight. 

The  height  to  which  the  dark  sacs  are 
thrown  is  fully  ten  feet;  but  there  is  a  rapid 
falling  off"  in  the  number  upon  any  given 
area  when  the  height  of  two  or  three  feet  is 
reached. 

These  specks,  of  course,  may  be  upon  any 
plant  that  is  within  range;  but  they  do  no 
further  harm  than  the  disfigurement  thereby 
produced.  They  are  more  often  met  with  in 
rose  houses,  because  there  the  manure  is 
more  frequently  left  upon  the  surface  than 
with  other  kinds  of  plants. 

This  extensive  list  of  things  which  are  pos- 
sible sources  of  trouble  to  the  rose  grower, 
should  not  be  regarded  entirely  as  2  karri- 


66  ROSES 

cade  to  frighten  the  prospective  beginner. 
The  diseases  and  the  insects  exist,  and  they 
may  at  one  time  or  another  make  an  assault 
on  the  rose  garden  or  rose  house.  They  are 
not  among  the  essentials  of  rose  culture,  but  a 
reasonable  knowledge  of  how  to  identify  the 
one  or  the  other  and  how  to  advance  against 
it  is  a  great  aid  to  success.  As  a  rule,  these 
pests  thrive  best  when  the  cultural  conditions 
under  which  the  plants  are  growing  are  of  the 
worst.  It  is  not  true  that  they  are  the 
creatures  of  neglect,  but  they  are  certainly  the 
fruits  of  neglect. 

WHEN  TO  SPRAY  THE  GARDEN  ROSES  AND  HOW 

Dates  based  on  an  average  season  in  New 
York  [Allow  four  days'  difference  for  every 
hundred  miles  of  latitude]. 

Use  the  insecticides  and  fungicides  at  the 
following  strengths: 

Sulphide  of  potassium  in  a  solution  of  one- 
half  ounce  to  one  gallon  of  water. 

Arsenate  of  lead,  five  pounds  to  fifty  gallons 
of  water. 

PPhale-oil  soap,  one  pound  to  eight  gallons 
of  water. 


A  CLOSE  VIEW  OF  THE   ALTAI  ROSE 

This  excellent  shrubbery  rose  has  larger  flowers  and  seems  better  adapted 
to  our  climate  than  the  Scotch  rose,  of  which  it  is  a  botanical  variety. 
Flowers  white,  about  two  and  a  half  inches  across 


INSECTS,    DISEASES    AND    SPRAYING     '  67 

Do  not  use  any  poisons   unless  they  are 

really  necessary. 

Mid-April. — Spray  roses  and  neighbour- 
ing trees  with  Bordeaux  mixture. 

Late  April. — Just  before  leaves  open.  Whale- 
oil  soap. 

May  loth. — Leaves  open.  Potassium  sul- 
phide. 

May  I yth. — Potassium  sulphide. 

May  2 1 st. — Buds  set.     Whale-oil  soap. 

May  24th. — Potassium  sulphide. 

June  ist. — H.P.'s  begin  to  bloom.  Potassium 
sulphide. 

June  7th. — H.P.'s  bloom  in  quantity.  Arse- 
nate  of  lead. 

June  I4th. — H.P.'s  bloom  in  quantity.  Ar- 
senate  of  lead. 

June2ist. — H.P.'s  bloom  in  quantity.  Whale- 
oil  soap  (last  application). 

June  28th. — H.T.  and  T.  in  quantity.  Arse- 
nate  of  lead. 

July  4th. — H.T.  and  T.;  H.P.'s  bloom  ends. 
Arsenate  of  lead. 

July  i  ith. — H.T.  and  T.  in  quantity.  Whale- 
oil  soap. 

July  1 8th. — H.T.  and  T.  in  quantity.  Potas- 
sium sulphide. 


68  ROSES 


July    25th. — H.T.    and    T.'s    bloom    ends. 

Potassium  sulphide  solution. 
August  ist. — Potassium  sulphide  solution. 
August  8th. — Potassium  sulphide  solution.  ' 
August   1 5th. — Potassium  sulphide  solution. 


CHAPTER  V 
THE  ROSARIAN'S  CALENDAR 

The  following  calendar  of  work  in  the  rose  garden  is 
based  upon  experience  in  the  neighbourhood  of  New 
York  City,  and  of  course  is  subject  to  the  usual  variation 
of  dates  according  to  the  distance  north  or  south  of  New 
York.  The  vagaries  of  the  season  must  also  be  taken 
into  consideration.  The  dates  given  are  relative,  not 
absolute. 

March  I5th. — Finish  the  pruning  of  hardy 
varieties  already  planted. 

March  25th. — Plant  new  hardy  roses,  prun- 
ing new  plants  rather  more  severely  than 
those  of  the  same  varieties  already  estab- 
lished. 

April  I5th. — Finish  the  pruning  of  tender 
varieties,  as  far  as  possible,  without  uncov- 
ering completely.  Give  to  all  the  beds  and 
to  any  neighbouring  pear  trees,  grape  vines, 
or  other  plants  subject  to  fungoid  troubles, 
a  good  spraying  of  Bordeaux  mixture  as  a 
preventive. 


7O  ROSES 

April  20th-25th. — Uncover  tender  varieties. 
Plant  any  new  ones  received,  giving  these 
slight  protection  of  loose  hay  for  a  short 
time  over  the  tops,  and  a  rather  severe 
pruning. 

End  of  April. — Roses  generally  in  leaf.  Give 
a  preventive  spraying  of  whale-oil  soap. 
Final  touches  to  pruning. 

May  2Oth. — Buds  forming.  Second  spraying 
of  whale-oil  soap. 

May  25th. — Earliest  roses  bloom  (Scotch 
followed  by  the  Luteas).  Apply  liquid 
manure  to  H.P/s. 

June  5th. — Hybrid  Perpetual  Roses  in  quan- 
tity. Watch  for  rose  bug. 

June  loth. — Third  spraying  with  whale-oil 
soap.  Rose  bug.  Treatment  as  neces- 
sary. Apply  liquid  manure  to  H.T.'s 
and  T/s. 

June  2Oth. — Hybrid  Teas  and  Teas  in  quan- 
tity. Watch  for  rose  bug  and  for  mildew; 
treat  the  latter  with  sulphide  of  potassium. 

July  ist. — Last  spraying  with  whale-oil  soap; 
Hybrid  Perpetuals  decreasing. 

July  loth. — Rose  bugs  disappear.  Com- 
mence regular  applications  for  black  spot, 
if  a  wet  season;  sulphide  of  potassium 


THE    ROSARIAN  S    CALENDAR  JI 

every  week,  or  dilute  Bordeaux  mixture 
every  twenty-four  days,  this  treatment 
depending  wholly  on  weather  and  appear- 
ance of  foliage,  and  lasting,  if  necessary,  to 
August  2Oth. 

July  20th. — Hybrid  Teas  and  Teas  decreasing. 
Mulch  beds  by  this  date  at  the  latest. 

August  joth. — Hybrid  Teas  and  Teas,  second 
bloom  begins,  lasting  until  frost. 

September  I5th. — Second  bloom  of  Hybrid 
Perpetuals  begins,  but  usually  it  is  not 
very  plentiful. 

October  I5th. — Prepare  new  beds  for  the 
next  spring  planting.  Remove  from  old 
beds  any  of  the  mulch  that  cannot  be 
forked  in. 

November  I5th. — Commence  placing  manure 
protection  around  roots,  tenderest  roses 
first. 

November  3Oth,  or  after  a  nip  or  two  of 
decided  frost,  cover  up  tender  roses  for  the 
winter. 


CHAPTER  VI 
ROSES  FOR  CUT  FLOWERS  UNDER  GLASS 

Its  importance — The  style  of  house — Even  span  and 
three-quarter  span — Iron  and  wood  frame — The  cost 
— Benches  or  solid  beds — The  benches — Soil  and 
manures — How  to  compost — Soil  preferences — Filling 
the  benches — Cleaning  the  benches — Lime  and  sul- 
phur wash  —  Planting — Watering — Cultivation — Im- 
portance of  ventilation — Avoid  changes  of  tempera- 
ture— To  prevent  mildew — How  to  use  sulphur — The 
cutical  autumn  period — The  early  firing — Tempera- 
ture— A  combination  of  factors — Time  from  planting 
to  flowers — Prune  when  cutting — Blind  wood  not  of 
importance — Kinds  that  will  grow  together — Roses 
with  carnations — Manuring  and  mulching — Manage- 
ment in  spring — Professor  Stuart's  formula — Quan- 
tities of  fertilisers  to  use — Carrying  over — Treatment 
of  new  plants — Why  buy  from  a  dealer — Propagation — 
Select  flowering  wood — How  to  make  a  cutting — The 
sand  for  propagating — Soil  for  young  plants — After 
the  cuttings  strike — Shifting  into  larger  pots — Sum- 
mer plunging — Spring  care — Flowering  Tea  Roses  in 
pots — Hybrid  Perpetuals  in  pots — All  about  growing 
American  Beauty. 

THE  art  of  growing  roses  under  glass  has 
been    brought    to    its    highest    perfection    in 
72 


CUT   FLOWERS    UNDER   GLASS  73 

America.  The  commercial  importance  of 
this  one  branch  of  the  florist's  trade  is  already 
enormous  and  the  tendency  is  for  its  con- 
tinued increase.  About  2,000,000  square 
feet  of  glass  are  used  in  the  greenhouses 
devoted  exclusively  to  the  production  of  roses 
for  the  cut-flower  market  in  one  large  "rose 
factory"  area  within  twenty-three  miles  of 
New  York  City.  Under  this  cover  an  army 
of  450  men  is  continuously  at  work,  and  fully 
$20,000  a  year  are  paid  for  the  carnage  of  the 
floral  burden  from  the  growing  districts  to  the 
city  market.  These  figures  represent  but  one 
district — the  most  important  one,  it  is  true — 
but  they  should  be  doubled  to  be  fairly  rep- 
resentative of  the  united  sources  of  supply 
for  that  one  city.  This  will  suffice  to  show 
the  immensity  of  the  demand  for  good  roses. 
In  these  establishments  the  operations  are 
carried  out  upon  a  gigantic  scale,  but  in  their 
details  do  not  differ  from  what  is  necessary 
for  the  private  grower  who  desires  to  raise 
roses  under  glass  for  home  use.  If  it  is 
intended  to  grow  roses  at  all,  it  will  be  worth 
while  to  make  one's  plans  to  do  the  work 
thoroughly.  A  "  cheap"  greenhouse  may  be 
a  continual  source  of  worry  and  expense. 


74  ROSES 

THE  HOUSE 

A  good  house  is  essential.  Without  an 
adequate  structure  full  success  cannot  be 
expected.  But  that  statement  need  not  deter 
anyone  from  making  the  attempt  in  a  reason- 
ably well  built  and  sufficiently  lighted  house 
where  the  heat  can  be  had.  The  type  of 
house  most  favoured  for  forcing  roses  was 
formerly  what  is  known  as  the  three-quarter 
span,  in  which  one  side  of  the  roof  was  much 
wider  than  the  other.  Nowadays  opinion  is 
equally  favourable  to  the  even  span.  On  a 
hillside  the  former  style  of  house  is  to  be 
preferred,  as  it  possesses  some  structural 
advantages.  The  long  slope  of  such  a  house 
is  to  be  open  to  the  south,  so  as  to  receive  the 
greatest  amount  of  sunlight.  All  houses  of 
whatever  pattern  will,  of  course,  be  run  east 
and  west.  On  a  hillside  such  a  house  does 
not  have  an  excessively  high  wall  on  the  north 
side  which  it  has,  of  course,  when  built  on  the 
level.  The  three-quarter-span  roof  makes 
the  house  very  high  in  the  centre,  as  a  regular 
pitch  of  seven  and  one-half  inches  to  the  foot 
is  maintained.  The  even-span  house,  in 
which  both  sides  of  the  roof  are  of  the  same 


CUT   FLOWERS    UNDER   GLASS  75 

size  and  the  ridge  is  in  the  centre,  is  perhaps 
to  be  preferred,  as  it  is  cheaper  to  build  and 
costs  less  for  repairs.  On  a  private  place  the 
advantages  of  the  even  span  are  still  greater, 
because  of  the  better  adaptation  of  such  a 
house  to  a  variety  of  uses.  Thus,  if  the 
owner  is  tired  of  growing  roses,  or  has  had  no 
success,  the  house  is  well  adapted  for  some 
other  plant. 

Houses  may  be  either  of  wood,  or  of  wood 
and  iron  combined  (which  is  to  be  preferred). 
This  is  sometimes  referred  to  as  iron  or  steel 
frame,  with  a  wood  veneer  to  act  as  a  cushion 
for  the  glass.  The  iron  house  costs  more, 
naturally,  but  it  lasts  longer.  It  costs  less  for 
repairs  and  admits  more  light,  because  its 
framework  is  more  slender  and  casts  smaller 
shadows.  A  house  suitable  for  roses,  even 
span,  25  x  50  feet,  six-foot  sides,  iron  frame, 
can  be  erected  for  about  $2,200  without 
masonry  work,  but  covering  cost  of  erection, 
cement  walks,  iron  frame  benches  with  tile 
bottom  and  glazed  with  i6x  24-inch  double 
thick  glass;  also  boiler  and  an  adequate 
system  of  four-inch  cast  iron  pipes  to  main- 
tain a  temperature  of  55°  to  60°  in  zero 
weather  and  a  cellar  about  ten  feet  wide 


76  ROSES 

across  one  end  of  the  house.  Such  a  house 
should  have  two  lines  of  ventilators,  at  the 
ridge.  If  the  house  is  to  be  built  with  a  pos- 
sibility of  growing  other  plants  at  any  time, 
side  ventilators  may  be  provided  also,  to  be 
used  when  necessary.  Certain  fluctuating 
charges  on  account  of  freight,  cartage,  ex- 
penses of  workmen,  excavating  and  grading 
would  have  to  be  added  to  the  figure  quoted. 
The  cost  of  these  would  vary  according  to 
local  conditions  and  might  reach  a  total  of 
$700  more,  and  masonry  work  would  consume 
perhaps  $1,000.  Thus  a  sum  of  about  $4,000 
should  be  figured  upon  as  necessary  to  build 
a  really  first-class  house  of  the  most  approved 
modern  type  for  roses,  including  American 
Beauty,  which  requires  more  head-room  and 
more  heat  than  the  other  varieties  commonly 
grown  under  glass.  A  house  of  the  same 
size  built  of  sash  bar,  all  cypress  wood,  and 
without  cement  walks  would  cost  about  one- 
third  less.  An  iron  frame  house  20  x  50  feet 
would  cost  about  $1,900  for  the  superstructure 
and  $900  for  masonry,  including  the  cellar. 
The  height  of  the  sides  modifies  the  cost  of 
the  house  very  materially,  but  necessitates  a 
greater  expenditure  to  maintain  the  required 


CUT   FLOWERS    UNDER   GLASS  77 

degree  of  heat.  In  fact  the  problem  of  what 
house  to  use  is  to  be  looked  at  in  the  light  of 
adjustment  to  circumstances.  The  greater 
the  first  cost,  the  less  the  after  expense,  and 
as  in  all  other  things,  the  best,  in  the  long  run, 
proves  to  be  the  cheapest. 

BENCHES    OR   SOLID    BEDS  ? 

As  to  whether  benches  or  solid  beds  shall  be 
adopted  there  is  a  wide  division  of  opinion. 
The  present-day  trend  is  toward  the  latter, 
especially  for  American  Beauty.  The  Hybrid 
Teas  seem  to  flower  more  freely  when  planted 
in  beds;  on  benches  they  exhibit  a  tendency 
to  become  dormant,  and  cease  growth.  Still, 
benches  are  in  very  common  use  and  give 
abundant  satisfaction,  and  in  a  private  estab- 
lishment the  raised  benches  are  usually  the 
more  convenient  to  manage.  Again,  the 
heating  pipes  will  be  run  under  the  bench  and 
generally  a  neater  appearance  is  presented. 
The  bed  is  certainly  the  more  durable,  and  if 
the  plants  are  to  be  carried  over  for  more  than 
the  one  year  there  is  much  to  be  said  in  its 
favour. 

The  benches  should  hold  about  four  and  a 


78  ROSES 

half  inches  of  soil  and  drainage  may  be  pro- 
vided by  having  the  bottom  pieces  one-half 
inch  or  even  one  inch  apart.  In  solid  beds 
drainage  material — broken  stone — is  filled  in 
for  a  space  of  fifteen  inches  and  a  soil  depth 
of  six  or  seven  inches  allowed. 


THE    SOIL    AND    MANURE 

The  rose  likes  a  rich  soil.  It  is  of  prime 
importance  to  have  proper  soil.  Without  it 
the  finest  house  will  fail  to  produce  good 
roses,  and  with  suitable  soil  one  can  get  along 
very  well  indeed  in  a  make-shift  sort  of  a 
house.  In  many  small  places  where  it  is  not 
practicable  to  give  up  one  house  entirely  to 
roses,  it  is  nevertheless  possible  to  attain  a 
tolerable  result  by  paying  strict  attention  to 
the  soil  requirements.  Much  has  been  writ- 
ten about  soil  for  roses.  That  in  certain  dis- 
tricts better  roses  are  grown  than  elsewhere 
nearby  is  abundantly  true.  All  places  are 
not  equally  well  suited  to  roses,  and  this  local 
adaptation  is  generally  thought  to  rest  upon 
the  soil  rather  more  than  upon  the  climate. 
It  is  important  that  the  amateur  bear  this  in 
mind. 


CUT   FLOWERS    UNDER   GLASS  79 

WHAT    SOIL   TO    USE 

The  soil  should  be  procured  in  the  autumn 
before  the  planting  season,  in  August  or  Sep- 
tember, so  that  the  winter  may  act  upon  it. 
By  preference  get  soil  from  an  old  pasture 
that  has  not  been  cultivated  for  many  years. 
A  heavy  loam  from  grass  land  that  has  been 
regularly  grazed  is  the  ideal  basis  of  the  com- 
post heap  for  roses.  A  good,  tough  sod  full 
of  roots  is  to  be  sought.  It  is  not  the  grass 
tops  which  the  rose  grower  seeks,  but  the 
fibrous  mass  of  root  below.  Having  the 
soil,  stack  it  just  before  winter  in  proportion 
of  three  parts  soil  to  one  of  cow  manure, 
layer  upon  layer,  in  a  mound  of  convenient 
height — about  five  feet;  it  must  not  be  too 
high  nor  too  broad  for  the  frost  to  penetrate. 
Let  it  remain  here  without  any  cover  till 
spring.  In  this  composting  fresh  manure 
can  be  used,  but  if  the  manure  is  added  at  the 
time  the  soil  is  chopped  down  in  the  spring, 
it  must  have  been  thoroughly  rotted  previ- 
ously. 

As  soon  as  the  weather  in  spring  is  "open" 
and  the  soil  sufficiently  dried  out  to  be  worked, 
the  whole  heap  should  be  turned  and  allowed 


8O  ROSES 

to  remain  fully  a  month,  when  it  is  turned 
once  more.  Use  a  spade  in  these  operations. 
One  month  before  the  soil  will  be  carried  into 
the  house  it  should  have  the  final  turning, 
when  bone  meal  (one  part  to  fifty)  or  other 
fertiliser,  as  may  be  desired,  may  be  added. 

To  a  soil  taken  from  a  pasture  yielding  one 
ton  of  hay  to  the  acre  one-fourth  of  its  bulk 
of  manure  may  be  added.  Whereas  a  soil 
from  a  pasture  cutting  two  tons  to  the  acre 
will  not  need  over  one-eighth  of  its  bulk  of 
manure.  At  the  last  turning  of  the  compost 
a  dash  of  lime  and  bone  meal  may  be  given — 
but  neither  in  large  quantities.  It  will  be 
better  perhaps  for  the  ordinary  person  to 
omit  the  lime — which  is  given  only  when 
there  is  an  extra  heavy  soil — and  apply  the 
bone  meal  (or  wood  ashes)  directly  to  the 
soil  in  the  beds  or  benches  as  a  top  dressing 
before  planting,  at  the  rate  of  one  bushel  to  a 
hundred-foot  house  of  the  standard  width  of 
twenty  feet.  Or  figuring  by  weight,  ten 
pounds  each  of  bone  meal  and  wood  ashes, 
or  bone  meal  and  sheep  manure,  to  two  hun- 
dred square  feet  of  glass,  mixed  with  the  soil 
in  the  bench  or  while  turning  outdoors,  will 
be  sufficient.  Some  growers  add  powdered 


CUT   FLOWERS    UNDER   GLASS  8 1 

mica  to  modify  a  light  and  gritty  or  too  sandy 
a   soil. 

VARIETY    PREFERENCES 

Different  varieties  of  roses  show  prefer- 
ences for  different  soils,  but  a  soil  prepared 
as  described  above  will  be  found  to  give  the 
best  results  with  a  majority.  A  soil  that  is 
good  for  almost  all  varieties  will,  if  taken  and 
rubbed  between  thumb  and  finger,  have  a 
mellow,  smooth  feeling.  Perle  des  Jardins, 
La  France,  Duchess  of  Albany  and  Niphetos 
succeed  best  on  a  lighter  type  of  soil,  while  the 
Bride,  Bridesmaid,  Catherine  Mermet,  Mad- 
ame Hoste,  Papa  Gontier,  Souvenir  de  Woot- 
ton  and  American  Beauty  require  a  heavy 
soil  for  their  best  development.  It  is  obvious 
from  this  that  the  varieties  to  be  grown  should 
determine,  in  a  measure  at  least,  the  nature 
of  the  soil  to  be  used.  It  is  generally  con- 
ceded that  roses  grown  on  a  clay  soil  produce 
blooms  of  better  colour  and  substance  than 
those  grown  on  a  lighter  one. 

PLANTING   THE    HOUSE — WATERING 

Planting  is  done  any  time  from  the  early 
part  of  May  to  the  end  of  July.  The  aim 


82  ROSES 

should  be  to  get  all  the  roses  housed  by  July 
ist,  so  that  they  can  make  a  good  growth 
during  the  rest  of  that  month.  Two  weeks' 
growth  then  is  worth  twice  as  much  in  Octo- 
ber or  November. 

The  soil  as  previously  prepared,  by  com- 
posting either  in  the  autumn  or  spring,  is 
brought  into  the  house  and  put  into  the  beds 
in  benches  which  have  been  thoroughly 
cleaned.  It  is  well  to  line  the  bottom  of  the 
bench  with  sod  to  hold  in  the  soil,  putting  the 
grassy  side  downward.  This  is  especially 
necessary  when  the  boards  of  the  bench  are 
placed  an  inch  apart,  as  is  sometimes  the  case. 
Fill  up  the  benches — three  inches  of  soil  is 
the  proper  depth  for  young  roses — and  apply 
such  fertiliser  as  may  be  necessary,  mixing  it 
in  thoroughly  with  the  hands,  at  the  same 
time  picking  out  all  stones  and  any  other 
rough  material.  Finish  it  by  leaving  the 
surface  of  the  bed  rounded  rather  than  level 
to  allow  for  any  subsequent  settling.  Don't 
pound  the  soil,  and  use  a  fork  to  break  up 
any  lumps  if  you  like,  but  the  most  practical 
men  use  their  hands  as  the  levelling  and 
finishing  tool. 

The  actual  work  of  planting  is  easy  enough. 


CUT   FLOWERS    UNDER   GLASS  83 

By  means  of  a  line  mark  off  the  beds  so  as  to 
give  the  plants  fifteen  inches  apart  either 
way,  at  least.  The  young  plants  being  in 
pots  must  be  well  watered  a  couple  of  hours 
before  they  are  to  be  planted;  they  will  then 
leave  the  pots  readily  and  remain  a  solid 
ball.  They  must  not  be  allowed  to  dry  out 
at  this  time.  Gently  disengage  the  roots, 
place  the  plants  in  position  no  deeper  than 
they  were  in  the  pots,  and  firm  well  by  press- 
ure on  each  side  with  the  closed  fist.  The 
larger  plants  should  be  placed  in  the  back 
rows.  An  essential  detail  in  the  planting 
out  from  pots,  whether  it  be  a  rose  or  any 
other  plant,  is  that  the  ball  as  it  comes  from 
the  pot  be  loosened  and  softened,  being  care- 
ful not  to  break  the  roots.  The  object  in 
view  is  to  get  the  soil  of  the  ball  and  that  of 
the  bench  properly  united  so  as  to  be  as 
nearly  as  possible  of  one  texture.  As  soon  as 
they  are  all  planted  give  them  a  good  water- 
ing and  they  will  immediately  begin  to  make 
new  feeding  fibres.  This  watering  is  given 
close  around  the  plants  individually  rather 
than  over  the  whole  bed.  And  this  object 
may  be  assisted  by  leaving  a  slight  shallow 
around  the  plant.  After  this  they  should 


84  ROSES 

never  suffer  for  want  of  water,  neither  should 
they  be  saturated  at  any  time.  Syringing 
overhead  two  or  three  times  a  day  on  very 
hot  days  is  very  beneficial,  and  all  air  possible, 
top  and  sides,  should  be  given,  leaving  an 
approach  for  air  on  top  at  night.  This  treat- 
ment will  make  a  sturdy  growth  and  solid 
wood,  which  enables  the  plants  to  go  suc- 
cessfully through  a  winter  forcing  campaign. 

DISINFECTING   THE    BENCHES 

Preparatory  to  filling  the  benches  with  soil 
it  is  necessary  to  disinfect  the  whole  house. 
Burn  sulphur  on  a  hot  sunny  afternoon,  shut 
up  the  house  tightly  as  soon  as  the  sulphur  is 
well  lighted,  and  leave  all  snug  until  the  next 
morning.  The  benches  must  then  be  washed 
and  cleaned  inside  and  outside,  and  be  given 
a  good  coat  of  hot  lime  wash.  This  will 
destroy  any  insect  or  spores  remaining  in  the 
bench.  This  wash  is  prepared  as  follows: 
To  nine  pounds  of  unslaked  stone  lime  add 
two  pounds  of  powdered  sulphur,  and  water. 
Pour  the  water  over  the  lime  and,  when  it 
commences  bubbling,  pour  in  the  sulphur 
and  stir  until  the  sulphur  is  dissolved;  then 


CUT   FLOWERS    UNDER   GLASS  85 

put  it  on  the  bench  hot.  This  sulphur  in  the 
bench  will  almost  surely  keep  the  roses  free 
from  mildew.  This  wash  helps  to  preserve 
the  wood  of  the  benches  and  it  kills  any 
insects  that  may  be  lurking  in  crevices.  A 
plain  lime  wash  without  sulphur  may  be  used 
if  desired.  The  whole  of  the  house,  walks, 
and  under  benches  must  be  cleaned  up  and 
made  tidy  after  the  planting. 

If  planting  is  done  during  July  the  plants 
have  to  stand  the  strain  of  the  hottest  part 
of  the  summer,  and  it  is  during  their  manage- 
ment at  this  period  that  the  foundation  of 
ultimate  success  or  failure  is  laid.  The  rose 
likes  a  moderately  warm,  moist  condition, 
which  must  be  provided  by  the  grower. 

WATERING 

From  the  day  the  young  rose  plants  are 
put  into  the  benches  they  must  be  watered 
frequently  and  systematically.  Eight  times 
a  day  is  not  too  often  during  the  most  trying 
period  of  the  summer.  There  are  great  dif- 
ferences of  opinion  on  the  subject  of  watering, 
and  there  are  hardly  two  growers  who  treat 
their  plants  alike.  In  cloudy,  rainy  weather 
the  most  careful  manipulation  of  ventilating 


86  ROSES 

and  watering,  coupled  with  the  best  judg- 
ment, are  necessary  to  maintain  the  vigour 
and  the  health  of  the  plants.  It  is  not  then 
safe  to  syringe,  but  moisture  can  usually  be 
provided  by  dampening  the  walks. 

One  successful  gardener  on  a  private 
estate  thus  tells  of  his  method  of  watering: 

"The  first  good  syringing  is  given  at  about 
7  A.  M.,  under  rather  than  above  the  foliage, 
with  the  idea  of  removing  any  insect.  The 
other  six  are  given  above  the  foliage,  more 
to  moisten  the  leaves  and  to  stop  too  rapid 
evaporation  from  them.  The  point  is  this: 
Planted  as  they  are  under  glass  without 
shade,  the  evaporation  through  the  foliage 
is  more  than  the  absorption  by  the  roots. 
By  this  method  I  have  found  that  the  plants 
develop  foliage  more  rapidly  and  of  better 
substance,  consequently  are  less  susceptible 
to  attacks  of  mildew." 

Of  course  care  must  be  exercised  that  the 
beds  are  not  made  over-wet  by  this  treatment. 
If  so  much  time  as  this  needs  is  not  easily 
to  be  given,  the  number  of  syringings  may  be 
reduced  to  two,  but  they  must  of  necessity 
be  heavier  and  the  water  must  be  given 
equally  to  the  soil  and  to  the  foliage.  It  is 


Killarney,  a  Hybrid  Tea  rose  as  grown  under  glass  for  winter  flowers.      This  rose 
is  also  one  of  the  best  for  the  garden 


CUT   FLOWERS    UNDER   GLASS  87 

to  be  observed  that  in  the  case  of  the  frequent 
syringings  the  water  is  kept  from  the  soil 
as  much  as  possible.  The  amateur  is  much 
more  likely  to  err  on  the  side  of  giving  too 
little  water  than  he  is  to  make  the  mistake  of 
giving  too  much.  The  vigour  of  the  plants 
must  be  kept  up. 

After  the  plants  have  been  in  the  benches 
for  two  or  three  weeks  they  will  be  making 
a  good  growth  and  can  be  watered  more 
freely.  Keep  the  surface  of  the  soil  stirred 
and  clear  of  weeds.  But  don't  work  too 
deeply — half  an  inch  is  enough. 

GENERAL    CARE,    VENTILATION    AND 
TEMPERATURE 

From  the  time  of  planting,  pay  strict  atten- 
tion to  the  ventilation.  The  rose  house  must 
be  well  equipped  with  apparatus  so  that  the 
required  conditions  may  be  kept  up  easily. 
Open  the  entire  system  every  day  from  early 
morning  until  after  sunset,  when  the  house 
should  be  half  closed.  Aim  to  keep  the 
temperature  inside  one  or  two  degrees  lower 
than  the  outside  air  during  warm  weather. 
To  do  this  means  to  balance  very  nicely  the 
two  factors  of  (i)  watering  overhead,  and 


00  ROSES 

damping  down  the  house  generally;  (2) 
admission  of  air.  With  full  air  on  and  ordi- 
nary conditions  the  desired  effect  is  main- 
tained by  using  the  hose  under  the  benches 
and  on  the  walks.  Above  all  things  during 
the  summer  stage  avoid  letting  the  house 
get  too  warm.  Sudden  changes  of  temper- 
ature are  most  inimical  and  are  sure  pre- 
cursors of  disease.  Although  it  may  not  be 
safe  to  syringe  during  dull  days,  we  must  at 
the  same  time  watch  for  red  spider,  applying 
the  remedy — water — at  once  if  discovered. 

MILDEW    PREVENTION 

As  a  preventive  of  mildew  (one  of  the 
worst  enemies  during  summer  and  autumn), 
if  sulphur  was  not  used  in  the  whitewashing 
of  the  benches  and  cannot  be  used  on  the 
pipes  it  may  be  put  on  sheets  of  tin  suspended 
from  the  roof.  This  is  easier  and  much 
cheaper  and  more  cleanly  than  dusting.  But 
the  best  preventive  of  mildew  during  summer 
is  abundance  of  air  applied  with  judgment. 
When  sulphur  is  dusted  on  the  plants  they 
should  not  be  syringed  for  two  or  three  days, 
and  the  temperature  during  daytime  in  that 
period  run  up  to  85  and  90  degrees. 


CUT   FLOWERS    UNDER   GLASS  09 

WHEN    AUTUMN    COMES 

The  most  critical  time  of  all  is  as  we  ap- 
proach autumn,  September  and  October. 
Changes  in  the  atmosphere  are  then  sudden 
and  of  great  degree.  The  rose  grower  who 
has  his  house  so  piped  that  he  can  turn  on  a 
little — only  a  little — heat  even  during  Sep- 
tember is  often  very  glad  of  his  foresight. 
Sometimes  for  this  purpose  a  single  pipe  is 
carried  overhead  in  the  ridge,  or  one  on  each 
side  of  the  house  near  the  eaves.  The  night 
temperature  at  that  time  should  not  drop 
below  60  degrees;  it  will  be  better  to  keep 
it  at  65  degrees.  The  cold  nights  are  very 
treacherous  to  the  rose  grower  and  he  must 
be  prepared.  As  the  weather  gets  colder 
the  fire  heat  is  gradually  increased  so  as  to 
maintain  56  to  58  degrees  at  night  for  Teas, 
and  58  to  62  degrees  for  Hybrid  Teas,  except 
Meteor,  which  requires  10  degrees  higher 
both  day  and  night.  In  the  ordinary  rose 
house  a  day  temperature  of  65  degrees  is 
to  be  kept  up.  When  the  thermometer  in- 
side shows  one  degree  above  the  temperature 
outside  open  the  ventilators  on  the  side  away 
from  the  wind  and  at  the  top  one  inch  and 


9O  ROSES 

increase  the  amount  of  air  as  the  heat  inside 
rises.  It  is  most  important  not  to  cause 
sudden  changes.  As  a  rule  we  have  a  good 
many  bright  days  during  September  and 
October,  with  cool  nights — ideal  weather  for 
rose  growing.  Put  on  plenty  of  ventilation 
then  to  harden  the  plants  for  the  winter,  and 
if  the  thermometer  drops  below  60  degrees  at 
night,  keep  on  a  little  fire  and  leave  a  "  crack  " 
open  on  the  top  ventilator,  with  the  side 
ventilators  closed. 

SEVERAL    VARIETIES    IN    ONE    HOUSE 

It  is  of  course  far  better  to  have  one  kind 
of  rose  in  one  house — not  necessarily  one 
variety,  but  varieties  so  much  alike  that  they 
accept  similar  treatment,  as  would  be  the 
case  with  The  Bride  and  Bridesmaid,  the 
two  most  popular  roses  for  white  and  pink 
colours.  This  is  not  always  possible  on  the 
private  place,  and  a  mixture  becomes  neces- 
sary; but  try  to  reduce  the  number  of  varieties 
if  the  best  results  are  sought.  Much  can  be 
done  in  the  heating  arrangements  to  make  the 
house  suitable  for  mixed  varieties  by  having 
one  end  cooler  than  the  other.  With  58 
degrees  at  the  warm  end  and  53  degrees  at  the 


CUT    FLOWERS    UNDER   GLASS  QI 

cool  end  in  ordinary  weather,  dropping  to 
55  and  50  degrees  in  zero  weather  or  below, 
quite  an  assortment  can  be  handled  satis- 
factorily. 

A  good  selection  for  a  private  place  for  all 
purposes  would  be:  The  Bride,  Bridesmaid, 
or  Killarney,  Perle  des  Jardins,  and  Souvenir 
de  Wootton.  Souvenir  de  Wootton  is  not 
equal  to  Meteor  in  colour,  but  it  is  impossible 
to  grow  the  latter  with  the  other  varieties 
named,  as  Meteor  needs  a  night  temperature 
of  65  to  68  degrees,  and  a  day  temperature 
from  72  to  85  degrees.  Kaiserin  Augusta 
Victoria  does  best  in  a  night  temperature 
from  58  to  60  degrees.  Papa  Gontier  and 
Souvenir  de  Wootton  do  best  in  a  night 
temperature  from  53  to  55  degrees,  and  a 
rise  from  10  to  15  degrees  on  bright  days. 
Perle  des  Jardins,  Sunset  and  Papa  Gontier 
will  do  in  the  cooler  part  of  the  house.  Ameri- 
can Beauty,  the  standard  of  merit  in  a  rose 
for  winter  flower,  should  have  a  house  of  its 
own.  It  requires  special  treatment  if  it  is  to 
do  its  best,  and  further  details  for  the  manage- 
ment of  that  variety  are  given  in  another 
section.  It  is  sometimes  grown  in  a  mixed 
house,  where  it  occupies  the  centre  bench 


92  ROSES 

of  an  even  span  because  it  demands  more 
head-room  than  the  other  forcing  roses. 
Liberty  is  another  excellent  dark  rose,  but 
requires  special  treatment,  and  not  everybody 
has  succeeded  with  it.  For  a  fuller  list  of  forc- 
ing roses  the  reader  is  referred  to  the  chapter 
dealing  with  varieties  for  special  purposes. 

ROSES    GROWN    WITH    CARNATIONS 

It  is  sometimes  convenient  to  grow  roses 
with  carnations,  on  the  principle  that  any 
roses  are  better  than  none.  Such  varieties 
as  Papa  Gontier,  Souvenir  de  Wootton, 
Perle  des  Jardins,  Madame  Cusin,  Niphetos, 
Ivory,  and  Golden  Gate  (that  is  the  cooler 
kinds),  can  be  grown  with  carnations  pro- 
viding the  house  is  kept  at  50  degrees 
at  night.  To  grow  these  plants  in  such  a 
temperature  they  require  treatment  a  little 
different  from  that  usually  followed  in  forcing 
roses.  They  should  be  planted  not  later  than 
July  1st,  should  be  good  stock  from  not  less 
than  three-inch  pots,  and  grown  liberally 
on  till  September  1st.  Then  gradually  reduce 
the  amount  of  water  at  the  roots  so  as  to 
get  them  accustomed  to  a  less  amount  of 
humidity  in  the  house  than  is  usually  given 


CUT    FLOWERS    UNDER   GLASS  93 

for  roses.  They  will  show  a  firm,  solid 
wood  by  the  time  the  carnations  are  housed. 
From  this  time  on  the  roses  must  be  kept 
rather  dry,  and  when  watered  be  given  only 
enough  to  moisten  the  soil  through.  Water 
should  only  be  applied  on  bright  days, 
and  then  early  in  the  morning  as  soon  as 
the  sun  is  on  the  plants.  The  soil  around 
the  roots  should  be  made  as  firm  as  possible 
soon  after  planting.  About  the  middle  of 
February  or  early  in  March  the  plants  should 
have  a  good  mulching  of  manure.  By 
April  they  will  want  a  larger  proportion  of 
water,  but  care  must  be  taken  not  to  get  too 
soft  a  growth.  This  practice  is  followed  on 
some  places  and  good  roses  are  cut  all  through 
the  winter. 

Liquid  manure  may  be  given  as  soon  as 
the  plants  are  well  rooted  through  the  bench, 
but  it  must  be  given  with  care.  It  is  well  to 
examine  the  roots  from  time  to  time  to  see 
that  all  is  progressing  favourably. 

MANURING   AND    MULCHING 

With  the  beginning  of  January  generally, 
or  after  two  crops  of  flowers  have  been  cut, 
it  will  be  time  to  feed.  This  can  be  done 


94  ROSES 

either  by  a  mulch  or  by  watering  with  liquid 
manure  made  the  colour  of  strong  tea.  For 
many  reasons  the  liquid  is  better,  although 
some  growers  prefer  the  mulch.  In  using 
a  liquid  you  know  when  the  beds  are  made 
wet,  which  is  not  the  case  if  a  mulch  is  on. 
For  the  latter  use  thoroughly  rotted  cow 
manure  by  preference.  There  is  a  fungus 
which  grows  on  the  manure  and  which 
greatly  disfigures  the  flowers  of  the  roses  by 
producing  little  black  specks,  the  appearance 
of  which  is  avoided  if  the  liquid  is  used. 

In  the  liquid  a  mixture  of  various  animal 
manures  can  be  used — horse,  sheep  and  cow. 
Apply  every  two  weeks.  If  cow  or  horse 
manure  liquid  is  used  alone,  four  or  five  fork- 
fuls to  a  barrel  of  water  (fifty  gallons)  will 
give  a  strong  enough  decoction  for  use  in  the 
early  part  of  the  seasoti.  Of  sheep  manure 
take  four  to  six  quarts  of  the  pulverized 
article  as  sold  in  the  seed  stores  to  a  barrel 
of  water,  and  let  stan  d  for  a  couple  of  days 
before  use. 

About  March,  when  the  sun  begins  to  de- 
velop more  power,  mulch  the  beds  with  a 
dressing  of  thoroughly  spent  manure,  such  as 
comes  from  an  old  mushroom  bed,  or  give 


CUT   FLOWERS    UNDER   GLASS  95 

a  mixture  of  well-spent  cow  manure  and  soil 
in  the  proportion  of  three  to  one. 

If  a  chemical  fertiliser  is  desired,  the  for- 
mula presented  by  Prof.  W.  M.  Stuart 
(Vermont)  may  be  tried: 

6  ounces  nitrate  of  soda. 
12  ounces  superphosphate. 
6  ounces  muriate  or  sulphate  of  potash. 
Dissolve  in  fifty  gallons  of  water  and  apply  over  150 
square  feet  of  bench  surface. 

This  is  a  quick-acting  fertiliser  and  is  pre- 
pared "for  general  results."  Chemical  ma- 
nures should  be  tried  on  a  small  scale  until 
they  are  understood.  The  best  fertiliser  for 
inexperienced  hands  is  animal  manure.  A 
successful  formula  has  been  cow  manure, 
one-half  bushel;  sheep  manure,  six-inch  pot- 
ful ;  and  a  five-inch  pot  of  bone  meal,  to  fifty 
gallons  of  water;  or  instead  of  sheep  manure 
a  four-inch  pot  of  hen  droppings  may  be 
used.  Nitrate  of  soda  or  sulphate  of  am- 
monia, a  three-inch  pot  to  fifty  gallons  of 
water,  gives  excellent  results. 

CARRYING    OVER 

It  is  the  general  practice  when  roses  are 
grown  on  any  large  scale  to  start  the  benches 


96  ROSES 

afresh  each  year  with  new  stock.  This  has 
been  found  to  be  the  most  satisfactory  way, 
as  fresh  soil,  clean  benches  and  new,  vigorous 
stock  are  all  assured.  But  the  plants  can  be 
"carried  over"  for  a  second,  or  third,  or  even 
fourth  year.  The  method  is  to  withhold 
water  gradually,  beginning  at  the  end  of 
June,  until  the  beds  are  quite  dry.  The 
plants  must  then  be  carefully  watched  to 
prevent  the  wood  from  shrivelling.  Syringing 
should  be  done  daily,  and  if  the  weather  is 
very  warm  twice  a  day.  If  the  plants  show 
signs  of  shrivelling  a  slight  watering  should  be 
given  but  not  enough  to  start  the  buds.  At 
the  middle  of  August  the  plants  should  be 
pruned.  Remove  all  but  the  best  wood  and 
shorten  the  other.  As  soon  as  the  cuts  are 
healed  give  a  good  watering  and  then  remove 
all  loose  soil;  mulch  with  half  manure  and 
half  soil;  give  plenty  of  ventilation  night  and 
day  until  the  foliage  shows  a  dark  green 
colour.  Treated  this  way  the  plants  have 
a  period  of  activity,  and  one  of  rest. 

THE    PLANTS   TO    USE 

For  growing  on  a  smale  scale  buy  the  plants 
ail  ready  to  set  out.     It  saves  a  deal  of  trouble 


CUT   FLOWERS    UNDER   GLASS  97 

if  you  can  be  sure  of  getting  good  properly 
developed  plants  propagated  from  healthy 
stock.  Look  out  especially  for  the  eel  worm. 
This  flourishes  most  vigorously  in  a  dry 
soil  and  is  now  not  common  in  commercial 
stock.  The  plant  raiser  is  very  particular 
for  his  own  sake  to  clear  out  diseased  plants, 
and  he  takes  great  precautions  against  eel 
worm  by  sterilising  his  soil  with  steam.  The 
amateur  is  unlikely  to  attempt  this.  On  the 
other  hand,  if  the  home  stock  is  good  it  is 
well  to  propagate  from  that. 

MAKING    CUTTINGS 

In  home  propagation  the  cuttings  should 
be  taken  from  the  plants  in  the  benches 
during  January.  Select  flowering  wood  for 
propagation.  Take  the  last  (say)  six  eyes 
on  the  stem  for  cuttings,  making  them  two 
or  three  eyed.  Insert  in  a  propagating  bed 
in  sand  with  a  bottom  heat  of  70  degrees  and 
a  temperature  of  55  to  58  degrees. 

Before  putting  in  the  sand  for  propagation 
the  benches  should  be  thoroughly  white- 
washed and  drainage  provided.  Place  the 
boards  one-half  inch  apart,  covering  the 
cracks  with  either  moss  or  excelsior;  over 


Qo  ROSES 

this  a  coat  of  crocking  or  cinders,  making 
the  whole  about  two  inches  deep;  level  evenly 
and  beat  down  firmly.  After  this  select  good, 
coarse  grit  sand  and  place  on  a  coat  of  at 
least  two  and  one-half  inches,  beating  it 
quite  firm.  Give  the  whole  a  good  watering, 
and  it  is  ready  for  the  cuttings. 

When  inserting  cuttings  into  the  sand, 
draw  a  line  across  the  sand  about  one  or 
one  and  one-fourth  inches  deep  with  a  blunt 
knife;  place  the  cuttings  in  the  channel  thus 
made,  pressing  down  firmly  to  the  bottom  of 
the  cut.  When  the  row  is  full  press  the  sand 
firmly  against  the  cuttings,  and  with  a  fine 
rose  watering  pot  (not  hose)  give  a  good 
watering.  Repeat  this  as  fast  as  the  cuttings 
are  put  in,  and  do  not  make  too  many  at 
once,  nor  let  them  get  dry  at  the  base  before 
putting  into  the  sand.  Should  it  be  neces- 
sary to  have  strong  fire  heat  to  keep  up  the 
desired  temperature  (55  to  60  degrees,  with 
70  to  80  bottom  heat),  the  cuttings  should  be 
syringed  at  least  once  a  day,  and  if  the  sand 
shows  the  least  indication  of  getting  dry  give 
another  good  watering.  The  floor  of  the 
propagating  house  should  be  kept  moist  all 
the  time,  so  as  to  have  a  nice,  moist  atmos- 


CUT   FLOWERS    UNDER   GLASS  QQ 

phere.  When  taking  the  cuttings  be  very 
careful  to  keep  the  leaf  on.  If  that  is  allowed 
to  fall  off  the  chances  are  greatly  against 
success.  Keep  a  good  circulation  of  air,  as 
otherwise  the  cutting-bench  fungus  is  likely 
to  appear. 

The  cuttings  will  be  rooted  in  about  twenty 
or  twenty-five  days,  which  can  be  told  by 
prying  a  few  out  of  the  sand  by  means  of  a 
wooden  ladle  or  other  similar  handy  article. 
If  they  have  roots  over  one-half  inch  long 
they  are  ready  to  be  potted.  For  this  pur- 
pose use  a  mixture  of  loam  three  parts,  sand 
one  part,  and  rotted  cow  manure  one  part. 
Use  two  or  two  and  one-half  inch  pots  for 
the  first  potting  and  be  sure  to  put  them  in 
firmly,  pressing  down  the  soil  with  the  thumb 
and  finishing  off  with  a  sharp  rap  on  the 
bench.  Place  near  the  glass  and  water 
heavily  only  after  a  few  days.  In  five  or  six 
weeks  shift  on  to  larger  pots — three  or  four 
inch — using  a  compost  as  before  with  bone 
meal  added  at  the  rate  of  two  quarts  to  a 
barrow  load  of  soil,  and  don't  omit  to  pot 
firmly.  Some  growers  give  the  second  shift 
in  three  weeks  and  another  into  six-inch 
pots  five  weeks  later.  Plants  should  be 


IOO  ROSES 

bought    from    the    grower    not    later    than 
May. 

The  potted  plants  must  be  given  attention 
as  regards  ventilation  up  to  the  end  of  April, 
giving  air  only  at  the  ridge.  Use  the  means 
already  told  for  fighting  mildew  and  fumigate 
with  tobacco  for  aphis.  After  June  1st,  air 
may  be  freely  given  top  and  bottom,  syringing 
them  as  necessary  about  once  a  day  to  keep 
them  growing. 

PLANTS    IN    POTS 

Tea  Roses  can  be  successfully  flowered  in 
pots  instead  of  being  put  out  into  benches. 
For  this  purpose  they  are  put  back  into  the 
plunging  material  after  the  final  shifting  into 
six-inch  pots  and  grown  on  until  the  middle 
of  September.  During  August  the  amount 
of  water  is  reduced  so  that  they  get  a  slight 
"rest."  After  being  put  into  the  house  they 
are  mulched  to  the  top  of  the  pot  with  a  mix- 
ture of  cow  manure  and  ground  bone,  about 
twenty  to  one.  Liquid  manure  is  given  in 
December,  using  the  formula  already  advo- 
cated for  the  plants  in  the  benches,  but  it 
can  be  given  more  often — once  a  week. 
These  plants  will  commence  to  flower  in 


CUT   FLOWERS    UNDER   GLASS  101 

about  two  weeks  after  they  are  brought 
inside. 

As  the  mulch  gets  spent  it  must  be  renewed 
about  the  middle  of  December.  When  the 
spring  appears  and  growth  is  more  natural 
the  plants  will  take  more  water.  In  June 
they  are  to  be  taken  out  from  the  house  and 
again  plunged  to  the  rim  and  after  a  little 
while  gradually  get  dried  off  to  rest,  care 
being  had  of  course  that  the  wood  does  not 
shrivel.  They  can  be  shifted  to  larger  pots 
after  about  a  month.  Prune  in  August  by 
cutting  out  all  but  the  strong  young  shoots. 
Water  again  as  signs  of  new  growth  appear 
and  put  into  the  houses  in  September  to  be 
treated  for  another  year  as  already  described. 

Hybrid  Perpetuals  are  less  popular  than 
the  Teas  and  Hybrid  Teas.  Their  treatment 
differs  from  that  accorded  to  the  others  be- 
cause they  are  dried  off  more  thoroughly  and 
rested  completely  for  several  weeks.  The 
pruning  is  done  as  for  the  garden  plants  in 
spring,  but  in  September,  when  the  wood  is 
thoroughly  ripe.  They  are  then  gradually 
brought  into  growth  by  watering  and  are  re- 
moved indoors  as  soon  as  the  buds  are 
plunged  and  there  is  danger  of  frost.  They 


IO2  ROSES 

will  flower  in  three  months  or  a  little  more 
from  starting.  Begin  in  a  low  temperature 
—thirty-five  degrees  at  night,  gradually  in- 
creasing to  forty-five  degrees  at  night,  which 
is  maintained  until  the  buds  are  forming. 
After  the  buds  are  formed  liquid  manure 
can  be  given,  the  same  as  for  Teas. 

GROWING    AMERICAN     BEAUTY    ROSES     UNDER 
GLASS 

The  American  Beauty  Rose  is  one  of  the 
special  high-class  products  of  modern  glass 
gardening.  Its  successful  cultivation  requires 
close  attention  to  many  details.  These  de- 
tails, as  understood  by  professional  florists,  are 
briefly  set  forth  in  this  paper. 

For  propagating,  use  sharp  sand,  four 
inches  deep,  well  firmed  and  kept  at  a  uniform 
temperature  of  fifty-five  to  sixty  degrees,  and 
overhead  temperature  at  from  sixty  to  sixty- 
five  degrees.  The  cuttings  should  be  medium- 
sized  wood  with  two  eyes.  Trim  the  foliage 
in  such  a  manner  as  to  prevent  its  lying  on  the 
sand  and  turning  yellow  from  too  much 
moisture.  Shade  for  a  few  days  by  hanging 
light-weight  muslin  over  the  bench,  but  no 
closer  to  them  than  one  foot  from  the  top  of 


CUT   FLOWERS    UNDER   GLASS  103 

the  bench.  Give  more  space,  if  possible, 
to  prevent  condensation  of  moisture  on 
foliage. 

When  the  cuttings  have  made  roots  an 
inch  long  put  them  in  two-inch  pots  and 
place  them  on  a  bench  in  the  house  with  a 
temperature  of  fifty-six  at  night  and  sixty- 
eight  in  the  daytime.  Shade  for  a  few  days, 
as  mentioned  for  cuttings.  Paper  shading 
is  too  dense  and  is  likely  to  sweat  them  too 
much.  For  potting,  use  the  same  soil  as 
for  general  planting,  adding  a  very  small 
quantity  of  bone  meal.  Shift  into  three-inch 
pots,  then  into  four-inch,  never  allowing  the 
plants  to  become  root-bound. 

Many  a  grower  thinks  additional  bottom 
heat  essential,  but,  while  it  will  root  the 
cuttings  from  three  to  four  days  sooner,  it  will 
be  at  the  expense  of  the  vitality  and  strength 
of  the  future  plant.  In  the  temperature 
described,  the  cuttings  will  usually  take  root 
in  from  thirty  to  thirty-five  days. 

As  soon  as  they  have  roots  from  one-half 
inch  to  an  inch  long,  they  should  be  carefully 
lifted  out  of  the  sand  and  potted  in  two-inch 
clean  pots.  The  best  soil  to  put  young 
roses  into  is  a  fresh  loam.  For  the  first 


IO4  ROSES 

potting  it  should  have  but  very  little  manure 
in  it,  and  if  of  heavy  nature  a  liberal  propor- 
tion of  sand  ought  to  be  added.  In  potting 
the  plants  be  very  careful  not  to  break  the 
young,  tender  roots. 

When  potted  place  them  on  the  bench 
with  some  ashes  or  sand  under  them.  Water 
with  a  fine  rose,  and  should  we  have  bright 
sunshine,  give  a  syringing  overhead  at  least 
twice  a  day,  and  for  about  a  week  shade 
them  during  the  middle  of  the  day  from 
direct  sunshine.  Such  plants  make  good, 
vigorous  stock  if  kept  growing  steadily. 
Never  let  them  get  pot-bound  at  any  time, 
and  shift  as  required.  The  temperature 
should  be  kept  as  nearly  as  possible  to  that 
of  the  propagating  house. 

For  soil,  use  five  parts  of  the  regular  rose- 
house  sod  to  one  part  of  pure  cow  manure, 
put  up  the  previous  autumn  and  thoroughly 
mixed  in  the  usual  way,  by  chopping  down 
and  repiling  at  least  twice  before  using. 
It  is  immaterial  whether  the  soil  is  of  clay  or 
sandy  nature,  as  good  results  may  be  obtained 
from  either  kind. 

In  planting,  fill  the  benches  with  soil  four 
inches  deep,  firming  it  before  setting  the 


CUT   FLOWERS    UNDER   GLASS  IO5 

plants,  which  should  be  fifteen  inches  apart 
both  ways.  Leave  a  slight  depression  around 
the  base  of  the  plant  in  order  that  the  ball 
may  receive  the  direct  benefit  from  a  good 
watering  after  plants  have  been  set.  The 
subsequent  waterings  should  be  very  carefully 
applied  until  heavy  firing  commences,  when 
the  plants  will  be  better  able  to  withstand 
water  to  a  certain  extent.  That  is,  keep  them 
on  the  "dry  side."  If  not  allowed  to  dry 
out,  the  earth  will  become  sour  and  prevent 
root  action.  It  is  essential  at  all  stages  of 
growth  to  keep  the  plants  growing  without 
any  checks,  but  do  not  force  them  or  they  will 
give  poor  results  later  in  the  season. 

The  plants  should  be  disbudded.  Pinch 
off  the  first  crop  of  buds  when  they  have 
shown  colour.  Have  the  plants  well  estab- 
lished before  allowing  them  to  bloom,  being 
careful  not  to  rob  them  of  too  much  foliage. 
Use  judgment  between  the  strong  and  weak 
plants.  When  cutting  the  blooms  from 
young  or  matured  plants,  their  future  growth 
should  be  taken  into  consideration.  Try 
to  determine  how  many  "eyes"  of  the  wood 
should  be  taken  with  the  bud  in  order  that  they 
may  "  break  "  freely  and  to  the  best  advantage. 


IO6  ROSES 

Give  plenty  of  fresh  air,  avoiding  draughts. 
Moisten  the  walks  twice  a  day  in  hot,  dry 
weather;  otherwise  avoid  too  much  moisture. 
Shading  the  glass  has  a  tendency  to  make 
plants  spindling.  Keep  the  house  as  nearly 
as  possible  at  fifty-eight  to  sixty  degrees  by 
night,  and  seventy  to  seventy-five  degrees  by 
day,  excepting  cloudy  days,  when  it  should 
be  kept  at  sixty-five  degrees.  Ventilation 
should  be  given  gradually,  avoiding  extremes. 
Letting  the  temperature  run  too  high  before 
giving  air  is  likely  to  induce  mildew,  black 
spot  and  injury  to  the  buds. 

For  mulching  on  the  beds  use  half  soil  and 
half  cow  manure,  composted  and  made  fine 
under  cover  at  least  four  months  before  using. 
Apply  lightly  in  August,  freely  about  January 
1st,  and  a  light  application  in  April. 

Syringing  should  be  done  on  bright  days 
only,  commencing  early  in  the  day,  but  not 
before  the  sun  is  shining,  in  order  that  the 
plants  may  have  time  to  dry  off  before  sunset, 
particularly  if  the  weather  is  too  warm  for 
firing.  Syringing  is  not  necessary  on  every 
bright  day,  providing  red  spider  has  been 
kept  in  check  from  the  start.  A  good  nozzle 
for  syringing  is  made  by  taking  a  brass  hose- 


Spraying  the  foliage  of  roses  under  glass  to  keep  down  red  spider.     The  spray 
is  directed  at  the  under  side  of  the  leaves 


CUT   FLOWERS    UNDER   GLASS  IO7 

pipe  ten  inches  long,  attaching  thereto  a 
sprinkler  three  inches  in  diameter  at  right 
angles,  with  holes  made  a  trifle  larger  than 
ordinarily  used.  With  a  water  pressure  of 
from  seventy  to  eighty  pounds  directed  to  the 
under  side  of  the  foliage  this  spray  will 
dislodge  the  spider  without  knocking  the 
plants  about  as  much  as  by  the  older  methods. 

Green  aphis  is  likely  to  be  troublesome. 
Do  not  wait  until  it  makes  its  appearance. 
Smoke  the  houses  weekly  in  the  autumn 
with  tobacco  stems  that  have  been  moistened 
with  water  to  prevent  blazing.  Discontinue 
when  the  mornings  become  too  cold  to  admit 
giving  plenty  of  air;  then  tobacco  stems 
should  be  substituted,  being  suspended  under 
the  edge  of  the  bench  in  poultry  netting. 
Stems  will  last  much  longer  used  in  this 
way,  besides  keeping  the  house  sweeter  and 
cleaner. 

For  mildew,  paint  the  flow-pipes  with 
sulphur  mixed  with  water.  This  will  not 
adhere  as  readily  to  the  pipes  as  if  mixed 
with  oil  or  lime,  but  it  will  be  more  efficacious 
in  emitting  the  fumes,  and  is  not  as  injurious 
to  the  pipes.  In  warm  weather,  during  the 
absence  of  firing,  dust  the  plants  with 


IO8  ROSES 

sulphur  mixed  with  air-slaked  lime  and  ap- 
ply with  a  bellows  especially  made  for  this 
purpose,  or  use  "grape  dust"  in  very  much 
the  same  way. 

The  plants  may  be  supported  by  using  two 
wire  canes  or  stakes  five  feet  long  (No.  8  wire) 
for  each  plant  and  held  in  position  one  foot 
from  top  of  stake  by  a  wire  running  lengthwise 
over  the  bench.  To  have  straight  stems  and 
uniform  foliage  the  growth  should  be  kept 
carefully  tied,  giving  all  the  room  that  is 
possible  for  light  and  air. 

When  the  old  plants  have  been  discarded 
and  the  old  soil  removed,  the  bench  bottoms, 
sides  and  corners  should  be  thoroughly 
cleansed  by  scraping  and  brushing.  Then 
fumigate  with  burning  sulphur,  and  after 
the  house  has  been  sufficiently  aired,  white- 
wash inside  of  benches  before  filling  with  new 
soil.  In  this,  as  in  other  horticultural 
operations  of  importance,  avoidance  of  trou- 
ble from  fungous  diseases  depends  largely 
on  cleanliness  and  the  establishing  of  anti- 
septic conditions.  Especially  is  this  true 
when  successive  crops  of  the  same  sort  are 
grown  under  "forcing"  methods. 

Three-quarter-span    houses    of  the    usual 


CUT   FLOWERS    UNDER   GLASS  IOQ 

iron  construction  are  to  be  preferred;  the 
benches  being  four  feet  three  inches  by 
five  inches  deep.  American  Beauties  are 
grown  only  on  the  two  inside  benches  of 
the  house.  Good  results  are  also  obtained 
in  houses  of  "even-span"  with  benches  on 
the  same  level. 


CHAPTER  VII 
TYPES  AND  RACES 

Key    to    the    horticultural    groups — Types    commonly 
grown — Time   of  blooming — The  hardiest  races. 

A  broad  division  of  roses  into  two  great 
natural  classes  may  be  made:  (i)  summer 
flowering  and  (2)  summer  and  autumn 
flowering.  While  certain  individual  roses 
may  be  picked  out  as  typifying  the  many 
groups  into  which  these  classes  are  again  sub- 
divided, such  minute  classification  is  not  a 
practical  one  nowadays.  The  border  lines 
have  been  overlapped  in  all  directions  so  that 
for  garden  purposes  a  broader  significance 
can  be  given  to  many  of  the  old-time  larger 
groups,  ignoring  the  finer  distinctions  of  the 
hair-splitting  rosarians.  For  the  average 
amateur  an  acquaintance  with  the  Hybrid 
Perpetual,  Hybrid  Tea,  Tea,  Noisette,  Multi- 
flora  (Rambler),  and  Rugosa  and  Wichura- 
iana  is  all  that  is  necessary.  In  many  cases 
there  are  perpetual  flowering  forms  of  the 
no 


TYPES    AND    RACES  III 

summer  flowering  groups,  and  climbing  forms 
of  many  bush  types  are  in  cultivation,  so 
that  an  exact  classification  long  ago  became 
difficult,  and  the  condition  is  more  trying  as 
time  sees  new  arrivals. 

A  KEY  TO  THE  GARDEN  GROUPS  OF  ROSES 

CLASS    I. — SUMMER   FLOWERING   ROSES,   BLOOMING  ONCE   ONLY 

A.  Large  flowered  (double). 

B.  Growth  branching  or  pendulous;  leaf  wrinkled. .  .Provence, 

Moss,  Pompon,  Sulphurea. 

BB.  Growth  firm  and  robust;  leaf  downy. . .  .Damask  and  French, 
Hybrid  French,  Hybrid  Provence,  Hybrid  Bourbon,  Hybrid 
China. 

BBB.  Growth  free;  leaf  whitish  above,  spineless Alba. 

AA.  Small  flowered  (single  and  double). 

B.  Growth  climbing;  flowers  produced  singly Ayrshire. 

BB.  Growth  climbing;  flowers  in  clusters. . .  .Evergreen,  Semper- 
virens,  Wichuraiana,  Cherokee,  Banksian. 

BBB.  Growth  short  jointed,  generally,  except  in  Alpine Briers, 

Austrian,  Scotch,  Sweet,  Penzance,  Alpine,  Prairie. 
BBBBB.  Growth  free;  foliage  wrinkled Pompon. 

CLASS    II — SUMMER  AND   AUTUMN   FLOWERING   ROSES,   BLOOMING  MORE 
OR    LESS    CONTINUOUSLY 

A.  Large  flowered. 

B.  Foliage  very  rough Hybrid  Perpetual,  Hybrid  Tea, 

Perpetual,  Moss. 

BB.  Foliage  rough Bourbon,  Bourbon  Perpetual. 

BBB.  Foliage  smooth China,  Tea,  Lawrenceana  (Fairy). 

\A.  Smaller  flowered. 

B.  Foliage  deciduous. 
C.  Habit  climbing. 

D.  Cluster  flowered Musk,  Noisette,  Polyantha, 

Wichuraiana  hybrid. 

DD.  Flowers  solitary Ayrshire  Perpetual. 

CC.  Habit  dwarf,  bushy Perpetual  Briers,  Rugosa, 

Lucida,  Blanda,   Microphylla,  Berberidifolia,  Scotch. 

BB.  Foliage  more  or  less  persistent Evergreen,  Macartney, 

Wichuraiana. 


112  ROSES 

FEATURES  OF  THE  MORE  POPULAR  GROUPS 

ALBA  OR  WHITE  ROSE. — A  small  group, 
little  known.  Habit:  Free  growing.  Foli- 
age: Whitish  above;  deep  green  below. 
Prickles:  None,  in  type,  but  hybrids  with 
other  groups  have  prickles.  Flowers:  Light 
colours,  medium  size.  Flower  once.  Cul- 
ture: Adapted  to  any  soil;  prune  closely. 
Type:  Felecite  Parmentier. 

ALPINE  OR  BOURSALT. — Habit:  Climbing; 
long,  flexible,  reddish-coloured  shoots.  Foli- 
age: Glabrous,  seven  to  nine  leaflets,  gland- 
ular. Prickles:  Generally  none.  Flower: 
Purple  or  crimson,  mostly;  in  large  clusters. 
Bloom  once.  Culture:  Adapted  for  shady 
places;  prune  by  thinning  freely,  but  leave 
flowering  wood.  Type :  Amadis. 

AYRSHIRE.  —  Habit:  Climbing,  slender 
shoots,  rapid  growing,  fifteen  to  twenty  feet 
in  one  season.  Foliage:  Five  leaflets,  dull 
above,  sometimes  pubescent  beneath.  Tex- 
ture thin.  Prickles:  None  or  very  few. 
Flowers:  Produced  singly,  moderate  size, 
two  and  one-half  inches  across.  White  to 
deep  crimson.  Bloom  once.  Culture:  Hardy, 
but  not  so  hardy  as  the  Prairie  Roses.  Do 


TYPES    AND    RACES  113 

not  require  rich  soil.  Prune  very  little. 
Type:  Queen  of  the  Belgians. 

BANKSIA.  — Habit:  Climbing,  slender; 
rapid  grower.  Foliage:  Dark  green,  glossy, 
often  only  three  leaflets.  Prickles:  None. 
Flowers:  Small  (one  inch  across)  in  umbels, 
once  in  the  season — May.  Culture:  In  rich 
soil  in  greenhouses  in  the  North.  Prune 
very  sparingly.  Type:  Yellow  (scented  like 
violets). 

BENGAL  OR  CHINA  (Monthly  Rose). — 
Habit:  Moderate,  branching  growth  three  to 
five  feet  high.  Foliage:  Glaucous  green,  dark 
above,  pale  beneath,  three  to  seven  leaflets. 
Prickles:  Brownish-red.  Flower:  Profuse 
when  well  grown.  Not  fragrant.  Small. 
Produced  all  summer.  Culture:  Rich  soil. 
Prune  close.  Type:  Agrippina. 

BOURBON. — Habit:  Vigorous.  Intermedi- 
ate between  Bengal  and  Damask,  with  great 
range.  Foliage:  Dark,  lustrous,  seven  leaf- 
lets. Prickles:  Various.  Flowers:  Light 
shades,  generally  with  some  purple,  and  pro- 
duced in  clusters  all  summer  (some  few  do  not 
bloom  freely  in  autumn).  Culture:  Rich  soil. 
Prune  closely.  If  the  shoots  are  cut  back 
immediately  after  flowering  bloom  will  be 


114  ROSES 

continuous  till  frost.  Moderately  hardy. 
"Type:  Hermosa. 

BRIERS. — Austrian,  Scotch,  Sweet,  Pen- 
zance.  Habit:  Short  jointed,  branching 
freely.  Foliage:  Small,  spiny,  fragrant  in 
Sweetbrier.  Prickles:  Abundant,  except  in 
alpine.  Flowers:  Small.  Yellow  in  Austrian. 
Short  lived.  Bloom  once.  Culture:  Scotch 
grows  well  in  sandy  soil.  Sweetbriers  like 
a  heavy  rich  soil.  Prune  by  removing  some 
of  the  oldest  shoots.  All  are  hardy.  Do  not 
respond  greatly  to  high  cultivation.  Type: 
Rosa  spinosissima. 

Austrian  Briers  have  chocolate-brown  bark. 
Demand  dry  soil.  Flowers,  yellow.  Type, 
Persian  yellow. 

Scotch  Roses  are  excessively  spiny  and 
sucker  freely. 

Sweetbriers  have  fragrant  foliage  and  deco- 
rative fruits.  Flowers,  light  coloured  and 
small. 

Penzance  Hybrid  Sweetbriers  are  hybrids 
from  the  Sweetbrier,  sixteen  varieties,  all 
good.  Lord  Penzance  is  the  prettiest  in 
colour,  while  Minna  and  Green  Mantle  are 
most  fragrant.  They  should  have  a  high 
trellis  and  be  at  least  eight  feet  apart.  To 


THE   BEST  ROSE   FOR  HEDGES  AND  SEASIDE 

Rosa  rugosa,  a  Japanese  species  with  thick,  dark  green,  glossy  wrinkled  leaves. 
Free  from  insects  and  disease.     The  large  red  hips  last  into  winter 


TYPES    AND    RACES  1 15 

prune,  shorten  back  the  over-vigorous  growth 
and  remove  some  of  the  oldest  shoots. 

DAMASK  AND  FRENCH. — Habit:  Robust 
green  shoots,  vigorous  grower.  Foliage:  Five 
to  seven  leaflets,  downy,  coriaceous.  Pale 
green  in  Damask,  dark  green  in  French. 
Prickles:  Very  numerous  in  Damask;  slightly 
fewer  in  French.  Flower:  Generally  flat. 
Those  of  French  Rose  bleach  in  sunlight  and 
develop  perfume  in  dried  petals.  Damask 
Rose  loses  scent  on  drying.  Flower  once.  Cul- 
ture: Suited  to  any  soil,  very  hardy.  Prune 
by  thinning  out  the  abundant  shoots.  Gener- 
ally superseded  by  the  hybrid  of  other  groups. 
Types:  Mme.  Hardy  (Damask),  Boule  de 
Nantenie  (French).  Variations:  Hybrid 
French,  less  robust,  smoother,  short-jointed 
wood.  Hybrid  China,  derived  from  French, 
Provence,  Noisette,  or  Bourbon.  More  dif- 
fuse growth,  foliage  shining,  enduring  late 
in  the  season.  Very  hardy,  adapted  to  poor 
soils.  Prune  but  slightly.  The  so-called 
Hybrid  Perpetuals,  which,  however,  bloom 
but  once  in  summer,  and  which  have  helped  to 
diminish  the  proper  appreciation  of  that 
class,  are  properly  Hybrid  China  Roses. 
Type:  Mme.  Plantier. 


Il6  ROSES 

EVERGREEN  (SEMPERVIRENS).  —  Habit: 
Climbing.  Very  vigorous.  Reddish  bark. 
Foliage:  Dark  green,  retained  late  in  the 
season.  Seven  leaflets,  glabrous.  Prickles: 
Hooked.  Flowers:  Scanty  in  corymbs,  once 
in  June.  Culture:  Hardy.  Prune  by  cut- 
ting out  entirely  shoots  that  need  thinning. 
Type:  Felicite  Perpetuelle. 

HYBRID  PERPETUAL. — The  most  important 
group  for  general  garden  cultivation.  For 
practical  purposes  of  the  amateur  all  the 
sundry  roses  which  bloom  once  in  the  sum- 
mer and  again  more  or  less  intermittently 
in  the  autumn  are  now  included  here.  Hybrid 
China  Roses  differ  from  Hybrid  Perpetuals 
in  that  they  bloom  once  only,  in  summer. 
Habit:  Various.  Generally  stiff,  upright, 
sometimes  inclined  to  pendulous.  Foliage: 
Dull  green,  wrinkled,  not  shiny.  Prickles: 
Various,  generally  strong  and  fairly  abundant. 
Flowers:  Of  all  types,  partaking  of  Tea, 
Damask,  French,  Bourbon,  etc.,  produced 
in  summer  and  autumn.  Culture:  Good  gar- 
den soil,  rich  and  deep,  inclined  to  heavy. 
Prune  by  cutting  back,  according  to  habit; 
if  very  vigorous,  prune  less  severely  than  if 
weak,  as  heavy  pruning  tends  too  much  to 


TYPES    AND    RACES  II J 

wood  production.  Examples:  Mme.  Gabriel 
Luizet,  American  Beauty. 

HYBRID  TEA. — The  most  popular  roses 
for  all-round  cultivation  in  the  garden  and 
under  glass.  Habit:  Intermediate  between 
that  of  the  Tea  and  Hybrid  Perpetual. 
Foliage:  Rougher  than  in  the  Teas  and 
slightly  wrinkled;  not  so  rough  as  in  the 
Hybrid  Perpetuals.  Prickles :  Generally 
large  and  strong,  though  not  very  abundant. 
Occasionally  very  few.  Flowers:  Of  various 
types,  generally  well  formed,  with  a  large 
number  of  petals  and  an  elongated  bud- 
Bloom  throughout  the  season.  Culture: 
Same  as  for  the  Teas,  except  that  as  a  class 
they  require  less  protection.  Examples: 
Killarney,  Kaiserin  Augusta  Victoria,  The 
Bride,  etc. 

MULTIFLORA  (Rambler  Roses). — Habit  : 
Climbing  or  recurving;  very  vigorous,  green 
shoots.  Foliage:  Bright  green,  slightly  hairy, 
serrate,  nine  leaflets.  Prickles:  Abundant 
and  strong.  Flowers:  In  pyramidal  corymbs, 
once  in  the  season.  Culture:  Good,  rich 
garden  soil.  Prune  by  cutting  out  old  canes 
that  have  flowered.  Type:  Crimson  Ram- 
bler. This  group  has  been  hybridised  with 


Il8  ROSES 

other  climbing  roses  and  is  very  uncertainly 
defined. 

MUSK  AND  NOISETTE.  —  Habit:  Slender 
shoots,  half  climbing,  six  feet  in  height. 
Foliage:  Shiny,  usually  pubescent  beneath 
five  to  seven  leaflets.  Prickles:  Moderate  in 
quantity,  hooked,  reddish.  Flowers:  Pale 
colours,  including  the  best  yellows,  very 
fragrant,  generally  in  clusters.  Culture  : 
Good  garden  soil;  requires  slight  protection 
in  winter.  Treated  generally  as  the  Teas. 
Prune  moderately.  Type:  Cloth  of  Gold 
(Chromatella). 

PRAIRIE. — Habit:  Climbing,  rapid  grow- 
ing. Foliage:  Five  to  seven  leaflets,  dark 
green,  rough,  large.  Prickles:  Stout  and 
moderately  numerous.  Flowers:  In  clusters, 
once,  late  in  the  season.  Culture:  Any  gar- 
den soil.  The  Prairie  Roses  thrive  over  a 
greater  extent  of  territory  than  any  other 
group.  Prune  but  slightly,  cutting  out  old 
canes  as  necessary.  Type:  Baltimore  Belle. 

PROVENCE. — Habit:  Branching,  pendulous 
and  straggling.  Foliage:  Large,  broad, 
wrinkled,  deeply  serrate.  Seven  leaflets  gen- 
erally. Prickles:  Sometimes  fine  and 
straight,  sometimes  coarse  and  hooked. 


TYPES   AND    RACES  IIQ 

Flowers:  Large,  globular,  with  a  great  num- 
ber of  petals.  Very  fragrant.  Blooms  once 
only.  Culture:  Rich  soil;  prune  closely, 
unless  very  vigorous.  Type:  Cabbage  Rose. 
Sub- Varieties:  Moss  Roses.  Pompon,  dwarf, 
with  cupped  flowers. 

RUGOSA.  —  Habit:  Dense  bushes,  short 
jointed.  Foliage:  Shiny,  much  wrinkled, 
very  dark  green,  remarkably  free  from  insect 
pests.  Prickles:  Numerous  and  stout,  but 
small.  Flowers:  Single  or  double,  produced 
intermittently  throughout  the  season.  Pink 
or  white,  followed  by  handsome  fruits.  Cul- 
ture: Does  well  in  any  garden  soil  and  is  well 
adapted  for  seaside  planting.  Prune  by 
cutting  out  nearly  all  old  wood  and  shortening 
the  remainder.  Examples:  Rosa  rugosa, 
Mme.  Georges  Bruant. 

TEA. — Habit:  Slender  growing  bushes, 
branching  freely.  Bark  smooth,  shiny.  Foli- 
age: Smooth,  shiny,  never  rough  or  hairy. 
Young  growths  often  copper  coloured. 
Prickles:  Moderately  abundant,  or  almost 
absent  in  some  varieties.  Flowers:  Generally 
light  coloured,  darkened  where  exposed  to 
the  sun.  Tea  scented.  Produced  through- 
out the  entire  season — a  really  perpetual  class. 


I2O  ROSES 

Culture:  Very  rich  soil,  thoroughly  well 
drained.  Protection  in  winter  is  necessary 
except  in  the  real  South  or  in  California.  In 
the  climate  of  the  East  and  North  the  Teas 
are  not  hardy.  Prune  by  cutting  back  hard. 
Example:  Isabella  Sprunt. 

WICHURAIANA  HYBRIDS  (R.  Wichuraiana 
X  Teas  or  Hybrid  Perpetuals).  —  Habit: 
Prostrate,  slender;  green  bark.  Foliage: 
Small,  glabrous,  nine  leaflets,  half  evergreen. 
Prickles:  Hooked,  small.  Flowers:  Small, 
numerous,  in  corymbs,  July  to  September. 
Culture:  On  any  sort  of  soil;  does  well  in  all 
sorts  of  situations.  Prune  only  as  necessary 
to  the  overcrowded  shoots.  Type:  Dawson. 
This  is  a  new  group  of  immense  importance 
to  American  gardens,  yielding  the  best  climb- 
ing roses  for  porch  or  trellis. 

WHEN   THEY    BLOOM 

The  Hybrid  Perpetual  varieties  have  one 
period  of  bloom,  from  about  June  5th  to  July 
5th.  If  judiciously  cut  back  after  blooming, 
some  additional  flowers  may  be  expected  in 
mid-autumn.  But  as  a  rule  the  term  "per- 
petual" is  a  very  misleading  name  with 
American  conditions  of  climate.  This  is  the 


A  NEARLY  SINGLE  FORM  OF  THE   PROVENCE   ROSE 

The  French  rose  and  the  Damask  rose  have  been  hybridised  with  the  Tea 
and  other  China  roses,  producing  the  Hybrid  Perpetual  class,  which  includes 
nearly  all  the  common  garden  roses 


TYPES    AND    RACES  121 

reason  why  so  many  people  are  disappointed, 
who  expect  these  roses  to  flower  freely  a  second 
time,  as  described  in  English  books,  which 
treat  of  English  conditions.  The  Provence 
and  Damask  Roses  also  bloom  between  June 
5th  and  July  5th. 

The  Teas,  Hybrid  Teas  and  Bourbons  have 
two  distinct  periods  of  bloom,  namely,  from 
about  June  I5th  to  July  25th,  and  again  from 
the  beginning  of  September  until  cut  down 
by  frost. 

The  China  (or  Bengal)  and  Polyantha  Roses 
bloom  off  and  on  at  intervals  throughout  the 
season.  Few  of  them  attain  to  any  great  size 
of  flower,  and  most  of  the  Polyanthas  bloom 
in  clusters  of  miniature  roses.  But  both  are 
very  useful  at  times,  when  few  other  roses  can 
be  had,  and  no  garden  of  any  large  size  should 
be  entirely  without  them.  They  should  be 
bedded  apart  from  the  larger  growing 
varieties,  for  most  of  them  are  small  growers; 
but  this  rule  is  by  no  means  absolute;  Eugene 
Beauharnais  (Bengal)  and  Marie  Pavie  (Po- 
lyantha), for  example,  being  very  large  bushes. 

Rugosas,  owing  to  their  very  bushy  growth, 
should  be  in  separate  beds.  Four  feet  be- 
tween plants  will  be  none  too  much.  They 


122  ROSES 

bloom  once  profusely,  and  off  and  on  sparingly 
thereafter. 

The  climbers  follow  their  races  in  periods 
of  bloom,  the  climbing  Perpetuals  blooming 
once  and  the  climbing  Teas  having  two  good 
periods  of  bloom.  The  Noisettes  have  the 
Tea  habit;  the  climbing  Hybrid  Polyanthas 
(which  includes  the  Ramblers),  and  also  the 
Wichuraiana  Hybrids,  bloom  but  once. 

The  climbers  of  any  given  race  take  much 
longer  to  be  established  than  the  non-climbing 
varieties.  Climbers,  if  planted  in  a  row 
along  a  fence  or  trellis,  should  be  at  least  four 
feet  apart.  Several  varieties  need  twice  the 
space  between  plants.  Their  soil  should  re- 
ceive at  least  as  deep  cultivation  as  the  ordi- 
nary rose  beds  and  the  plants  themselves 
should  not  be  forgotten,  as  they  often  are, 
when  the  food  supplies  are  going  around. 

THE    HARDIEST    RACES 

The  Hybrid  Perpetuals  and  Rugosas  are 
absolutely  hardy  in  the  latitude  of  New  York 
and  for  some  distance  north,  and  require  no 
protection.  Polyanthas  do  not  need  much, 
and  indeed  usually  get  along  well  enough 
without  any  overcoat.  All  other  kinds  are 


TYPES    AND    RACES  123 

more  or  less  tender.  If  the  owner  is  satisfied 
with  a  single  month  of  bloom  and  cannot 
devote  the  necessary  time  and  attention  to 
protecting  other  varieties,  then  all  the  roses 
should  be  selected  from  among  the  Hybrid 
Perpetuals  and  Rugosas  and  the  hardy 
climbers. 

In  any  case,  start  with  the  very  best  field- 
grown  plants  that  can  be  found.  Inferior 
stock  is  dear  at  any  price,  and  plants  grown 
in  greenhouses  cannot  be  relied  upon  to  sur- 
vive the  winter  out  of  doors. 


CHAPTER  VIII 
ROSES  FOR  SPECIAL  PURPOSES 

Abbreviations. — (B.),  Bourbon;  (D.),  Damask;  (F.), 
French  or  Gallica;  (H.B.),  Hybrid  Bourbon;  (H.C.), 
Hybrid  China ;  (H.N.),  Hybrid  'Noisette ;  (H.P.), 
Hybrid  Perpetual,  including  some  of  the  hybrid  Bour- 
bons; (H.T.),  Hybrid  Tea;  (M.),  Multiflora;  N.), 
Noisette;  (P.)>  Prairie  (roses  derived  from  R.  setigera); 
(R.H.),  Rambler  hybrids  (Crimson  Rambler,  one 
parent);  (T.),  Tea-scented,  (W.H.),  Wichuraiana 
hybrid. 

WE  can  have  roses  almost  anywhere.  It 
is  even  possible  to  have  them  in  poor, 
sandy  soil,  but  it  is  not  possible  to  have  the 
best  double  varieties  without  the  best  soil 
and  the  best  care.  There  can  be  roses  on 
walls,  on  trellises,  on  tree  trunks,  on  arbours, 
in  the  city  garden,  at  the  seashore,  and  about 
the  mountain  home  where  your  summer  is 
enjoyed.  There  are  roses  that  bloom  in  the 
summer,  others  that  make  the  garden  glow 
in  autumn,  and  some  that  are  so  lavish  with 
flower  that  they  repeat  their  gifts  of  colour 
124 


ROSES    FOR   SPECIAL    PURPOSES          125 

and  fragrance  through  the  season.  As  a 
whole,  the  rose  family  asks  for  a  deep,  rich 
and  heavy  soil;  but  the  Burnet,  or  Scotch, 
roses  will  thrive  in  sand;  so  will  the  Memorial, 
or  Wichuraiana — and  there  are  a  score  of 
excellent  varieties  derived  from  this  which 
make  rampant  growth  with  almost  no  soil  at 
all,  and  seem  not  to  ask  much  care. 

We  have  been  so  long  trained  to  think  and 
speak  of  roses  as  only  for  their  individual 
flowers  that  whole  groups  and  families  of 
kinds  that  do  not  make  a  great  display  of 
specimen  individual  flowers  have  been  almost 
lost  to  the  sight  of  the  ordinary  individual.  It 
is  not  true  that  all  roses  are  ugly  plants,  to  be 
regarded  only  as  the  means  of  producing 
glorious  roses,  and  that  therefore  their  proper 
place  is  in  an  out-of-the-way  corner  where 
they  will  never  be  seen.  Roses  there  are 
which  are  as  good  material  for  the  garden 
picture  as  any  other  of  the  flowering  shrubs. 
Let  us  have  roses  about  our  homes,  and  in 
every  garden.  If  there  is  no  other  possibility, 
plant  a  climber  to  ramble  over  the  piazza  and 
show  its  rose  buds  about  the  window  frame. 
Elsewhere  have  walks  of  roses,  arbours  of 
roses,  pillars  of  roses,  roses  climbing  up,  and 


126  ROSES 

roses  in  wreaths  hanging  down,  and,  indeed, 
roses  everywhere.  Grow  them  for  their 
colour,  for  their  fragrance,  and — because 
they  are  roses! 

How  to  do  this  ?  Select  the  proper  vari- 
eties of  the  proper  groups,  and,  above  all, 
don't  put  up  a  fight  against  the  inherent 
nature  of  particular  plants,  for  it  will  be  a 
losing  struggle,  and  there  is  no  lasting  pleas- 
ure in  that  sort  of  gardening.  Certain  con- 
ceits of  rose  culture  demand  special  methods 
of  setting  about  the  desired  end.  Unless  you 
are  wonderfully  favoured,  standards  are  not 
possible  under  the  usual  method  of  perma- 
nent planting,  and  it  then  becomes  necessary 
to  take  them  into  trenches  each  winter. 
Again,  climate  controls  the  rose  grower;  a 
garden  of  Teas  and  other  of  the  tender  roses 
which  is  an  easy  matter  in  the  South  and  on 
the  Pacific  Coast  is  not  a  question  of  prac- 
tical gardening  in  the  East  and  the  North. 
The  gardener  has  to  make  his  garden  from 
the  best  possibilities,  and  the  more  this  is 
realised  the  less  apparent  is  the  effort. 
American  gardens  have  at  hand  a  rich  mass 
of  available  material  for  rose  effects  without 
a  slavish  adherence  to  the  better  known  gar- 


ROSES    FOR    SPECIAL    PURPOSES  127 

den  roses  of  the  Hybrid  Perpetual  and  Hybrid 
Tea  or  pure  Tea  types.  Even  the  native 
species  are  of  importance,  especially  for 
shrubbery  effects.  What  better  than  the  bright 
red  bark  of  Rosa  blanda,  massed,  in  the 
winter  landscape!  The  Multiflora  group,  as 
represented  by  the  now  ubiquitous  Crimson 
Rambler,  has  opened  the  eyes  of  thousands 
of  suburban  home  makers  to  the  possibilities 
of  roses  other  than  the  ordinary.  It  is  realised 
that  there  are  roses  for  many  purposes,  and 
the  Crimson  Rambler  itself  has  become  a 
many-purposed  rose.  How  great  a  reality 
it,  and  its  contemporary  arrival — the  Wichu- 
raiana — have  become,  will  be  better  under- 
stood by  a  reference  to  the  following  lists. 
These  two  roses  must  be  regarded  reverently 
by  the  progressive  rosarian  on  account  of  what 
has  been  accomplished  through  their  accept- 
ance as  garden  plants.  They  have  helped 
the  million  to  learn  that  there  are  roses  and 
roses — and  roses;  that  there  are  varieties 
for  all  kinds  of  purposes,  and  that  a  rose 
garden  is  a  possibility  anywhere  if  there 
is  a  foot  or  two  of  soil  and  a  few  rays  of 
sunshine. 

What  everybody  wants,  and  what  we  shall 


128  ROSES 

never  get  is  a  perfect  double  rose  that  is  fra- 
grant, and  borne  in  great  profusion  on  a  bush 
that  is  beautiful  even  when  out  of  bloom,  and 
which  will  grow  without  care,  is  free  from 
insects  and  diseases  and  will  not  die  in  the 
winter.  There  are  roses  in  Europe  that  come 
within  a  mile  of  this  ideal,  but  rose  culture  in 
America  is  still  in  its  infancy.  Our  climate 
is  fundamentally  different  from  that  of 
Europe,  and  the  roses  of  the  future  must  be 
hybrids  of  the  best  double  roses  of  the  Old 
World  with  the  hardy  roses  of  Japan,  which 
are  better  adapted  for  plant-breeding  pur- 
poses than  the  wild  rose  of  the  Northeastern 
United  States.  Meanwhile  we  must  endure 
the  nuisance  of  budded  roses.  Many  desir- 
able varieties  are  not  strong  growing  enough 
and  have  to  be  grafted  upon  the  roots  of 
stronger-growing  species.  The  latter  natu- 
rally throw  out  suckers  which  will  strangle  the 
choice  variety  unless  they  are  watched  daily 
and  the  suckers  removed.  By  deep  planting 
the  budded  part  may  be  induced  to  make 
roots,  and  the  original  root  dying,  " own-root" 
plants  will  result.  The  common  roses  that 
everybody  grows  are  the  Hybrid  Perpetuals, 
or  H.  P.'s  as  they  are  commonly  called. 


ROSES    FOR    SPECIAL    PURPOSES  I2Q 

This  class  includes  practically  all  of  the  im- 
portant double  roses  that  are  supposed  to 
be  hardy  in  the  North.  This  class  has  been 
created  by  hybridising  the  French  Rose  and 
the  allied  Damask  Rose  with  the  China  Rose, 
of  which  the  Tea  Rose  is  the  favourite 
type.  The  Tea  Rose  is  the  most  fragrant 
and  has  the  most  beautiful  bud  of  any  Rose, 
but  the  main  reason  for  crossing  it  with 
the  roses  of  Western  Europe  is  its  ever- 
blooming  character.  The  Tea  Rose  blooms 
intermittently  all  the  summer  and  autumn, 
whereas  the  roses  of  western  Europe  usually 
give  a  lot  of  bloom  in  the  month  of  June  and 
do  not  flower  again  until  the  next  year.  Un- 
fortunately the  Tea  Rose  is  not  hardy,  i.  e., 
it  will  not  survive  the  winter  outdoors  in  cold 
climates,  except  in  special  locations,  and  with 
special  treatment.  Tea  Roses  are  the  glory 
of  the  South  and  of  California  and  the  delight 
of  the  Northern  amateur  who  is  willing  to 
fuss  with  them.  They  need  winter  overcoats 
of  straw  or  they  must  be  covered  a  foot  or 
two  deep  with  manure  to  prevent  the  roots 
from  freezing.  The  Hybrid  Tea,  a  blending 
of  the  tender  Tea  and  the  H.P.,  is  hardier 
than  the  Tea  proper  and  gives  some  of  the 


I3O  ROSES 

most  desirable  roses;  most  of  the  modern 
favourites  are  of  this  class. 

It  is  impossible  to  have  the  best  roses  and 
the  best  bush  at  the  same  time.  The  pruning 
and  general  cultivation  are  entirely  different. 
The  two  purposes  cannot  be  entirely  recon- 
ciled. If  you  want  the  best  double  roses, 
your  rose  bushes  are  sure  to  be  unsightly 
when  they  are  out  of  bloom.  If  you  want  a 
rose  bush  that  will  look  well  through  the  sea- 
son you  cannot  have  the  best  double  flowers. 
If  you  want  the  individual  flowers  you  must 
grow  flowers — not  plants — by  pruning  hard 
each  year  in  the  spring,  cutting  back  almost 
to  the  ground.  In  this  climate  the  standard 
roses  should  be  grown  on  the  Dog  Rose  stock, 
every  plant  dug  up  in  the  autumn,  laid  in  a 
trench,  and  covered  for  the  winter.  The 
standard  is  of  service  only  to  relieve  the  level 
monotony  of  a  formal  rose  garden.  It  does 
not  give  larger  flowers. 

In  the  lists  for  special  purposes,  which 
follow,  the  object  has  been  to  present  selec- 
tions of  the  best  varieties  suited  to  each  case. 
The  lists,  in  other  words,  are  not  exclusive, 
but  suggestive  rather.  The  previously  pub- 
lished statements  of  experienced  growers  have 


ROSES    FOR    SPECIAL    PURPOSES  13! 

been  freely  drawn  from,  and  it  is  very  inter- 
esting to  observe  how  frequently  certain 
varieties  are  named  in  widely  separated  parts 
of  the  country. 

VARIETIES  FOR  A  ROSE  GARDEN  (DR.  HUEY's 
LISTS) 

All  Hybrid  Perpetual  Roses  do  not  do  well 
in  America,  and  some  favourites  in  England 
and  Ireland  are  utterly  worthless  here.  In 
order  to  discover  the  best  for  this  climate, 
Dr.  Robert  Huey,  of  Philadelphia,  Pa.,  has 
been  to  considerable  pains,  and  every  Hybrid 
Perpetual  in  Dickson's  catalogue  has  been 
thoroughly  tested  by  garden  cultivation.  For 
this  valuable  and  complete  trial  the  thanks 
of  all  rosarians  are  due.  The  following  va- 
rieties have  all  given  good  satisfaction: 

White  Roses,  H.P. 

Merveille  de  Lyon 
White  Baroness 
Frau  Karl  Druschki 
Margaret  Dickson 
Mabel  Morrison 
Gloire  Lyonnaise 

The  last  is  an  H.T.  but  is  a  vigorous  grower,  blooms  only 
in  June,  and  should  be  planted  with  this  class. 


132  ROSES 

Pink  Roses,  H.P. 
Baroness  Rothschild 
Caroline  d'Arden 
Heinrich   Schultheis 
Her  Majesty 
Mme.  Gabriel  Luizet 
Marquise  de  Castellane 
Mrs.  R.  G.  S.  Crawford 
Mrs.  John  Laing 
Pa'il  Neyron 
Paul's  Early  Blush 
Suzanne  Marie  Rodocanachi 

Crimson  and  Carmine  Roses,  H.  P. 
Captain  Hayward 
Duke  of  Edinburgh 
Duke  of  Teck 
Duke  of  Fife 
Etienne  Levet 
Fisher  Holmes 
General  Jacqueminot 
Oscar  Cordel 
Prince  Arthur 
Ulrich  Brunner 

The  best  of  the  very  dark  roses  is  Prince 
Camille  de  Rohan.  Sultan  of  Zanzibar, 
Louis  van  Hotte  and  Xavier  Olibo  might  also 
be  tried.  They  are,  however,  weak  growers, 
and  do  not  often  perfect  their  blooms. 

Trellis  Roses 
Reine  Marie  Henriette 
Gardenia 


The  wild  Rosa  blanda  is  unequalled  for  foregrounds  of  shrubbery  belts.  The  bright 
red  bark  gives  a  needed  touch  of  colour  to  the  winter  scene.  It  can  be  mowed  down 
close  to  the  ground  every  two  or  three  years,  when  it  will  make  fresh  growth 


ROSES    FOR   SPECIAL    PURPOSES          133 

Ard's  Rover 

Paul's  Carmine  Pillar 

Rosa  setigera 

Dorothy  Perkins 

Queen  Alexandra 

Crimson  Rambler 

Lord  Penzance  Hybrid  Sweetbriers 

Reine  Marie  Henriette  is  undoubtedly  the 
very  finest  trellis  rose  for  the  climate  of  Phila- 
delphia. It  is  a  vigorous  grower,  fairly 
hardy,  and  is  a  glory  in  June,  while  through- 
out the  entire  summer,  and  autumn  until 
frost,  many  good  blooms  may  be  gathered. 
In  pruning,  the  leading  shoots  should  be  cut 
back  to  a  little  above  the  trellis,  and  the 
laterals  shortened  to  two  eyes. 

Hybrid  Teas 

Some  of  the  Hybrid  Tea  Roses  are  hardy  and 
vigorous  in  growth  and  constitution,  and  in 
freedom  and  size  of  bloom  they  surpass  all 
other  sections.  About  one  hundred  and  fifty 
varieties  have  already  been  introduced,  a  few 
of  which  are  excellent,  some  mediocre,  and 
most  worthless  for  our  climate.  After  a  trial 
of  about  eighty  varieties,  some  fifteen  are 
believed  to  be  well  worthy  of  cultivation  here. 
There  are  some  others  that  give  good  prom- 


134  ROSES 

ise,  but  they  are  not  sufficiently  known  to 
report  upon.  The  following  are  recom- 
mended: 

Killarney 

Caroline  Testout 

Antoine  Rivoire 

Viscountess  Folkestone 

Souv.  de  President  Carnot 

La  France 

Kaiserin  Augusta  Victoria 

Alice  Grahame 

Ellen  Wilmot 

Clara  Watson 

Mme.  Abel  Chatenay 

Liberty 

Gruss  an  Teplitz 

M.  Bunel 

Reine  Marie  Henriette 

Killarney  is  the  most  satisfactory  rose  in 
this  or  any  other  class  for  growing  out  of  doors. 
The  growth  is  strong  and  vigorous,  perfume 
delicious,  petals  of  great  substance,  colour 
most  beautiful,  and  it  is  a  free  and  continuous 
bloomer. 

ROSES    FOR    VACATION    HOMES 

If  the  vacation  home  is  occupied  toward 
the  end  of  the  summer  rather  than  at  the 
beginning,  plant  about  it  those  roses  that 


ROSES    FOR   SPECIAL    PURPOSES  135 

flower  in  the  autumn.  Selection  has  been 
made  for  all-round  qualities  such  as  profusion 
of  bloom,  cutting,  garden  effect,  variety  of 
colour,  and  variety  of  type,  as  well  as  length 
of  season,  which  will  do  well  although  given 
poor  attention. 

Bush  Roses 

Kaiserin  Augusta  Victoria  (H.T.),  white. 
Gruss  an  Teplitz  (H.P.),  crimson. 
General  Jacqueminot  (H.C.),  dark  red. 
Burbank  (B.),  pink,  flowers  till  frost. 
Egan  (W.  H.),  pink,  always  in  flower. 
Mme.  Planner  (H.N.),  white. 
Souvenir  de  la  Malmaison  (H.T.),  rich  flesh. 
Mme.  Caroline  Testout  (H.T.),  silver  pink. 

Climbers 

Debutante  (W.H.),  cherry  red,  flowers  into  time  of  frost. 
Seven  Sisters  (P.),  crimson. 
Reine  Marie  Henriette  (T.),  bright  cherry  red. 
Baltimore  Belle  (P.),  white. 

ROSES    FOR   CITY   GARDENS 

In  districts  crowded  with  residences,  with  a 
minimum  of  light  and  air  and  a  maximum  of 
smoke  and  shadow,  only  the  strongest  roses 
of  each  group  may  be  planted.  A  tolerable 
success  may  often  be  had  even  where  the 


136  ROSES 

smoke   is   that   from   soft   coal.     Of  course 
roses  must  have  some  sunshine. 

Hybrid  Perpetuals,  Dark 
Baron  de  Bonstetten  (H.P.),  very  dark  red. 
Charles  Dickens  (H.P.),  rose  colour,  large. 
Dr.  Andry  (H.P.),  dark  bright  red. 
Dupuy  Jamain  (H.P.)  brilliant  cerise. 
General  Jacqueminot  (H.C.),  dark  bright  red. 
Ulrich  Brunner  (H.P.),  cherry  red. 

Hybrid  Perpetuals,  Lighter  Shades 
John  Hopper  (H.P.),  lilac-rose  with  crimson  centre. 
La  France  (H.P.),  silvery  pink. 
Mme.  Gabriel  Luizet  (H.P.),  pink. 
Magna  Charta  (H.P.),  bright  pink,  suffused  carmine. 
Paul  Neyron  (H.P.),  pink.    The  largest  of  all  roses. 

Bourbons 

Boule  de  Neige  (B.),  white. 
Mme.  S.  Cochet  (B.),  rose,  edged  white. 
Mme.  I.  Pereire  (B.),  rosy  carmine. 
Queen  of  Bedders  (B.),  deep  bright  crimson. 

Teas  and  Noisettes 
Aimee  Vibert  (N.),  white,  clusters. 
Reine  Marie  Henriette  (T.),  cherry  red. 
Gloire  de  Dijon  (T.),  yellow. 
Homer  (T.),  blush  rose  and  salmon,  variable. 

Climbers 

Crimson  Rambler  (M.),  crimson. 
R.  Wichuraiana,  white,  single. 
Also  selections  of  the  Rambler-Wichuraiana  hybrids. 


ROSES    FOR    SPECIAL    PURPOSES  137 

ROSES    FOR    SHRUBBERY 

Flowers  are  here  a  secondary  considera- 
tion. The  bush  must  be  shapely,  free  from 
insects  and  diseases  and  of  easier  culture  than 
garden  roses. 

Climbers 

R.  setigera  and  its  group  of  garden  forms,  red  chiefly. 
Dundee  Rambler  (Ayrshire),  white,  good  on  tree  trunks. 

Bush — Single  Flowered 
Penzance  Briers,  white,  pink  to  yellowish. 
Persian  Yellow. 

The  Scotch,  white,  pink,  yellowish. 
R.  lucida,  pink  or  white. 
R.  nitida,  pink. 
R.  rubiginosa,  pink. 
R.  rugosa,  white  or  pink. 
R.  blanda,  pink. 

Bush — Double  Flowered 
A  few  hybrids  of  R.  rugosa,  white  or  red. 
Some  Scotch  roses,  white  or  pink. 
The  Egan,  pink  (W.H.). 
Austrian  Brier,  yellow. 
Harison  Brier,  yellow. 

ROSES    FOR    EDGING   WALKS 

Select  dwarf  compact  roses,  not  of  free 
growth  or  else  naturally  dwarf  bushes  that 
can  be  cut  back  with  impunity;  such  are  the 
native  species. 


138  ROSES 

R.   multiflora  nana — a  dwarf  form  of  the  tall  species; 

very  free  flowering,  white. 
R.  Chinensis,  var.  minima  (R.  Lawrenciana),  one  foot, 

crimson. 
The  Scotch  in  variety:     dwarf,  arching,  good  in  sandy 

soil,  white  to  pink. 
Madame  Norbert  Levavasseur  (R.H.),  flowers  when  only 

a  few  inches  high,  crimson. 

Mow  'These  Down  Every  Tear  or  'Two 
R.  blanda,  pink,  bright  red  back. 
R.  lucida,  white  and  pink. 
R.  nitida,  pink,  hardy. 
R.  rubiginosa,  pink,  sweet-scented  foliage. 

Train  on  the  Ground  or  on   a  Frame 
Crimson  Rambler  and  allied  hybrids. 
R.  Wichuraiana. 
R.  multiflora. 

ROSES    FOR   THE    WILD    GARDEN 

They  must  be  of  the  easiest  possible  cul- 
tivation, single,  free  growing  and  should  be 
allowed  to  climb  or  trail  at  will  over  other 
shrubs.  All  the  native  species  find  a  most 
appropriate  place  in  the  wild  garden  where 
they  will  flourish  and  attain  a  beauty  of  per- 
fection not  dreamt  of  in  the  fields;  they 
should  be  located  in  a  meadow-like  effect. 
Any  one  who  has  visited  the  Arnold  Arbore- 
tum in  Boston  will  recall  the  richness  of  the 


ROSES    FOR    SPECIAL    PURPOSES  139 

wild  rose  flora  in  the  meadow  and  along  the 
edges  of  the  drives  and  walks.  That  is  the 
model. 

Multifloras    Polyanthas.      All    native    roses,    especially 
R.  lucida,  nitida,  and  blanda. 

ROSES    FOR   CLOTHING    STEEP    BANKS 

These  must  be  free  or  even  rampant 
growers  that  will  cover  the  surface  quickly. 
A  beautiful  effect  can  be  had  in  some  situa- 
tions by  planting  on  the  top  of  a  mound  and 
letting  the  growths  trail  down. 

Downward  Hanging 
R.  Wichuraiana,  single  white. 
Debutante  (Seedling  from  C.  Rambler),  soft  pink,  flowers 

twice. 

Dundee  Rambler  (Ayrshire),  white. 
R.  multiflora,  white,  large  corymbs  of  single  flowers. 
Crimson  Rambler,  crimson. 
Wichuraiana  hybrids. 
Philadelphia  (R.H.),  flowers  before  Crimson  Rambler, 

almost  same  colour. 
Evergreen  Gem  (W.H.),  white,  single. 
Pink  Roamer  (W.H.). 

South  Orange  Perfection  (W.H.),  rosy  blush. 
Sweetheart  (W.H.),  delicate  blush. 

Upright  Bushes 
R.  lucida,  pink  or  white. 
R.  blanda,  pink. 
R.  setigera  (semi-upright),  and  its  varieties. 


140  ROSES 

ROSES  FOR  CEMETERIES 

Light-coloured  roses  that  can  stand  neglect. 
But  don't  neglect  them! 

For  Flower  Only 

Maman  Cochet  (T.),  pink;  also  a  white  form. 
Hermosa  (Bengal),  pink. 
Burbank  (B.),  pink,  blooms  till  frost. 
Mme.  Planner  (H.N.),  white. 

For  both  Foliage  and  Flowers 

R.  rugosa,  white  form,  also  effective  in  fruit. 
Mme.  Georges  Bruant  (Hybrid  of  R.  rugosa),  white. 
Harison  Yellow  (Brier),  semi-double,  easier  to  grow  than 

the  Persian. 
Egan  (W.H.),  pink,  makes  a  shapely  bush,  free  from 

disease. 

ROSES    FOR    VERANDAS    OR    PILLARS 

If  the  arbours  and  arches  are  exposed  to 
severe  winter  winds  bend  down  the  wood  and 
bury  it  in  a  trench,  leaving  the  roots  undis- 
turbed. Great  things  are  now  possible 
through  the  hybrids  of  the  Crimson  Rambler. 

Crimson  Rambler  Type 

Crimson  Rambler  (M.),  crimson. 
Dorothy  Perkins  (R.H.),  bright  pink. 
Philadelphia    (R.H.),   like   the   Crimson    Rambler,   but 
earlier. 


For  shrubbery  single  roses  are  most  fitting,  and  the  bush  must  be  sightly  all 
the  season  and  of  the  easiest  culture.  The  Altai  rose  (Rosa  spinosisima,  var. 
Altaica),  a  variety  of  the  Scotch  rose,  has  larger  flowers  and  more  vigorous 
habit  than  the  type.  It  has  white  flowers  succeeded  by  globular  black  fruit 


ROSES    FOR    SPECIAL    PURPOSES          14! 

Psyche  (M.),  pink,  large  flowers  in  clusters. 
Dawson  (W.H.),  a  pink  Rambler. 
Lady  Gay  (R.H.),  bright,  clear  red,  very  striking. 
Debutante  (W.H.),  soft  pink,  small  flowers  until  frost. 
Minnehaha  (W.H.),  dark  rose,  very  double. 

Other  Types 

Baltimore  Belle  (P.),  white. 

The  Ayrshire  Roses  (including  Dundee  Rambler),  pink 

to  red  and  white. 

Carmine  Pillar  (Single  H.P.),  very  showy. 
Rosa  setigera,  pink. 
Queen  of  the  Prairies  (P.),  crimson. 

FOR    SANDY    SOILS    OR    SEASIDE 

The  favourite  H.P.  roses,  if  budded  on  the 
Dog  Rose  or  Brier,  can  often  be  grown  very 
successfully  in  such  situations,  but  the  one 
rose  par  excellence  is  R.  rugosa. 

Trailers 

R.  Wichuraiana,  semi-evergreen,  single,  white. 
Gardenia  (W.H.),  a  semi-evergreen,  double  white. 
Evergreen  Gem  (W.H.),  a  semi-evergreen,  creamy  white, 
single,  large  flower. 

Upright 

Egan  (W.H.),  pink. 

Rosa  rugosa  and  its  hybrids,  red  to  white. 

The  Scotch,  white,  pink  and  yellowish. 


142  ROSES 

Penzance  Sweetbriers — including  Brenda,  Rose  Brad- 
wardine,  Amy  Robsart,  Meg  Merrilies,  etc. — white, 
pink  and  orange. 


ROSES    FOR    CUT    FLOWERS    IN    WINTER 

The  following  will  bloom  from  autumn 
frost  until  May  if  properly  managed.  It  is 
impossible  to  tell  in  advance  of  actual  trial 
whether  a  rose  will  force  easily  and  well  and 
be  acceptable  to  the  public.  The  following 
are  commercially  successful  in  the  East  and 
are  suitable  for  amateurs  to  grow.  The  list 
is  based  on  a  selection  by  the  late  E.  G. 
Asmus. 

The  Unquestioned  Leaders 

The  Bride  (T.),  white. 

Bridesmaid  (T.),  pink. 

Perle  des  Jardins  (T.),  yellow. 

Golden  Gate  (T.),  blush. 

American  Beauty  (H.P.  or  H.T.),  red. 

Liberty  (H.T.),  glowing  crimson. 

Ulrich  Brunner  (H.P.),  cherry  red. 

Other  Favourites — Teas  and  Hybrid  Teas 

Mrs.  Pierpont  Morgan,  cherry  red. 

Madame  Hoste,  yellow, 

Mme.  de  Watteville,  salmon-white. 

Ma  Capucine,  apricot. 

Sunset,  deep  apricot. 


ROSES    FOR   SPECIAL    PURPOSES          143 

Kaiserin  Augusta  Victoria,  white. 
Meteor,  very  dark  red. 
Killarney,  bright  pink. 

Hybrid  Perpetuals 

Baroness  Rothschild,  clear  pink. 

General  Jacqueminot  (H.C.),  red. 

Magna  Charta,  bright  pink. 

Gabriel  Luizet,  pink. 

Paul  Neyron,  rose. 

Anna  de  Diesbach,  clear  rose. 

ROSES   FOR   POTS   AT   CHRISTMAS   AND    EASTER 

Free-growing,  cluster-flowered  roses  that 
are  easily  forced  for  either  holiday.  White 
and  light  colours  are  preferred  for  Easter, 
red  for  Christmas.  Plants  two  to  four  feet 
high  are  generally  preferred. 

Crimson  Rambler,  the  greatest  favourite,  grown  naturally 

or  trained  into  fantastic  forms. 
Madame  Norbert  Levavasseur — the  Baby  Rambler — is 

a  dwarf  hybrid  from  the  above,  crimson,  flowers 

from  three  inches  up. 
Little  Gem  (Moss),  pink. 
Blanche  Moreau  (Moss),  white. 
Dorothy  Perkins  (R.H.),  bright  pink  equivalent  of  the 

older  Crimson  Rambler. 

Lamarque  (N.),  white,  an  old  favourite  now  rarely  seen. 
Varieties  of  the  Prairie  group  (e.  g.,  Russell's  Cottage) 

do  well;   all  of  rich  crimson  red  shades,  worth  a  trial 

by  the  amateur. 


144  ROSES 

ROSES  FOR  GREENHOUSE  DECORATION 

Roses  for  this  purpose  should  make  a  free 
growth  and  cover  a  good  space  in  a  season; 
therefore  climbing  roses  are  best.  The 
larger-flowered  kinds  may  be  used  for  cut 
flowers  also.  Train  the  vines  along  the 
rafters,  on  a  wire  or  upon  a  trellis  against  the 
wall. 

The  Cherokee — a  very  tender  Southern  rose  (R.  bevigata), 

flowers  single,  white  and  large. 
Marechal  Niel  (N.),  yellow. 
Niphetos  (T.),  white. 
Reine  Marie  Henriette  (T.),  cherry  red. 
Gloire  de  Dijon  (T.),  creamy  yellow. 
Climbing  La  France  and  other  climbing  forms  of  the 

popular  varieties. 
Banksia — useful   if  grown   only   for   its   foliage,   small 

flowers,  pale  yellow  or  white,  having  the  odour  of 

violets. 

ROSES    FOR    BOUTONNIERES 

A  gentleman  who  wears  a  rose  bud  in  his 
coat  lapel  every  day  wishes  a  moderate-sized, 
compact,  half-open  bud  of  lasting  quality. 
The  following  are  adapted  to  this  purpose 
(the  Persian  Yellow  least  of  all),  and  are  also 
desirable  for  garden  decoration  and  cut 
flowers. 


THE   ONLY  TYPE   OF  ROSE   FIT  FOR  A  LAWN 

The  common  garden  roses  are  worthless  for  landscape  effects.  Rosa 
rugosa  is  the  best  for  this  purpose,  because  its  bush  is  always  sightly  and 
practically  insect-  and  blight-proof.  Elanc  de  Coubert,  a  semi-double  white 
hybrid  variety  four  to  six  inches  across,  blooms  all  summer. 


ROSES    FOR    SPECIAL    PURPOSES  145 

Hardy 

Common  Moss,  pink. 
White  Bath  (Moss),  white. 
Persian  Yellow  (Brier),  yellow. 
Blanche  Moreau  (Moss),  pink. 
A.  K.  Williams  (H.P.),  dark  red. 
General  Jacqueminot  (H.C.),  dark  red. 
Prince  C.  de  Rohan  (H.P.),  dark  red. 

Tender 

Catherine  Mermet  (T.),  pink. 

Homer  (T.),  pink. 

Ma  Capucine  (T.),  pink. 

The  Bride  (T.),  white. 

Meteor  (T.),  dark  red. 

Perle  des  Jardins  (T.),  light  yellow. 

W.  A.  Richardson  (N.),  terra-cotta. 

ROSES    FOR  THEIR   FRUITS 

For  table  decoration  in  winter: 

Euphrosyne,  small  hips  in  large  clusters. 
Thalia,  small  hips  in  large  clusters. 
R.  rugosa,  large  hips. 

Brenda,  one  of  the    Penzance  Sweetbriers,  is  strikingly 
effective. 

ROSES    FOR    GREAT    MASSES    OF    FLOWERS 

It  is  impossible  to  have  the  best  flowers  and 
the  best  bush  at  the  same  time.  If  roses  are 
grown  for  a  big  floral  display,  the  bushes  or 


146  ROSES 

vines  are  almost  sure  to  be  unsightly  when 
out  of  bloom.  Therefore,  the  rosarium  or 
formal  rose  garden,  which  is  designed  for  a 
big  display  of  double  flowers,  should  be  in  an 
enclosed,  out-of-the-way  place  where  it  will 
not  interfere  with  landscape  effects.  The 
following  are  excellent  for  entrances  to  rose 
gardens  or  hedges  surrounding  them: 

Rosa  Mundi  (F.),  striped  red  and  white. 
The  Scotch,  white  to  pink. 
Mme.  Hardy  (D.),  white. 
Persian  Yellow  (Brier),  yellow. 
Crimson  Rambler  (M.),  crimson. 

R.  rugosa,  single,  pink  or  white,  best  for  hedges,  always 
sightly. 

Also  the  stronger  growing  popular  varieties 
of  the  H.P.  group  as  enumerated  in  the  lists 
of  resistant  and  town  roses. 

ROSES  FOR  "STANDARDS"  IN  FORMAL  GARDENS 

The  object  of  "standards"  is  to  break  the 
low  level  of  the  rose  beds.  They  fit  formal 
gardens  only,  and  are  effective  for  an  "ave- 
nue" effect  on  the  sides  of  the  principal  walks. 
As  ordinarily  grown,  standard  roses  are  not 
successful  in  our  gardens,  as  they  suffer  from 
bark  scald  in  summer  and  they  die  in  winter. 


ROSES    FOR    SPECIAL    PURPOSES  147 

This  list  includes  some  roses  that  are  noto- 
riously not  hardy  in  the  East,  but  if  the  stems 
are  of  R.  canina  and  are  wrapped  in  moss  in 
summer  they  will  do  grandly.  Then  for  the 
winter  dig  up  the  entire  plants  and  bury  in 
trenches  eighteen  inches  deep. 

Reds  and  Pinks 

Souvenir  de  la  Malmaison  (H.T.),  rich  flesh. 
General  Jacqueminot  (H.C.),  deep  red. 
Paul  Neyron  (H.P.),  pink. 

Prince  Camille  de  Rohan  (H.P.),  very  dark  crimson. 
Reynolds  Hole  (H.P.),  extremely  dark  crimson. 
La  France  (H.T.),  silvery  pink. 

Tel  lows  and   Whites 

Gloire  de  Dijon  (T.),  pale  yellow. 
Kaiserin  Augusta  Victoria  (H.T.),  white. 
Madame  Falcot  (T.),  saffron  yellow. 
Belle  Lyonnaise  (T.),  deep  canary  yellow. 
William  Allen  Richardson  (N.),  apricot. 
Marechal  Niel  (N.),  yellow. 

FOR   HEAVY   CLAY    SOILS 

All  roses  like  a  clayey  soil,  but  the  groups 
here  named  are  especially  suited  for  very  heavy 
soil.  Such  soil  should  be  lightened  by  plenty- 
ful  admixture  of  well-rotted  manure.  If  the 
soil  is  very  stiff,  the  plants  would  best  be  on 
Manetti  stock,  when  not  on  own  roots.  This 


148  ROSES 

selection  gives  a  good  range  of  all  colours 
except  yellow. 

The  Bousalt  group. 
Damask  group. 
Hybrid  Bourbon  group. 

ROSES    FOR   FOREGROUND 

Dwarf-growing  roses  for  fronting  large  beds 
or  for  use  in  the  foreground  of  shrubbery 
borders  where  a  double-purpose  garden  is 
maintained  are  very  useful. 

The  Scotch  (suckers  very  freely  and  must  have  plenty  of 

room). 

Gustave  Piganeau  (H.P.),  eighteen  inches  to  two  feet. 
Baroness  Rothschild  (H.P.),  eighteen  inches  to  two  feet. 
Fairy  Rose,  R.  Chinensis,  var.  minima,  known  to  the 

trade  as  R.  Lawrenciana,  very  dwarf,  crimson. 
Mme.  Norbert  Levavasseur  (R.H.),  very  dwarf,  crimson. 

ROSES  IN  SPECIAL  RELATION  TO  MILDEW 

Resistent   Varieties 

From  notes  and  records  taken  at  Elizabeth 
Park,  at  Hartford,  Conn.: 

Glory  of  Cheshunt  (H.P.),  crimson. 
Comtesse  Cecile  de  Chabrillant  (H.P.),  pink. 
Victor  Verdier  (H.P.),  bright  rose. 
Eclair  (H.P.). 
Dr.  Andry  (H.P.). 


ROSES    FOR   SPECIAL    PURPOSES          149 

Madame  Alfred  Carriere  (H.P.). 
Gloire  de  Dijon  (T.). 
Reine  Marie  Henriette  (T.). 
Madame  Plantier  (H.C.). 
Philadelphia  (R.). 
White  Bath  (Moss). 

Particularly  Subject  to  Mildew 

The  Hybrid  Perpetuals  as  a  class  may  be 
said  to  be  liable  to  mildew: 

Captain  Christy  (H.T.). 
Mildred  Grant  (H.T.). 
Helen  Keller  (H.P.). 
Caroline  de  Sansal  (H.P.). 
Madame  Gabriel  Luizet  (H.P.). 
Jules  Margottin,  slightly  (H.P.). 
£tienne  Lever,  slightly  (H.P.). 
Eugene  Furst  (H.P.). 
Earl  Dufferin  (H.P.). 
Lady  H.  Stewart  (H.P.). 
Marchioness  of  Lome  (H.P.). 
Blanche  Moreau,  badly  (Moss). 
Crimson  Rambler  (M.). 

THE  MOST  SWEETLY  SCENTED  ROSES 

As  a  rule,  roses  must  be  either  sweetly 
scented  or  large  flowered  to  be  really  popular. 
A  few  famous  roses  have  no  appreciable 
odour,  e.  g.,  Baroness  Rothschild,  Victor 
Verdier,  and  Captain  Christy. 


I5O  ROSES 

Medium-sized  Flowers 

Damask  (R.  Damascena  group),  scent  leaves  petals  on 

drying;  pink  and  white. 
French  (R.  Gallica  group),  scent  retained  on  drying;  all 

colours. 

Moss  group,  white  to  pink. 
Musk  group,  generally  white,  a  few  pink  or  red;  most 

fragrant  in  a  still  moist  atmosphere. 
Noisettes,  hybrids  of  the  true  musk;  all  colours. 

Large  Flowered 

The  Tea  group;  all  are  more  or  less  scented  with  the 
characteristic  tea  odour.  They  require  winter  pro- 
tection. Gloire  de  Dijon,  yellowish,  and  Marechal 
Niel  (really  a  Noisette),  yellow,  are  especially  fragrant. 

Hybrid  Perpetuals:  Paul  Verdier,  light  red;  American 
Beauty,  red;  Baron  de  Bonstetten,  dark  red;  Com- 
tesse  de  Chabrillant,  pink;  General  Jacqueminot, 
dark  red;  Senateur  Vaisse,  brilliant  red. 

ROSES    FOR   CHICAGO 

Compiled  from  Mr.  W.  C.  Egan's  reports. 
The  climate  of  the  lake  shore  is  very  trying, 
and  the  experience  of  years  has  given  the  fol- 
lowing as  the  most  reliable: 

Bedding  or  Bush  Roses 

Prince  Camille  de  Rohan  (H.P.),  deep  crimson. 
Magna  Charta  (H.P.),  bright  pink. 
Mrs.  R.  G.  Sharman  Crawford  (H.P.),  red. 
Capt.  Christy  (H.T.),  white. 


ROSES    FOR    SPECIAL    PURPOSES  15! 

General  Jacqueminot  (H.C.),  red 

Mrs.  Paul  (H.P.),  violet-red. 

Louis  Van  Houtte  (H.P.).  red  shaded  amaranth. 

Crested  Moss,  pink. 

Climbers 

Seven  Sisters  (P.),  crimson. 
Crimson  Rambler  (M.),  bright  crimson. 
Carmine  Pillar  (single  H.P.),  bright  crimson. 
Dawson  (R.H.),  light  pink. 

ROSES  FOR  THE  OHIO  AND  MISSOURI  VALLEYS 

By  a  rosarian  in  Kentucky.  This  is  a 
betwixt  and  between  territory,  too  severe  for 
the  real  Southern  roses,  and  yet  decidedly 
warmer  than  the  regular  Eastern  section.  In 
the  course  of  a  tour  these  roses  were  noted  as 
thriving  best  over  the  widest  areas.  This  list 
shows  how  generally  adapted  to  widely  differ- 
ent areas  are  some  of  the  best-known  roses 
of  the  East. 

Hybrid  Perpetuals 

General  Jacqueminot  (H.C.),  dark  red. 
Charles  Lefebvre,  bright  crimson. 
Camille  de  Rohan  deep  crimson. 

Cluster  Roses 

Pacquerette  (Polyantha  Perpetual),  pure  white,  small. 
Hermosa  (Bourbon),  deep  pink. 
Agrippina  (Bengal),  velvety  crimson. 


152  ROSES 

'Tea  and  Hybrid  'Tea 
La  France  (H.T.),  silvery  rose. 
Malmaison  (H.T.),  rich  flesh. 
Clothilde  Soupert  (T.),  rosy  carmine. 
Duchesse  de  Brabant  (T.),  rosy  pink. 
Homer  (T.),  blush  rose,  variable. 
Francisca  Kruger  (T.),  coppery  yellow. 
Marie  Van  Houtte  (H.T.),  white  tinted  yellow. 
Sombreuil  (T.),  white,  tinged,  rose. 

ROSES    FOR    SOUTHERN    CALIFORNIA 

From  Mr.  Ernest  Braunton's  list.  California 
is  the  land  where  Tea  Roses  can  be  grown  out- 
doors. Its  climate  is  more  like  that  of 
southern  Europe  than  the  eastern  United 
States,  and  almost  every  kind  of  rose  can  be 
grown  on  the  Pacific  Coast. 

Bush 

Marie  Van  Houtte  (H.P.). 
Maman  Cochet  (T.). 

Climbers 
Lamarque  (N.). 
Marechal  Niel  (T.). 
Reine  Marie  Henriette  (T.). 
Beauty  of  Glazenwood  (C.). 

ROSES    FOR   OREGON 

Roses  flourish  in  this  region,  and  a  list  of 
selections  can  be  regarded  only  as  a  guide  to 
types — an  immense  number  could  be  cited. 


ROSES    FOR    SPECIAL    PURPOSES  153 

These  are  selected  from  reports  of  Mr.  W.  S. 
Sibson,  Portland. 

Hybrid  'Teas 
La  France,  pink. 
Madame  C.  Testout,  silvery  pink. 
Viscountess  Folkestone,  creamy  white,  salmon  centre. 

Hybrid  Perpetuals 
Abel  Carriere,  very  dark  colour. 
Baron  de  Bonstetten,  very  dark. 
Capt.  Christy,  white. 
General  Jacqueminot  (H.C.),  crimson. 
Gloire  Lyonnaise,  white. 
Marie  Baumann,  bright  crimson. 
Ulrich  Brunner,  bright  rose  colour. 
Victor  Verdier,  bright  rose  colour. 
Merville  de  Lyon,  very  light,  white  shaded  pink. 
Clio,  flesh  pink. 

ROSES    FOR   MISSOURI 

From  a  local  correspondent.  The  climate 
is  trying  and  hardiness  must  be  sought.  Still 
there  are  surprises  in  store,  as  some  of  the 
Teas  do  well,  with  protection  from  frost  in 
winter,  of  course. 

Hermosa  (Bengal),  pink. 

Malmaison  (H.T.),  rich  flesh. 

Kaiserin  Augusta  Victoria  (H.T.),  white. 

Madame  Caroline  Testout  (H.T.),  silver  pink. 

Clothilde  Soupert  (T.),  cherry  red. 

Homer  (T.),  pink. 


154  ROSES 

Mme.  G.  Bruant  (Rugosa  hybrid),  white. 
Isabella  Sprunt  (T.)>  yellow. 
Papa  Gontier  (T.),  rosy  crimson. 
Marie  Baumann  (H.P.),  bright  carmine. 
Coquette  des  Alpes  (N.),  white  shaded  rose. 

TEA     ROSES     FOR    OUTDOOR    CULTIVATION     IN 
NEW   JERSEY 

List  furnished  by  Mr.  James  M.  Chapman, 
Monmouth  County,  who  is  able  to  grow 
Hybrid  Teas  by  covering  the  plants  with  litter 
a  foot  deep  in  winter. 

Pink  and  Salmon 
Augustine  Guinoisseau,  flesh  pink. 
President  Carnot,  pale  pink. 
La  France,  silvery  pink. 
Pink  Maman  Cochet. 
Bon  Silene,  rosy  salmon. 
Mme.  Abel  Chatenay,  salmon. 

Red 

Souvenir  de  Wootton,  rosy  red. 
Liberty,  glowing  deep  red. 
Baldwin,  deep  red. 
American  Beauty,  red. 

White 

Kaiserin  Augusta  Victoria. 
White  Maman  Cochet. 

Buff 

Mme.  Germaine  Trochon. 
Safrano. 


PRAIRIE    ROSES  ARE   UNEQUALLED    FOR    COVERING 
TREE    TRUNKS 

The  Baltimore  Belle,  a  cluster  rose  of  this  group,  flowers  eight  months  of 
the  year  in  California,  and  under  the  best  conditions  grows  thirty  or  forty  feet 
high  at  Del  Monte.  It  is  equally  valuable  in  the  East  as  a  climbing  rose  on 
tree  trunks,  trellises,  posts,  etc.  Tie  or  tack  the  main  branches  when  planting 


ROSES    FOR    SPECIAL    PURPOSES  155 

ROSES    FOR   ONTARIO 

Captain  C.  R.  Hext,  Brantford,  grows  all 
these  H.P.'s  with  slight  protection,  in  order 
to  insure  complete  safety,  although  they  are 
hardy  and  grow  in  the  southern  part  of  the 
province  without  protection.  After  repeated 
trials  of  giving  protection  with  leaves,  long 
straw,  manure,  etc.,  success  with  Teas  is  still 
lacking. 

Alfred  Colomb 

Anna  de  Diesbach 

Baroness  Rothschild 

General  Jacqueminot 

Jules  Margottin 

Louis  van  Houtte 

Mabel  Morrison 

Magna   Charta 

Marie  Baumann 

Merveille  de  Lyon 

Paul  Neyron 

Prince  Camille  de  Rohan 

The  Prairie  Roses,  for  climbers 

ONE    HUNDRED    GOOD    ROSES    FOR    THE    LATI- 
TUDE   OF    NEW   YORK 

By  Commander  Aaron  Ward.  The  assort- 
ment of  one  hundred  roses  named  in  the 
following  list  includes  the  leading  varieties 
found  satisfactory  in  the  North,  when  given 


156  ROSES 

the  general  treatment  recommended  else- 
where in  this  book.  The  color  division  is 
rather  arbitrary,  and  in  the  case  of  Teas  and 
Hybrid  Teas  it  indicates  merely  the  principal 
or  primary  colour  of  the  beautiful  combina- 
tions found  in  these  roses.  Single  roses, 
Luteas,  Damasks,  Wichuraianas  and  others 
of  interest  only  to  the  general  collector  are 
intentionally  omitted. 

BUSH  ROSES 

WHITE. — Bourbon:  K.  P.  Victoria,  Souv. 
de  la  Malmaison.  Bengal:  Ducher.  Poly- 
antbas:  Etoile  de  Mai,  Marie  Pavie.  Rugosa: 
Blanc  Double  de  Coubert,  Mme.  G.  Bruant. 
Tea:  White  Mme.  Cochet.  Hybrid  Teas: 
Augustine  Guinoisseau,  E.  Wilmot,  Inno- 
cence, Kaiserin,  Mme.  J.  Combet,  Souv. 
Pres.  Carnot.  Hybrid  Perpetuals:  Frau  K. 
Druschki,  Margaret  Dickson,  Merveille  de 
Lyon. 

PINK  AND  WHITE. — Teas:  Anna  Ollivier, 
Comtesse  de  Turenne.  Hybrid  Teas:  An- 
toine  Rivoire,  Clara  Watson,  Grace  Darling, 
Lady  Clanmorris,  Prince  de  Bulgarie,  Vis. 
Folkestone.  Polyantba:  Clothilde  Soupert. 


ROSES    FOR    SPECIAL    PURPOSES          157 

PINK. — Teas:  Boadicea,  G.  Nabonnand, 
Maman  Cochet.  Hybrid  Teas:  Belle  Sie- 
brecht,  Camoens,  Ferd.  Jamin,  Killarney, 
Mme.  C.  Testout,  Mme.  J.  Grolez,  Papa 
Lambert.  Hybrid  Perpeiuals:  Anna  de  Dies- 
bach,  Baron  de  Rothschild,  Mme.  Gabriel 
Luizet,  Mrs.  John  Laing,  Mrs.  R.  S.  Craw- 
ford, Paul  Neyron.  Bourbon:  Mrs.  Paul. 
Rugosa:  C.  F.  Meyer. 

SALMON. — Tea:  Souv.  de  C.  Guillot  (ten- 
der). Hybrid  Tea:  Mme.  A.  Chatenay. 
Bengal:  Aurore,  Queen  Mab  (tender). 

BRIGHT  RED. — Teas:  Jules  Finger,  Souv. 
J.  B.  Guillot  (thin).  Hybrid  Teas:  Gruss  an 
Teplitz.  Hybrid  Perpetuals:  Alfred  Colomb, 
Comtesse  d'Oxford,  Eclair,  Fisher  Holmes, 
La  France  of  '89,  Mme.  Victor  Verdier, 
Marie  Baumann,  Ulrich  Brunner.  Poly- 
anthas:  Leonie  Lamesch,  Mme.  N.  Le- 
vavasseur. 

DARK  RED. — Hybrid  Tea:  Etoile  de  France. 
Hybrid  Perpetuals:  G.  Lefebvre,  E.  Furst, 
Jean  Liabaud,  Louis  Van  Houtte,  Prince 
C.  de  Rohan,  Souv.  de  W.  Wood,  Victor 
Hugo. 

LIGHT  YELLOW. — Tea:  Marie  Van  Houtte. 
Hybrid  Teas:  Amateur  Teyssier,  F.  Deegen, 


158  ROSES 

Mile.  H.  Cambier,  Mme.  Fernet  Ducher. 
Bengal:  Frau  S.  Roeloffs.  Polyantha:  Perle 
d'Or. 

DARK  YELLOW. — Teas:  Doctor  Grill,  Fran- 
cisca  Kruger.  Hybrid  Teas:  Le  Progres, 
Mme.  H.  Leuillot,  Mme.  Ravary.  Bengal: 
Mme.  E.  Resal.  Polyantha:  Eugenie  La- 
mesch. 

CLIMBERS 

WHITE. — Prairie:  Baltimore  Belle.  Poly- 
antha: Thalia. 

BRIGHT  RED. — Tea:  Reine  Marie  Hen- 
riette.  Rambler:  Crimson  Rambler.  Noi- 
sette: Reine  Olga.  Hybrid  Perpetual:  Ard's 
Rover. 

YELLOW. — Polyantha:  Aglaia.  Tea:  Duch- 
esse  d'Auerstadt.  Noisettes:  Bouquet  d'Or, 
Reve  d'Or. 

VIOLET- ROSE. — Multi-flora:  Helene. 

CARMINE  AND  YELLOW. — Tea:  Souvenir  de 
Mme.  L.  Viennot. 

PINK.  —  Bourbon:  Climbing  Malmaison. 
Polyantha:  Euphrosyne.  Prairie:  Prairie 
Queen. 

SALMON  SHADES. —  Tea:  Mme.  Berard. 
Noisette:  W.  A.  Richardson. 


ROSES    FOR    SPECIAL    PURPOSES  159 

ROSES     THAT     CAN     BE     EASILY     BOUGHT 

Of  the  thousands  of  roses  that  have  been 
introduced  to  our  gardens,  a  great  majority 
are  not  known  in  the  American  trade  to-day. 
Some  are  not  suited  to  the  climate,  others  are 
not  sufficiently  distinct  from  some  others  to 
merit  a  place,  or  there  may  be  reasons  of  a 
trade  nature  why  certain  roses  are  not  offered 
to  the  amateur  here.  It  is  of  interest  to 
know  just  what  varieties  may  be  ordered 
with  a  reasonable  certainty  of  having  the 
order  filled  without  undue  delay.  The  fol- 
lowing list  is  compiled  from  the  catalogues 
of  wholesale  importers  and  the  auction 
sales  lists.  Rose  specialists  will  be  able  to 
supply  others  not  named  here,  but  these 
are  the  roses  in  best  actual  demand: 

Hybrid  Perpetual 

Abel  Carriere,  dark  crimson  purple. 
Alfred  Colomb,  brilliant  crimson. 
Baroness  de  Rothschild,  light  rose. 
Capt.  Christy,  delicate  flesh  coloured. 
Celine  Forestier,  rich  yellow. 
Comtesse  Julie  de  Schulenberg,  dark  red. 
Duke  of  Edinburgh,  very  bright,  rich  scarlet  crimson. 
Duke  of  Teck,  clear  vivid  scarlet  crimson. 
Elizabeth  Vigneron,  pink. 
Emperor,  dark  crimson,  nearly  black. 
Frau  Karl  Druschki,  snow  white. 


160  ROSES 

General  Jacqueminot,  glowing  scarlet  crimson. 

Gloire  de  Bourg  La  Reine,  dark  red. 

Gloire  de  Margottin,  red. 

Jules  Margottin,  brilliant  glossy  pink. 

Magna  Charta,  bright  pink. 

Marchioness  of  Lome,  rich  red,  shaded  carmine. 

Margaret  Dickson,  pure  white. 

Marie  Baumann,  carmine. 

M.  Boncenne,  velvety  blackish  crimson. 

Mrs.  John  Laing,  soft  rosy  pink. 

Mme.  Chas.  Wood,  brilliant  red. 

Mrs.  R.  G.  Sharman   Crawford,  clear  rose,  pink  and 

pale  flesh. 

Paul  Neyron,  deep  rose. 
Paeonia,  light  red. 

Perle  des  Blanches,  white,  pale  centre. 
Princess  de  Beam,  dark  crimson. 
Suzanne  Marie  de  Rodocanachi,  deep  scarlet. 
Tom  Wood,  cherry  red. 
Ulrich  Brunner,  cherry  red. 
Victor  Verdier,  cherry. 
Victor  Hugo,  brilliant  crimson. 

Te as,  Hybrid  Teas  and  Noisettes 

Amabilis,  pink. 

Belle  Siebrecht,  bright  rosy  pink. 

Dr.  Grill,  coppery  yellow,  shaded  with  light  yellow. 

Duchesse  d'Auerstadt,  bright  golden  yellow. 

Duchess  Hedwig  Aremberg,  pink,  dark  centre. 

Etoile  de  Lyon,  sulphur. 

George  Schwartz,  dark  canary  yellow. 

Gloire  de  Lyon,  carmine,  shaded  with  amber  and  cream 

Grossherzog  Ernest  Ludwig,  bright  red. 

G.  Nabonnand,  light  rose  yellow. 


ROSES    FOR   SPECIAL    PURPOSES          l6l 

Gruss  an  Teplitz,  crimson  scarlet. 

Helen  Gould  (Baldwin),  rosy  crimson. 

Jubilee,  velvety  crimson. 

Kaiserin  Augusta  Victoria,  white. 

L'Innocence,  purest  milk  white. 

Maman  Cochet,  deep  flesh  colour. 

Marie  Van  Houtte,  lemon  yellow,  edged  rose. 

Meteor,  silvery  crimson. 

Mme.  Abel  Chatenay,  rosy  carmine,  shaded  with  salmon. 

Mme.  Emil  Souffrain,  dark  yellow  centre,  pink  outside 

and  light  yellow. 

Mme.  Francisca  Kruger,  coppery  yellow. 
Mme.  Jos.  Combet,  cream  white  shaded  rose. 
Mme.  Jules  Grolez,  silver  rose,  shaded  with  yellow. 
Mme.  Lombard,  rosy  bronze,  shaded  with  carmine. 
Mme.  Pierre  Cochet,  yellowish  white,  centre  deep  yellow. 
Mme.  Wagram,  saintly  rose  and  rosy  flesh,  changing  to 

Chinese  red. 

Papa  Gontier,  bright  rosy  crimson. 
Perle  des  Jardins,  pale  yellow. 
President  Carnot,  bright  rose. 
Princess  de  Sagan,  velvety  crimson. 
Queen's  Scarlet,  rich  velvety  scarlet. 
Souvenir    de    Catherine    Guilot,    coppery    orange    red, 

yellow  base. 

Souvenir  de  la  Malmaison,  rich  flesh  colour. 
Souvenir  de  Wootton,  rich  velvety  red. 
Viscountess  Folkestone,  creamy  pink,  centre  salmon. 
W.  A.  Richardson,  deep  orange  yellow. 
'White  Maman  Cochet,  white. 

Climbing  Roses 
Aglaia,  the  yellow  Rambler. 
Baltimore  Belle,  double  white. 


l62  ROSES 

Clothilde  Soupert,  white. 
Euphrosyne,  pink  Rambler. 
Helene,  light  rose. 
Jules  Margottin. 
Kaiserin  Augusta  Victoria. 
La  France. 
Meteor. 

Prairie  Queen,  pink. 
Pysche,  pink. 
Thalia,  white  Rambler. 

Zepherine  Drouet,  practically  thornless  rose,  beautiful 
pink. 

Sweetbner  Roses 
Amy  Robsart,  deep  rose. 
Edith  Bellenden,  pale  rose. 
Flora  Mclvor,  white  tinged  with  rose. 
Green  Mantle,  pink,  white  centre. 
Lady  Penzance,  coppery,  tinted  yellow. 
Lord  Penzance,  fawn  colour. 
Lucy  Pertram,  deep  crimson,  white  centre. 
Meg  Merrilies,  crimson. 
Rose  Bradwardine,  clear  rose. 

Bengal  or  Monthly  Roses 
Agrippina,  red. 
Fellemberg,  red. 
Hermosa,  pink. 

Moss  Roses 

Blanche  Moreau,  pure  white. 
Captain  Ingram,  rich  crimson. 
Chapeau  de  Napoleon,  red. 
Comtesse  de  Murinais. 
Crested  Moss,  pale  rosy  pink. 
Crimson  Globe,  dark  carmine  red. 


ROSES    FOR    SPECIAL    PURPOSES  163 

Doctor  Berthier,  brilliant  cherry  red. 
Glory  of  Mosses,  carmine  rose. 
Madame  Moreau,  red  vermilion. 
Madame  William  Paul,  clear  rosy. 
Red  Moss,  red. 
Salet,  vivid  rose. 
White  Moss,  white. 
White  Perpetual,  white. 

Polyantba  Roses 
Clothilde    Soupert,    ivory    white,    shaded    with    silvery 

rose. 

Gloire  de  Polyantha,  citron  rose,  pale  carmine. 
Marie  Pavie,  creamy  white,  edged  with  carmine  rose. 
Mosella,  chrome  yellow. 
Mignonette,  clear  pink,  passing  to  white. 
Pacquerette,  small,  pure  white. 
Perle  de  Rouge,  velvety  crimson. 
Red  Pet,  red. 
White  Pet,  white. 

Rugosa  Roses 
Double  Red  Rugosa. 
Double  White  Rugosa. 
Mme.  Georges  Bruant,  white. 
Single  Red  Rugosa. 
Single  White  Rugosa. 

American  Hybrid  Ramblers 
Dorothy  Perkins,  pink. 
Evergreen  Gem,  creamy  white. 
Philadelphia,  like  Crimson  Rambler. 
Pink  Roamer,  pink,  silvery  white  centre. 
South  Orange  Perfection,  rosy  blush. 
Universal  Favorite,  rose  colour. 


164  ROSES 

European  Hybrid  Ramblers 
Adelaide  Moulle,  pink. 
Alberis  Barbier,  canary  yellow. 
Auguste  Barbier,  pink. 
Edouard  Proust,  flesh  colour. 
Electra,  double  yellow. 

Elisa  Robichon,  free  flowering,  rose  yellow  shades. 
Fran£ois  Foucard,  yellowish  white. 
Paul  Transon,  double  rose  coloured. 
Queen  Alexandra,  very  free  flowering,  semi-double,  red 

flowers.     Like  the  Crimson  Rambler. 
Rubin,  dark  red. 


CHAPTER  IX 
ROSES  OF  AMERICAN  ORIGIN 

AMERICA  has  contributed  comparatively 
few  roses  to  the  great  list  of  varieties  popularly 
known  to-day.  Yet  two  important  groups 
are  credited  to  us.  About  the  year  1814  the 
first  of  the  Noisette  class  was  raised — a  class 
that  has  in  it  some  of  the  most  pleasing  of 
all  cluster  roses.  John  Champney  of  Charles- 
ton, South  Carolina,  fertilised  the  White 
Musk  with  pollen  from  the  Blush  China, 
which  was  named  Champney's  Pink  Cluster. 
A  Charleston  florist  raised  a  seedling  from 
this  which  he  sent  to  his  brother  in  France — 
Louis  Noisette — about  1817.  From  this  be- 
ginning the  charming  class  of  Noisettes 
(which  properly,  however,  should  have  been 
called  Champney  Roses)  was  raised  and 
distributed.  The  modern  members  of  this 
group  having  a  large  admixture  of  Tea  in 
them  are  not  quite  hardy.  Some  of  the 
greatest  of  the  yellow  roses  are  of  this  section, 

165 


166  ROSES 

including  Marechal  Niel  and  Chromatella. 
From  that  one  notable  beginning  little 
was  done  until  quite  recently,  when  the 
immense  possibilities  of  the  multiflora  group 
(as  exemplified  in  Crimson  Rambler)  and 
Rosa  Wichuraiana  gave  a  new  impetus  to 
rose  production  in  America.  We  are  to-day 
only  beginning  to  realise  the  development 
in  this  group,  which  bids  fair  to  be  one 
characteristically  American.  These  varieties 
answer  the  requirements  of  the  average 
American  garden  better  than  many  other 
plants,  and  though  not  roses  of  the  older 
type,  which  will  always  be  grown  for  cut 
flowers,  still  they  are  roses  and  fill  a  place  in 
the  garden  and  about  the  porch  that  no  other 
plants  have  done  so  far. 

WHAT    THE    RAMBLER    AND    MEMORIAL    ROSES 
HAVE    GIVEN    US    IN   TEN   YEARS 

In  1893  the  Wichuraiana  Rose  was  first  in- 
troduced into  this  country  from  Japan,  by  Mr. 
Jackson  Dawson,  and  since  then  has  steadily 
grown  in  favour  for  the  several  purposes 
to  which  it  is  so  well  adapted.  It  is  a  most 
interesting  species,  being  hardy,  pure  white 


ROSES    OF    AMERICAN    ORIGIN  167 

single  flowers,  and  resplendent  green  foliage. 
It  has  proved  a  valuable  variety  for  hybridis- 
ing purposes,  and  from  this  plant  as  a  seed- 
bearing  parent  several  hybridists  procured 
new  varieties  of  the  highest  merit. 

The  Crimson  Rambler,  from  Japan,  was 
also  introduced  in  1893,  and  it  is  safe  to  say 
that  more  plants  of  this  variety  have  been 
sold  than  of  any  other  rose  for  outdoor 
cultivation.  As  a  parent  it  has  produced 
some  varieties  of  the  highest  merit. 

These  roses  may  be  grown  as  ground 
roses  if  so  desired,  or  they  may  be  trained  as 
climbers  for  porches,  trellises,  archways  or 
specimens  on  rustic  posts.  They  grow  vigor- 
ously in  ordinary  soils  well  enriched  with 
manure,  and  are  seemingly  very  free  from 
attacks  of  insects. 

One  of  the  most  progressive  of  modern 
hybridists  is  Mr.  Walsh,  of  Woods  Hole, 
Mass.,  who  has  given  these: 

Debutante  (Wichuraiana  and  Baroness 
Rothschild),  with  double  flowers  two  and  one- 
quarter  inches  in  diameter,  pink,  fragrant; 
September  until  frost;  a  desirable  acquisition 
to  the  climbing  roses.  It  is  perfectly  hardy. 

Sweetheart  (Wichuraiana  and  Bridesmaid) 


168  ROSES 

has  flowers  double,  borne  in  clusters,  hanging 
gracefully.  The  flowering  season  continues 
for  six  weeks,  and  some  flowers  may  be  seen 
until  frost.  This  may  be  classed  as  a  semi- 
evergreen  variety,  since  the  foliage  remains 
on  the  stems  until  February  and  the  small 
shoots  retain  their  leaves  the  whole  year. 

Minnehaba  (Wichuraiana  and  Paul  Ney- 
ron)  has  dark  rose  flowers,  borne  on  large 
trusses  on  long,  stout  stems.  The  foliage  is 
light  glossy  green,  hardy. 

Evangeline,  has  flowers  two  inches  across, 
single,  pure  white. 

Lady  Gay  (Wichuraiana  and  Bardou  Job) 
experts  have  pronounced  to  be  the  best  of 
Mr.  Walsh's  hybrids.  The  colour  is  a 
combination  of  cherry  pink,  touched  with 
vermilion,  fading  to  pure  white.  It  produces 
canes  twelve  to  fifteen  feet  in  length  in  one 
season,  and  so  is  admirably  suited  for 
trellises,  porches,  pergolas,  etc.  This  is  a 
fine  forcing  rose  for  Easter  decoration. 

Hiawatha  (Wichuraiana  hybrid),  is  very 
floriferous;  a  bright  crimson  single  flower,  the 
base  of  petals  white. 

Wedding  Bells,  a  seedling  from  Crimson 
Rambler,  is  most  floriferous.  Some  plants 


ROSES    OF    AMERICAN    ORIGIN  169 

in  eight-inch  pots  at  this  writing  have  by 
actual  count  300  flower  buds  on  a  plant. 
This  is  very  distinct  in  foliage,  a  very  light 
green  colour  with  soft  woolly  texture,  mid- 
ribs of  leaves  bright  red.  The  flower  is  pink 
in  the  upper  half  of  petal,  white  below;  semi- 
double. 

W.  A.  Manda,  South  Orange,  New  Jersey, 
introduced  in  1897  and  1899  a  number 
of  very  distinct  climbing  roses,  with  R. 
Wichuraiana  as  one  parent.  They  are  prac- 
tically evergreen. 

Evergreen  Gem,  colour  buff,  changing  to 
almost  white,  sweetbrier  perfume. 

Jersey  Beauty,  pale  yellow,  large  single 
flowers,  with  bright  yellow  stamen,  very 
striking. 

Manda  s  Triumph,  double  white,  flowering 
in  clusters,  sweet  scented. 

Pink  Roamer,  bright  pink. 

South  Orange  Perfection,  white,  tipped  with 
pink. 

Universal  Favourite,  double  pink  flowers, 
very  fragrant. 

Mr.  Jackson  Dawson,  Arnold  Arboretum, 
Boston,  Mass.,  has  also  produced  some 
splendid  varieties,  raised  from  the  Wichurai- 


170  ROSES 

ana,  among  them  the  Dawson,  vigorous 
grower,  branches  covered  with  double  pink 
flowers. 

The  Farquhar,  sent  out  in  1903  by  R.  and 
J.  Farquhar,  is  a  grand  variety,  bright  pink 
flowers,  shiny  foliage,  a  Wichuraiana  hybrid, 
suitable  for  climbing  or  as  a  ground  rose. 

W.  H.  Egan,  another  of  the  Dawson 
hybrids,  was  raised  from  R.  rugosa.  It  has 
double  pink  flowers  in  clusters.  The  bush 
is  compact,  foliage  moderately  glossy  and 
very  free  from  insects.  Always  in  flower. 

The  Jackson  Perkins  Company  intro- 
duced Dorothy  Perkins  in  1903;  it  is  pink 
shading  to  white,  and  can  be  described  as  a 
pink  Rambler. 

THE    MIDDLE    ERA 

The  time  between  the  two  famous  groups 
named  above  was  bridged  by  a  number  of 
roses  of  various  types,  important  in  their 
day,  and  of  which  there  is  definite  record  as 
follows : 

Belle  Americaine,  raised  by  Daniel  Boll, 
of  New  York,  in  1837,  and  also  Mme.  Boll, 
H.  R.,  a  grand  rose  and  a  favourite  to-day 
with  many. 


ROSES    OF    AMERICAN    ORIGIN  iyi 

Cornelia  Cook,  very  large,  pure  white  Tea, 
for  years  the  favorite  white  for  forcing,  raised 
by  Anthony  Cook,  of  Baltimore,  Md.,  in  1855. 

Anna  Maria,  Superba,  Mme.  Caroline 
Allen,  Baltimore  Bell  and  Queen  of  the 
Prairies,  all  raised  by  the  late  Mr.  Feast,  of 
Baltimore,  in  1843.  The  two  last-named 
varieties  are  well  known  by  the  people  at 
large  as  hardy  climbers  suitable  for  almost 
any  climate  and  position.  Many  million 
plants  of  these  are  now  in  general  cultivation 
in  every  section  of  this  country. 

Harisons  Yellow,  raised  by  the  Rev. 
Harison,  New  York,  in  1830,  is  well  known 
as  a  lovely  colour  when  in  bloom,  and  as 
hardy  as  an  oak  tree. 

Beauty  of  Greenmount,  1 854 ;  Dr.  Kane,  1856, 
and  Geo.  Peabody,  1857,  au"  raised  by  Jas. 
Pentland,  of  Baltimore. 

Mrs.  Hovey  and  Triumphant,  1850,  two 
good  pillar  varieties,  raised  by  Joshua  Pierce, 
Washington,  D.  C. 

*J antes  Sprunt,  Bengal,  1858,  and  Isabella 
Sprunt,  Yellow  Tea,  1865,  two  good  varieties 
for  many  years;  very  popular;  both  raised  by 
Rev.  James  Sprunt,  Kenansville,  N.  C. 

Mrs.  Degraw,  Bourbon,  a  grand  summer 


172  ROSES 

bedding  variety,  raised  by  Wm.  Burgess, 
Glen  Cove,  L.  L,  1885. 

Marshall  P.  Wilder,  H.  R.,  a  very  beautiful 
variety  and  one  of  the  best  of  its  class,  raised 
and  introduced  by  Ellwanger  &  Barry, 
Rochester,  N.  Y.,  1885,  and  Rosalie,  another 
gem,  by  the  same  firm  in  1884. 

Golden  Gate,  Tea,  by  Mr.  Jones,  of  New 
Orleans,  about  1888. 

American  Beauty.  Though  not  an  Amer- 
ican variety,  yet  the  credit  of  bringing  it  into 
popularity  is  due  to  the  energy  and  foresight 
of  one  firm  in  this  country,  Messrs.  Field 
Bros.,  of  Washington,  D.  C.;  the  correct 
name  of  this  rose  is  Mme.  Ferdinand  Jamain; 
raised  in  France  but  of  no  particular  value 
there. 

America  (Noisette),  raised  by  C.  G.  Page, 
1859,  a  very  nice  climber  but  not  quite  hardy. 

Peter  Henderson  &  Co.  have  introduced 
some  very  beautiful  varieties — they  are: 

Setina,  1859,  a  sport  from  Hermosa,  of 
climbing  habit  and  not  as  widely  planted  as 
its  merits  deserve. 

American  Banner,  1879,  a  striped  form  of 
Bon  Silene,  of  no  great  value,  except  as  a 
novelty. 


Roses  of  various    types  planted   freely  with   herbaceous  perennials   make   a   gorgeous 
show  of  colour  in  June,  and  the  general  effect  is  pretty 


ROSES    OF    AMERICAN    ORIGIN  173 

Sunset,  Tea,  1883,  a  sport  from  Perle  des 
Jardins  and  an  acquisition  to  our  list  of 
forcing  roses,  being  of  a  rich  salmon  shade 
of  orange. 

Dinsmore,  H.  R.,  1886,  very  similar  to 
Mme.  Chas.  Wood,  but  a  better  constitution; 
a  free,  continuous,  blooming  variety  for  sum- 
mer bedding. 

Ruby  Gold,  Tea,  1892,  raised  by  Mr.  T. 
O'Connor,  of  Providence,  R.  I.;  it  has  an 
interesting  history.  Mr.  O'Connor  grafted 
Catherine  Mermet  on  Marechal  Niel,  and 
it  was  from  this  graft  that  the  sport  was 
obtained. 

Jubilee,  H.  P.,  1897,  raised  by  Mr.  M.  H. 
Walsh,  of  Woods  Hole,  Mass.,  from  seed 
of  Victor  Hugo  x  Prince  Camille  de  Rohan. 
Its  brilliant  flaming  crimson?  with  maroon 
shading  and  large  size  ranks  it  among  the 
most  distinct  of  its  class. 

Mr.  John  Cook,  of  Baltimore,  Md.,  has 
given  us  some  really  good  roses  in 

Souvenir  de  Wootton,  1 888,  seedling  of 
Louis  Van  Houtte  X  Bon  Silene,  a  very 
valuable  rose,  deliciously  sweet,  of  large  size, 
bright  cherry  crimson,  very  free  flowering. 

Marion  Dingee,  1892,  seedling  of  Duchess 


174  ROSES 

of  Edinburgh  X  Caserta,  a  valuable  bedding 
rose,  very  free  and  good,  bright  glowing  red. 

Mrs.  Robert  Garrett,  1896,  seedling  of 
Mme.  C.  Testout  X  Sombreuil,  pale  pink, 
very  large  flower  and  very  free — a  noble  rose. 

White  Cochet,  1896,  sport  from  Maman 
Cochet,  and  one  of  the  most  valuable  roses 
ever  introduced  for  summer  use. 

The  following  were  introduced  by  John  N. 
May,  of  Summit,  N.  J.: 

The  Bride,  1885,  a  white  sport  from  Cathe- 
rine Mermet,  and  the  most  beautiful  white 
rose  ever  introduced. 

Brighton  Beauty,  1891,  bright  red,  very 
free  flowering;  as  a  bedding  rose  very  desirable. 

Mrs.  W.  C.  Whitney,  1894,  H.  T.,  beautiful 
clear  deep  pink,  and  the  sweetest  perfume  of 
any  known  rose. 

Mrs.  Pier  font  Morgan,  1895,  sport  from 
Mme.  Cusin,  deeper  in  colour  and  very  much 
larger,  very  sweet  scented. 

Mrs.  Oliver  Ames,  1902,  sport  from  Mme. 
Cusin,  lighter  than  Mrs.  Pierpont  Morgan— 
a  very  prettily  shaded  rose. 

Bridesmaid.  F.  L.  Moore,  Chatham,  N.  J., 
introduced  1892,  a  sport  from  C.  Mermet,  and 
the  most  valuable  pink  rose  in  commerce  to-day. 


ROSES    OF    AMERICAN    ORIGIN  175 

Climbing  Perle,  1890,  by  John  Henderson, 
Flushing,  N.  Y.,  very  valuable  yellow  climber. 

Pearl  Rivers,  1890,  by  Dingee  &  Conard, 
West  Grove,  Pa.,  large  ivory  white,  nice 
form. 

Rainbow,  1891,  by  John  Sievers,  San 
Francisco,  Cal.,  striped  white  and  red,  a 
valuable  bedding  rose,  sport  from  Papa 
Gontier. 

Vick's  Caprice,  1889,  by  James  Vick,  of 
Rochester,  N.  Y.,  a  sport  from  Archduchesse 
d'  Autriche,  variegated  pink  and  white,  large 
size  and  free. 

Waban,  1891,  by  E.  M.  Wood  &  Co., 
Natick,  Mass.,  another  sport  from  C.  Mer- 
met,  but  superseded  by.  Bridesmaid. 

Maid  of  Honour,  1899,  by  Hoffmeister, 
Cincinnati,  O.,  very  similar  to  the  last 
named;  also  a  sport  from  same  variety. 

Admiral  Dewey,  by  John  H.  Taylor,  1899, 
a  very  beautiful  flesh-coloured  sport  of 
Caroline  Testout. 

Lady  Dorothea,  1898,  by  Mr.  John  H. 
Dunlop,  Toronto,  Canada,  a  lovely  rose, 
ground  colour  similar  to  Safrano,  with 
delicate  pink  shading,  large  size,  and  very 
free  flowering. 


176  ROSES 


RECENT   ROSES 


Philip  Breitmeyer's Sons  in  1903  introduced: 

La  Detroit,  fiery  pink,  lighting  up  well  at 
night.  Very  strong  grower  and  a  large  bud. 

Urania,  1905,  by  Walsh,  is  a  hardy  ever- 
blooming  rose;  vigorous  grower,  strong,  stout 
stems,  colour  bright  scarlet  crimson.  Cup- 
shaped  flowers.  Seedling  from  American 
Beauty. 

Wellesley,  a  Hybrid  Tea  raised  by  Alex. 
Montgomery,  1904.  A  rose  for  forcing; 
rich  pink,  large  flower. 

Richmond  (Hybrid  Tea),  raised  by  the 
E.  G.  Hill  Co.,  is  a  competitor  of  Liberty; 
hardy. 

Arcadia  and  Babette  are  Wichuraiana 
hybrids  of  Walsh,  quite  new.  The  former* 
remarkable  in  the  double  crimson  scarlet 
varieties,  and  the  latter  a  double  rose-coloured 
variety  of  the  Rambler  type. 

Doctor  Van  Fleet,  of  Little  Silver,  N.  J.,  is 
credited  with  these: 

Ruby  Queen,  Wichuraiana  X  Queen  Scarlet, 
vigorous,  hardy,  bright,  shining  foliage;  flowers 
quite  double,  three  inches  across,  bright  ruby 
red  with  clear  white  centre  (1897). 


Rosa  setigera,  one  of  the  native  species,  is  well  adapted  for  the   wild   garden. 
It  is  one  of  the  parents  of  the  Prairie  Roses 


ROSES    OF    AMERICAN    ORIGIN  177 

May  Queen,  Wichuraiana  X  Mme.  Degraw. 
Very  vigorous,  canes  ten  to  twenty  feet  long, 
flowers  very  large  and  double;  clear  bright 
pink  (1897). 

Pearl  Queen,  Wichuraiana  X  Mme.  Degraw. 
Vigorous  grower,  long  canes  and  large 
foliage;  flowers  large  and  very  double;  pure 
white  with  blush  centre  (1897). 

Clara  Barton,  Clothilde  Soupert  X  American 
Beauty.  Very  dwarf,  ever-blooming;  flowers 
three  and  one-half  inches  across,  very  double 
and  perfect,  highly  perfumed,  each  bloom 
set  in  a  perfect  rosette  of  green  leaves  (1898). 

New  Century,  Clothilde  Soupert  X  R. 
rugosa  alba.  Entirely  hardy,  fine  rugosa 
foliage;  flowers  three  to  four  inches  across, 
very  double,  clear  light  pink  with  bright  red 
centre,  borne  in  clusters  throughout  summer; 
very  fragrant  (1902). 

Sir  Thomas  Lipton,  Clothilde  Soupert  X  R. 
rugosa  alba.  Similar  to  New  Century  but 
longer  foliage;  flowers  very  double,  pure  white 
and  exceedingly  fragrant.  Opens  out  flat 
like  a  camellia  (1904). 

Magnafrano,  Safrano  x  Magna  Charta. 
Vigorous  and  constant  blooming;  flowers  on 
long  stems,  four  to  five  inches  across,  double 


178  ROSES 

and  perfect;  fine  buds,  bright  rich  crimson 
with  scarlet  shade.  A  magnificent  forcing 
rose  (1898). 

Philadelphia,  Crimson  Rambler  x  Victor 
Hugo.  A  duplicate  of  Crimson  Rambler  but 
rather  more  stocky  in  growth;  flowers  larger, 
more  double,  brighter  crimson,  ten  days 
earlier,  and  better  finished  in  every  way. 
Foliage  more  resistant  to  disease;  forces 
splendidly.  Will  probably  supersede  its 
parent  in  time  (1903). 

Of  these  last  roses  it  is  not  possible  to  do 
more  than  accord  a  mere  mention,  as  their 
actual  merits  are  not  yet  determined.  There 
have  been  a  number  of  other  roses  raised  in 
America,  even  named  and  introduced  to 
commerce,  but  they  as  quickly  passed  away. 
These  have  been  ignored  in  the  present  list; 
the  object  being  rather  to  demonstrate  what 
has  really  been  achieved  by  the  American 
rose  growers.  Now,  much  more  will  un- 
doubtedly be  done  in  the  future,  especially 
along  two  lines,  namely:  (i)  Forcing  va- 
rieties for  cut  flowers  under  glass  in  winter, 
and  (2)  hardy  garden  roses  of  the  modern 
types,  and  other  than  the  Hybrid  Perpetual, 
Hybrid  Tea,  Noisette  and  Tea  groups. 


INDEX 


Air  and  water,  relations 

of,  88. 

Alba  group,  the,  112. 
Alpine  group,  the,  112. 
American  Beauty,  under 

glass,  76,  77,  102. 
American    roses,    list    of 

best,  165. 

Animal     manures    com- 
pared, 31. 
Anthracnose,  61. 
Aphis,  remedies   for,  49. 
April  pruning  for  tender 

roses,  35. 
Arsenate  of  lead  solution, 

66. 
Austrian  Brier  group,  the, 

114. 
Autumn  flower  of  H.  P.'s, 

how  to  induce,  26. 
planting,  19. 
pruning,  41. 
severe,  bad  results  of, 

41. 

under  glass,  89. 
Ayrshire  group,  the,  112. 

Banks,  varieties  for,  139. 
Banksia  group,  the,  113. 
pruning,  46. 


Bark  louse,  the,  50. 
Beds,  edgings  for,  10. 

lower     than     adjacent 
surface,  9. 

on  the  lawn,  making,  8. 

sizes  for,  6. 

when  to  make,  6. 
Benches,  filling  with  soil, 
82. 

quantity  of  soil  for,  77. 

size  of,  109. 

vs.  solid  beds,  77. 
Bengal  group,  the,   113. 

pruning,  46. 
Black  speck,  64. 

how  to  avoid,  94. 

spot  disease,  51. 
Bloom,  to  be  cut,  25. 

periods  of,  120. 
Bone  meal  for  the  com- 
post heap,  80. 
Bottom  heat  for  cuttings, 

103. 
Bourbon  group,  the,  113. 

pruning,  39. 

Boursalt  group,  the,  112. 
Boutonnieres,       varieties 

for,  144. 
Brier  group,  the,  114. 

pruning,  44. 


179 


i8o 


INDEX 


Brier  group,  suckers,  23. 

how  to  tell,  15,  18. 
Budded  roses,  experiment 

with,  1 6. 
objections  to,  16. 
planting,  18. 
vs.  own-root  plants,  14, 

16. 

Buds,  malformed,  varie- 
ties having,  26. 

California,         Southern, 

roses  for,  152. 
Carnations    grown    with 

roses,  92. 
Carrying  over,  95. 

solid  beds  for,  77. 
Cherokee,  rose,  pruning, 

>46. 

Chicago,  roses  for,  150. 
China  group,  the,  113. 

pruning,  46. 
Christmas,  varieties  for, 

143- 
City    gardens,     varieties 

for,   135. 
Classification     of     roses, 

practical,  no. 
Clay  soil  improves  colour, 

Si. 

varieties  for,  147. 
Climate     and     varieties, 

128. 
Climbers,  pruning,  40,  43. 

distance  to  plant,  122. 

time    for   establishing, 

122. 


Climbers,  time  of  flower- 
ing, 122. 

Cloudy  weather,  manag- 
ing the  house  in,  85. 

Colour  best  on  clay  soil, 
81. 

Compost     heap,     spring 
treatment  of,  79. 

Composting  rose  soil,  79. 

Copper    carbonate,    for- 
mula for,  52. 

Cost  of  a  house,  75. 

Covering  tender  roses  for 
winter,  29. 

Cow    manure    for    com- 
posting, 79. 
the  best  fertiliser,  31. 

Crimson    Rambler   as   a 
stock,   17. 

Cultivation,     deep,     not 

good,  22. 
time  for,  23. 
under  glass,  depth  for, 
87. 

Cultural  needs  by  groups, 
112. 

Cut  flowers,  varieties  for, 
142. 

Cutting  and  pruning  at 
same  time,  105. 

Cutting-bench,    the,    97. 

Cuttings,  how  to  make, 

33,  97- 

plants,  setting  out,  34. 
propagation  from,  97, 
rooted,  shifting  on,  99 
rooting,  33. 


INDEX 


181 


Cuttings,  time  for  root- 
ing, 99,  103. 

Damask  group,  the,  115. 
Depth  to  cultivate,  22. 

to  plant,  13. 
Disbudding,   26. 
under  glass,  105. 
when  to  avoid,  27. 
Diseases,    fungous,    etc., 

described,   51. 
Disinfecting  the  benches, 

84,  108. 

Distance  apart  for  Amer- 
ican Beauty,   105. 
to  plant  in  beds,  6,  7. 
under  glass,  83. 
Dormant  planting  of  ten- 
der roses  unsafe,  12. 
Downy  mildew,  58. 
Drainage,  essential,  5. 

how  to  provide,  6. 
Drying  off  potted  plants, 
101. 


Easter,  varieties  for,  143. 

Edging  walks,  varieties 
for,  137. 

Edgings  for  beds,  10. 

Eel  worm,  97. 

English  and  American 
comparisons,  14,  17. 

Established  plants  more 
hardy,  12. 

Even-span  house,  advan- 
tages of,  74. 


Evergreen     group,     the, 

116. 
Exposure  for  rose  garden, 

best,  3. 

February  time  to  prune, 

35- 

Fertiliser  added  to  com- 
post, 80. 
formula,  Prof.  Stuart's, 

95- 

formulas,  31,  32. 
Fertilisers,  30. 
for  amateurs'  use  under 

glass,  95. 

when  to  apply,  31,  32. 
Field-grown   plants   pre- 
ferred, 123. 

Filling  the   benches,  82. 
Firming  the  soil,  19. 
Flower  characters  of  gar- 
den groups,  112. 
Flowers,     faded,    to    be 

removed,  26. 
fine  specimen,  disbud- 
ding for,  26. 
specimen,  growing  for, 

m  ISO- 
time  for  cutting,  25. 

Foliage  features  of  gar- 
den groups,  112. 

Forced  roses,   great   de- 
mand for,  73. 

Forcing      under      glass, 
72. 

Foreground  planting,  va- 
rieties for,  148. 


182 


INDEX 


Fork  better  than  spade, 

22. 
used  for  levelling,  82. 

French  group,  the,   115. 

Frost  in  relation  to  situa- 
tion, 4. 

Fruits,  roses  having  deco- 
rative, 145. 

Fumigation  by  sulphur, 
84,  108. 

Garden  roses,  recom- 
mended, 131. 

Griffiths,  Dr.,  fertiliser 
formula  by,  32. 

Ground  bone  as  fertiliser, 

3i- 
Groups  of  garden  roses, 

no. 
Growth,  beginning  of,  22. 

Habit  of  growth  of  gar- 
den groups,  112. 

Half-climbing  roses,  prun- 
ing, 43- 

Hardiest  races,  the,  122. 

Hardiness  of  budded  and 
own-root  roses,  16. 

Heating  equipment  neces- 
sary, 75. 

for  a  mixed  house,  90. 
pipes,    disposition    of, 

77- 

Hellebore  decoction,  for- 
mula for,  48. 

Hillside,  cost  of  house  for, 
74- 


Houses  for  rose  forcing, 

74- 
Huey,  Dr.  R.,  on  budded 

stock,  28. 
on  protection,  28. 
selections  by,  131. 
Humus   wanted    in   rose 

soils,  9. 
Hybrid  China  group,  the, 

115- 
Hybrid  French  group,  the, 

US- 
Hybrid  Perpetual  group, 

the,  1 1 6,  129. 
Hybrid    Perpetuals,   dis- 
tance for  planting,  7. 

inducing  autumn  flower 
in,  26. 

in  pots,  10 1. 

protected  in  c  o  1  d  re- 
gions, 30. 

pruning,  39,  42. 

soil  for,  9. 

Hybrid  Tea  group,  the, 
117. 

pruning,  42. 

pruning,  time  for,  39. 

Ideal  rose,  unattainable, 
^  127. 

site  for  rose  garden,  3. 
Insect  pests  described,  47. 
Insects  do  slight  damage, 

47- 
in  greenhouses,  killing, 

85. 
water  for,  25. 


INDEX 


Iron   sulphate  as  a  fer- 
tiliser, 32. 
Iron  vs.  wood  house,  75. 

Key   to    garden    groups, 

in. 
Kerosene    emulsion    for 

mildew,  58. 

Late  planting  injured  by 

sun,  20. 
Leaf  blight,  53. 
Leaf-cutter  bee,  51. 
Leaf  hopper,  the,  49. 
Leaf  spot,  63. 
Levelling  after  planting, 

19- 
soil  in  benches,  82. 

Lime    for    the    compost 
heap,  80. 

Lime-sulphur-salt    wash, 
colouring  for,  51. 

Lime  wash,  hot,  formula 
for,  84. 

Locality   and   soil    rela- 
tions, 78. 

Long   Island,   protection 
in,  28. 

Low  ground  and  frost,  4. 

Manetti  suckers,  24. 

suckers,  how  to  tell,  15. 
Manure,  fresh,  for  com- 
posting, 79. 
for  beds  must  be  old, 

10. 
for  n^w  beds,  6. 


Manure,  rotted  for  com- 
^  posting,  79. 
liquid,  24. 
liquid,  for  plants  under 

glass,  93,  94. 
liquid,    for    potted 

plants,  100. 
liquid,  how  to  use,  24. 
where  to  put  it,  10. 
Manuring    under    glass, 

93- 
Masses  of  flower,  varieties 

for,  145. 
Mica  added  to  light  soils, 

81. 

Mildew,  54. 
and  lime  wash,  85. 
prevention  of,  88. 
sulphur  for,  107. 
varieties  liable  to  and 

resistent,  148. 
Missouri,  roses  for,  153. 
Monthly  rose  group,  the, 

US- 
Moss  roses,  pruning,  42. 
Mulch,  object  of,  27. 
removing    in    autumn, 

27. 

summer,  27. 
Mulching   American 

Beauty,  106. 
potted  plants,  100,  101. 
under  glass,  93. 
under  glass  in  spring, 

94. 

Multiflora    group,     the, 
117. 


i84 


INDEX 


Musk  group,  the,  118. 

Native  roses,  pruning,  45. 

New  Jersey,  tender  roses 
in,  154. 

Newly  arrived  plants, 
handling,  n,  13. 

New  York,  one  hundred 
good  roses  for,  155. 

Nitrate  of  soda  as  fer- 
tiliser, 31. 

Noisette  group,  the,  118. 

Ohio  and  Missouri  val- 
leys, roses  for,  151. 

Ontario,  roses  for,  155. 

Oregon,  roses  for,  152. 

Own-root  vs.  budded 
stock,  14,  1 6. 

Paris  green,  how  to  use, 

48. 
Pasture  soils,  comparison 

of,  80. 
Paths,    grass   or   cinders 

for,  7. 

Penzance  group,  the,  114. 
Philadelphia,    protection 

in,  28. 

roses  for,  131. 
Pillar    roses,    protection 

for,  30. 
varieties,  140. 
Pit  for  dormant  roses,  12. 
Planting,  13. 
a  row,  14. 
budded  plants,  18. 


Planting,  depth  for,  13. 
evils  of  wrong,  13. 
from  pots,  19,  83. 
in    benches,    distances 
.  for,  83. 
time  for,  n. 
under  glass,  81. 
Plants,  new,  handling,  n. 
Plunging    potted    plants, 

101. 

Potassium  sulphide  solu- 
tion, 66. 
Pot-grown  plants,  setting 

out,  20. 
Potted  plants,  drying  off, 

101. 

management  of,  100. 
Potting  on  young  plants, 

99. 

Prairie  groups,  the,  118. 
Prickles,  character  of  in 

garden  groups,  112. 
Propagating   house  tem- 
peratures, 98. 
Propagation,  33,  97. 
Protection  for  new  plants, 

12. 

for  newly  planted  ten- 
der roses,  13. 
for  pillar  roses,  30. 
for  standard  plants,  30. 
for  winter,  28. 
from  spring  thaws,  30. 
removing,  29. 
roses  requiring,  28. 
winter,  27. 
Provence  group,  the,  1180 


INDEX 


i85 


Provence  group,  pruning, 

42. 
Pruning     after     autumn 

planting,  19. 
autumn,  41. 
autumn-set  plants,  35. 
bad  for  some  varieties, 

37- 

Bourbons,  39. 
climbers,  40. 
directions,   by  groups, 

112. 

for  carrying  over,  96. 
for  large  flowers,  37. 
for  quality,  38. 
for  quantity,  37. 
how  to  do,  37. 
H.  T.  and  T.,  time  for, 

39- 

potted  H.  P.'s,  101. 

potted  Teas,  101. 

Rugosas,  40.^ 

rules  for  by  classes, 
42. 

strong-growing  varie- 
ties, 37. 

tender  roses,  time  for, 

35- 
weak-growing  varieties, 

40. 

when  best  done,  35. 
while  gathering  flowers, 

.25,  105. 
with      definite     views, 

37- 

Purchase  or  grow  young 
stock?  97. 


Raisers  and  introducers, 

American,  165. 
Rambler   and   Memorial 
roses   of   ten   years, 
166. 

Rambler  group,  the,  117. 
Rosarian's    calendar,    a, 

69. 

Rose  beetle,  the,  47. 
Rose     garden      possible 

everywhere,  126. 
garden,  where  to  make 

a,  3. 

slug,  the,  48. 
Roses,  as  plants  or  flowers, 

124,  130. 

decorative  in  the  gar- 
den, 124. 
easy  to  grow,  5. 
for  warm  light  soils,  10. 
grown  with  carnations, 

92. 

of  the  future,  128. 
recent,  176. 
under  glass,  72. 
varied  uses  for,  124. 
Rot  due  to  deep  planting, 

14. 

Routine  of  work,  22. 
Rugosa  group,  the,  119. 
how  to  plant,  121. 
pruning,  40. 
Rust  disease,  59. 

Sand  for  cuttings,  98. 
Sandy  soil,  varieties  for, 
141. 


1 86 


INDEX 


Scale  insects,  50. 

Scotch  Rose  group,  the, 

114. 
pruning,  45.^ 

Seaside,  varieties  for,  141. 

Seasons  of  flowering,  120. 

Selection  for  special  pur- 
poses (see  under  va- 
rieties). 

Sempervirens  group,  the, 
116. 

Setting  out  cutting  plants, 

34- 
Settling  of  bed,  allow  for, 

9- 

Shade  for  cuttings,  103. 
Shallow  planting,  effects 

of,  14. 
Sheep  manure  for  liquid, 

94. 
Shrubbery,  varieties  for, 

137- 
Site  for  rose  garden,  ideal, 

3- 

should  be  new,  5. 
Soil       adaptations       by 

groups,  112. 
depth  of,   in  benches, 

77- 
depth  of,  in  solid  beds, 

78. 

for  American  Beauty, 

104. 

for  different  classes,  9. 
for  greenhouse,  78. 
for  rose  beds,  5. 
for  young  roses,  103. 


Soil,  heavy,  roses  for,  81. 
light,  roses  for,  81. 
preferences  of  varieties, 

81. 

rich,  importance  of,  78. 
Solid  beds,  filling,  78. 

vs.  benches,  77. 
Soot,    soft    coal,    injury 

from,  25. 

South,  roses  for  the,  129. 
Spade,  when  to  use,  80. 
Spraying   calendar,    out- 
doors, 66. 
Spring  vs.  fall  planting, 

12. 
Stakes,   when   necessary, 

38. 

when  unnecessary,  39. 
Staking  sometimes  neces- 
sary, 21. 

Standards,  difficulties  at- 
tending, 126. 
protected   by   burying, 

3°- 

purposes  of,  130. 
varieties  for  146. 
Starting  up  H.P.'s  in  pots, 

101. 

Teas  in  pots,  100. 
Stock,  Manetti  vs.  brier, 

17- 

the  best,  17. 
Streamers,  when   to   cut 

back,  35. 
Suckers,  due  to  shallow 

planting,  16. 
how  to  know,  15. 


INDEX 


i87 


Suckers,  how  to  remove, 

23- 

how  to  treat,  15. 
told  by  their  foliage,  23. 
where  to  look  for,  23. 
Sulphur,  burning,  84, 108. 

for  mildew,  88,  107. 
Sunshine  a  necessity,  3. 
Sweetbrier     group,     the, 

114. 
Sweetly  scented  varieties, 

149. 

Syringing,  106. 
carried-over  plants,  96. 
for  healthy  foliage,  24. 
in  the  greenhouse,  84, 
88. 

Tea  group,  the,  119,  129. 
Teas  and  Hybrid  Teas, 
distance    for    plant- 
ing, 8. 

hybrid,  etc.,  soil  for,  10. 
in  pots,  100. 
pruning,  39,  46. 
Temperature,  and  varie- 
ties, 91. 
for  American  Beauty, 

106. 
for  plants  in  pots,  100, 

102. 
for  propagating  house, 

under  glass,  87,  88. 
under   glass,    autumn, 

89. 

Tender  roses,  pruning,  46. 


Three-quarter-span 
house,  advantages  of, 

74- 

Thrips  (see  leaf  hopper). 
Time  of  bloom,  1 20. 
Tobacco  smoke  for  aphis, 

107. 
Tonk's  fertiliser  formula, 

32- 

Tools  for  cultivating,  23. 
Trailing   roses,   pruning, 

44- 
Tree     roots,     protection 

from,  5. 
rob  roses,  4. 

Vacation     homes,     roses 

for,  134. 

Varieties    and    tempera- 
tures, 91. 

easily  bought,  159. 
for  a  mixed  house,  90. 
mildew,  resistent,  148. 
mildew,       susceptible, 

149. 
of     American     origin, 

165. 

sweetly  scented,  149. 
the  best,  131. 
Variety  selections: 
for  banks,  139. 

c   boutonnieres,     144. 

"   cemeteries,  140. 

"    Chicago,  150. 

1    Christmas,  143. 

"   city   gardens,    135. 

"   clay  soils,  147. 


INDEX 


Variety  selections: 

for  cut  flowers  in  win- 
ter, 142. 

"    Easter,  143. 

"    edging  walks,   137. 

"    foreground,  148. 

"    fruit  effects,  145. 

"   greenhouse      cut 
flowers,  142. 

"    greenhouse  decora- 
tion, 144. 

"   heavy  soils,  147. 

"    masses    of    flower, 

145- 
Missouri,  153. 

"    New  Jersey,  154. 

"    New     York,      one 
hundred,  155. 

"    Ohio  and  Missouri 
valleys,  151. 

"    Ontario,  155. 

"    Oregon,  152. 

"   pillars,  140. 

"    rose  garden,  131. 

"   sandy  soils,  141. 

"   seaside,  141. 

"    shrubbery,  137. 

"    Southern      Califor- 
nia, 152. 

"    standards,  146. 

"    steep  banks,  139. 

"    vacation        homes, 

134. 

1   verandas,  140. 
"    wild  garden,  138. 
"    winter  cut  flowers, 

142. 


Ventilating  the  house,  85, 

87. 

Ventilation,  84. 

for       potted       plants, 

100. 

in  autumn,  89. 
Verandas,    varieties    for, 
140. 

Ward,  Com.,  selection  by, 

iSS- 
Ward's,  Com.,  protection, 

28. 

Water  as  insecticide,  50. 
for  aphis  and  red  spi- 
der, 25. 
Watering   after   planting 

in  greenhouse,  83. 
American  Beauty,  105. 
before  planting,  20. 
cuttings,  98. 
dormant  plants,  12. 
over  mulch,  27. 
under  glass,  85. 
Whale-oil  soap   solution, 

66. 
When  and  how  to  spray, 

66. 
White    rose    group,    the, 

112. 
Wichuraiana  group,  the, 

1 20. 
Wild  garden,  varieties  for, 

138. 

Wild  roses,  pruning,  45. 
Winds,      must      protect 
from,  4. 


INDEX 


Winter    flower,    varieties 

for,  142. 

protection  (see  protec- 
tion). 

Wire  supports  for  plants 
under   glass,    108. 


Wood    vs.     iron    house, 

75- 

Young  plants,  potting  on, 
99. 


This   book  is  due  on  the   last 
date  stamped  below. 


APR151926 


FEB  23    1938 
FEB  1  6  '40 

DEC  2  01946 
APR  2  01962 


UCD  LIBRARY 

UEJUilo    1973 


UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA  LIBRARY 


